As mentioned for the camber arm mounts.
Dana 36 Question
Le Mans Master
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From: Australia
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Melting Slicks
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From: Poocakes loves teh sausage! N.E. Ohio
I bought a chunk and not one hole is tapped
This thing only has the 2 on each side that are drilled all the way through(Larger ones).Anyone know what thread these are suppose to be tapped?
Le Mans Master
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From: Australia
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Take an 8 X 1.25 bolt and try it in every location. The original bolts are "tri-obal" and there wouldn't be any visible threads maybe for the first 3/16". I would think it difficult to strip them all but if someone has tried to chase the threads with a tap rather than a thread chaser it's very easy to ruin them. About the only way to strip or pull all the threads would be to use a bolt that "bottomed" in the hole and "pulled" all the threads.
There could be a couple methods of repair if they're in fact stripped. Neither is difficult.
There could be a couple methods of repair if they're in fact stripped. Neither is difficult.
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Melting Slicks
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From: Poocakes loves teh sausage! N.E. Ohio
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Was this supposed to be a "new" housing?
What is the diameter of the holes? Are all of the bolt holes the same ID?
An 8 X 1.25 with 75% thread contact would require a bore that is something at 6.8mm. I doubt the housings would be that tight so I'd expect something at 7.3 if the housing is new for the use of the original "tri-obal" self tapping bolts.
My new D44 housings measure 9.2 - 9.3 and the assembly uses 10 X 1.5 hardware so I based my thought "proportionaly" from the 10mm requirement to the 8mm hardware!
You could base your hardware requirements from the diameter of the holes "now"! You would use a bolt with a shoulder near the length of the "thickness" of the "batwing". Preferably a mm or so less! Ream the "batwing" so the shoulder is snug if you're using something greater than 8mm hardware.
Your other alternative if the bores are to large "now" for 8mm hardware would be to use "thread-serts"! That's not a great handicap!
Think it through!
The four holes (two each side) nearest the bearing caps are used only for a "spreader" when assembling the rear! You're not concerned with these bores!
What is the diameter of the holes? Are all of the bolt holes the same ID?
An 8 X 1.25 with 75% thread contact would require a bore that is something at 6.8mm. I doubt the housings would be that tight so I'd expect something at 7.3 if the housing is new for the use of the original "tri-obal" self tapping bolts.
My new D44 housings measure 9.2 - 9.3 and the assembly uses 10 X 1.5 hardware so I based my thought "proportionaly" from the 10mm requirement to the 8mm hardware!
You could base your hardware requirements from the diameter of the holes "now"! You would use a bolt with a shoulder near the length of the "thickness" of the "batwing". Preferably a mm or so less! Ream the "batwing" so the shoulder is snug if you're using something greater than 8mm hardware.
Your other alternative if the bores are to large "now" for 8mm hardware would be to use "thread-serts"! That's not a great handicap!
Think it through!
The four holes (two each side) nearest the bearing caps are used only for a "spreader" when assembling the rear! You're not concerned with these bores!
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2007
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From: Poocakes loves teh sausage! N.E. Ohio
I checked the holes by starting a m8-1.25 tap and it started threading. Nice threads and the bolt starts good. All will be good once I buy a bottom tap. Right now I borrowed a spiral tip from work.
I bought this from someone without noticing the holes.
How would a new housing like this be sent out without the holes tapped?
Rodj and WVZR-1 thanks for the input and info.
I bought this from someone without noticing the holes.
How would a new housing like this be sent out without the holes tapped?
Rodj and WVZR-1 thanks for the input and info.
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On an original build the cover is attached to the differential with a "self-tapping" fastener! Tri-obal is the term used and if you rotate one of the fasteners in your fingers you can feel it's "odd shape"!
When you disassemble yours you can check the "feel" of the original bolts that are used for the build! You might want to use conventional threaded fasteners when you do your build. The original "tri-obal" hardware if cross-threaded could ruin your "fresh work"!!
It sounds like you're going to do well!
When you disassemble yours you can check the "feel" of the original bolts that are used for the build! You might want to use conventional threaded fasteners when you do your build. The original "tri-obal" hardware if cross-threaded could ruin your "fresh work"!!
It sounds like you're going to do well!