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Sorry. It turns over strong but it won't crank. I plan to go and purchase a timing light tonight and test the spark. I love this car but my wife is going to kill me if I have to spend a bunch a money to get it working. I just replaced the transmission in it a month ago.
Last edited by Chapindad; Jun 11, 2009 at 11:29 AM.
Reason: grammar
Ok so it's turning over after checking the spark if it's Ok you need to test the resistance on the injectors with a ohm meter also you need to test if they are pulsing or getting a signal. Do you have a FSM they can be a big help in trouble shooting but if you report your trouble people here should be able to get you on the right tract
Here is more of the story that I should have posted first. The car was driving great. I was coming home and had just pulled on to my street when the motor stalled out. I had no warning of anything bad and it was driving great.
I had a similar situation, I pinched the tach wire under the cap, after a few days of driving, the wire shorted to ground.
Have you had the cap off lately ??
Have you checked all fuses ??
Pull a spark plug wire and place the end the exhaust manifold, you should be able to see the spark jump, or hang onto the end and have the wife turn the ignition to crank.
I had a similar situation, I pinched the tach wire under the cap, after a few days of driving, the wire shorted to ground.
Have you had the cap off lately ??
Have you checked all fuses ??
Pull a spark plug wire and place the end the exhaust manifold, you should be able to see the spark jump, or hang onto the end and have the wife turn the ignition to crank.
A fuel pump that is going out can give perfect pressure and still be bad, ask me how I know.
My pump would run for a second or 2 when I turned the key and then die. Looked at the fuel pressure when I turned the key to 'ON' and pressure was fine, didn't notice till I tried to turn it over while I watched the motor(don't know what I thought I might see) and just happened to glance at my fuel guage and it was reading about 10lbs. Turned the key off and then on and fuel pressure went right back up and would drop as I tried to start the car. Called a friend who owns a repair shop and he told me fuel pumps can run overheat and shut down or pump so slow it can't keep up w/car needs.
Sorry to be so long winded, this started as a one liner.
Okay. I have printed off all the information. Looking at the documentation, it looks like a son of a B@tch to replace the pickup coil. Am I going to have to remove the Distributor completely to replace the Module and/or pickup coil? If so then what is the best way to keep from causing myself a huge problem. I did this once on a 72 Firebird and it took me a day to get the teeth lined back up.
After removing the cap, draw a mark on the distributor metal housing in the direction where the rotor tip is pointing.
If you do this, you will hold the timing. All that's left is to get the dist to fully seat.
I tested the pickup coil leads and I am getting zero ohms out of it, so I am guessing this is my problem. I should have a new one today and I will try and replace it over the next few days.