Valve Train "tapping" after rebuild
This afternoon I took the time to drain the temporary coolant and top off the system with distilled and antifreeze. I toke it for a short ride around the neighborhood, sounded fine, even out on the main road accelerating to about 2400 rpm, seemed fine. Turned it off and after about 15 minutes went to get some gas in the car and about 3 minutes into the 10 minute drive I had a fairly loud tapping

Car is hot now so I didn't do anything, it sure sounds as if the noise comes from the driver side valve cover. What are the typical things that could have happened?
Would a rocker nut have backed off the stud?????
These are self aligning, could they get out of alignment????
Could it be related to a lifter issue?? Seems less likely.
The stock valve covers are tight with the new rockers, could that be an issue??? I think that would have been immediate.
Just tossing out ideas, I've got to pull the air pump anyway, so I guess we'll get a look at the valve train to see.
Any idea of what to check and look for are appreciated.
If a rocker poly lock is loose it will spin by hand.
If the rocker stud is loose both the poly lock and the stud both will spin as one by hand......usually the pushrod will have jumped out of the rocker's seat and will be flopping around if this has happened.
Inspect the inside of the valve cover for marks/scuffs from the rockers. look at the rockers also. Let us know what you find.
So I guess I will recheck all those on this side since I'll have it off. God why couldn't it be a bit easier to get the valve covers off! With the injector harness, and other rap it a rocket science to get them off!
I wonder if an after market set would be any easier? Oh well I'll get back after it tomorrow night I guess.
So I guess I will recheck all those on this side since I'll have it off. God why couldn't it be a bit easier to get the valve covers off! With the injector harness, and other rap it a rocket science to get them off!
I wonder if an after market set would be any easier? Oh well I'll get back after it tomorrow night I guess.
Had I know this, I think I could have been talked into saving a couple buck and used a stamped roller tip rocker, even giving up a bit on the performance side.
I put a couple drops of blue loctite on my set screws to keep them from backing out as added insurance.
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I put a couple drops of blue loctite on my set screws to keep them from backing out as added insurance.
As for the loctite, that sounds like a great idea.
I put a couple drops of blue loctite on my set screws to keep them from backing out as added insurance.

Loose feeling rocker is not the same thing as a jam nut or rocker stud being loose. Rockers can seem loose depending on there position on the cam lobes. Remember the lifters work with a cushion of oil in them so they may seem loose but they may still be adjusted properly....assuming they were done correctly the first time you adjusted them...you don't want to go tightening them up again.
Sorry for the confusion but the advice I gave was to check to see if the lock nuts or studs were loose or if anything was hitting the valve covers. Hope this helps.

Loose feeling rocker is not the same thing as a jam nut or rocker stud being loose. Rockers can seem loose depending on there position on the cam lobes. Remember the lifters work with a cushion of oil in them so they may seem loose but they may still be adjusted properly....assuming they were done correctly the first time you adjusted them...you don't want to go tightening them up again.
Sorry for the confusion but the advice I gave was to check to see if the lock nuts or studs were loose or if anything was hitting the valve covers. Hope this helps.
You should also check the underside of the rocker arms to make sure that has been NO contact with the valve spring RETAINER. If there's been any contact anywhere there should be witness marks, usually on the valve cover or the rocker arm itself.
Jake
West Point ROCKS!
You should also check the underside of the rocker arms to make sure that has been NO contact with the valve spring RETAINER. If there's been any contact anywhere there should be witness marks, usually on the valve cover or the rocker arm itself.
Jake
West Point ROCKS!
It looks like potentially what is a problem help, I think the vavle covers with these rockers is very close on clearance and potentially maybe even hitting just a bit. I've included a couple pics for you review.
Now I did some grinding before install to remove drip tabs and even ground a bit of material from the center posts you'll see. but there are a couple marks above where the drip tabs were that I can't remeber if I did during the grinding or not.
In the photo above I think you can see where the nut backed off of #3 intake and left a slight mark just above the drip tab.
So I've installed the rocker and readjusted, then went and snugged a bit more on all the others on that back for safe keeping.
But I don't think I'm going to install these covers, I think I'm going to pick up some aftermarket covers that maybe are 1/8 taller or so just for insurance. If I throw these back on and I've got issue with them just rubbing I'm asking for trouble, and that will **** me off.

Not to mention but with one on and off the paint job that I worked too hard on looks like crap already!
Anyone that can offer a recommendation on a cover that is very close in size, chrome or polished preferred that doesn't break the bank?
More to come!
UPDATE
I had a chance to measure the covers and the center post are 3" to the inside top of the cover, then I put the tape measure between the rockers on the seat for the post and the highest point is the poly nut at about 2 5/8" so I think there is enough room after all, I guess I was just frustrated! I think I'll put loctite on these and then button up this side for now and see how things are.
Last edited by Dolfan; Jun 9, 2009 at 09:08 AM. Reason: addition
The second time I set the set screws, I SET THE SET SCREWS. They make a little EECK sound when you take them that last bit. Some people turn the set screw and nut together the final 1/8th (I think, but maybe 1/4) to make them tight. I also used locktite. Anyway, I'm sure that you will be OK and I am confident that there is no way that you damaged a lifter. Other than the bent rod, there was some dimpling on the bottom of a few aluminum roller rockers. Again, I've done about 10 track days and 1,000s of miles of regular driving since then.
It was really odd. I drove for a week in advance and the 150 miles to Laguna Seca (Mazda) and everything was fine, but on the first track lap, the first rocker came loose. I decided to see if I could get into AAA+ range (100 miles) because it wasn't getting any worse, but about 25 miles later the engine just stopped.
I reinstalled #3 intake and adjusted, checked the entire driver side bank and all others looked good. I did drop a dab of thread lock onto each one for a little insurance, then closed it up.
Cranked it up and all quiet, in fact it is running pretty smooth over all, thanks for the help all!
Yesterday he posted photos of a broken rocker stud! Seems the noise was trying to tell him something.
Jake
West Point ROCKS!
Yesterday he posted photos of a broken rocker stud! Seems the noise was trying to tell him something.
Jake
West Point ROCKS!
















