Finally, I can get started. I am going to use the same method as Ski when he did his work - leave everything in one thread. Today my goal is to get both heads on and torque the rocker studs down. Too easy, right :nonod: :D Hopefully all will go well. I've included pics of parts I have so far. I still need a 1 pc. seal oil pan and flexplate, pushrods (don't know what length I need, any suggestions??), valve cover, intake, and exhaust gaskets. Wish me luck!


[Modified by dtorc4, 6:46 PM 2/17/2002]

 

Is there a certain kind of Permatex I need to use for the head bolts?

Thanks ski, I will use the RTV. And I double checked on the torque, it is 65-70 lbs.


[Modified by dtorc4, 5:50 PM 2/9/2002]

 

Dtorc4,
I used the RTV stuff called "The Right Stuff" found at AutoZone. It is kinda expensive ~12 bucks for a rather small container, but it has never failed me since a very good mechanic showed me the stuff awhile ago. As for the gaskets, I ordered mine through Summit. It was a Felpro kit and it contained everything I needed and then some. It cost ~125 bucks. Good luck and I will definately be following the thread and if you need anything I am at your disposal! Good Luck and most of all Have Fun! My engine was the first one that I EVER did! Very neat experience. Still having some minor problems (vacuum leaks) but Oh well, Spring is not for a few more months.

 

OK, maybe not a problem, but lets see.

On the block, there are two large coolant holes that run up the intake side between the 1st & 2nd and the 3rd & 4th cylinders. They are about 3/4" dia. On the gasket, the holes are 3/16 dia. But, on the heads, there are NO HOLES AT ALL in these locations. WTF??? :confused:

 

ttt

 

Heads are installed - no problems. Will post pics when I get a new battery for my crappy digital camera. :cheers:

 

gee... is that your bedroom??? now THATS dedication!!!!

looks great! I love the colour of the block. looks :cool:

 

Yup, my bedroom in my apartment (some would call it a townhouse, I'm not so sure :D )

 

if you are building an external balance strokerwith one piece seal, i have a flex plate i'd sell. let me know.

 

Alright!! Got the heads on. I called AFR to verify the lack of cooling passages in the heads. As I thought, that is normal (although it doesn't make much sense to me).

I am trying something a little different and much easier than polishing the runners/plenum/intake. I bought some high temp aluminum color paint and sprayed the runners. Although the casting marks are still there, it adds some brilliance to them. I will paint the plenum and intake to match. Tell me what you think HONESTLY!! :D

John - I need a 153 tooth internally balanced flexplate - I believe. That is what a couple of people have told me. I know its internal, I know its one piece seal. I guess its 153 (anybody else know???). Thanks though.

Here are some pics of engine w/ heads and rockers sitting on studs (not installed) and the painted runners.










BTW, the engine is NOT PINK!!! It is "Chevy Orange". I just have a crappy camera and bad lighting in the room.
[Modified by dtorc4, 6:46 PM 2/17/2002]


[Modified by dtorc4, 3:55 PM 2/19/2002]

 

Quick update - I received my balancer and timing chain today and went to NAPA and bought a pushrod length checker. I will be installing balancer and chain tomorrow and checking pushrod length. Anything I should be looking out for on the chain or balancer install? :cheers:

 

Just a quick question, since your building this thing inside your apartment. I'm guessing that the assembled lump will weigh a little more together, than the bare block did when you brought it in. Do you have an exit plan, here? This isn't the proverbial "boat in the basement" kind of deal, is it?

 

:lol: Yeah, I've thought about that. I'm going to roll it out my back door on the engine stand and load it into the back of my buddies truck so we can take it to his shop for installation. I thought of keeping it at his shop, but I didn't want to bother him with me coming over and working at ungodly hours, etc.

 

I did not install the chain and balancer yet, I figured I should wait to put pushrods in.

Ok, I have a concern. I was checking to see what length pushrods I need (using comp cams Hi-Tech pushrod checker 7702). I found that I cannot push some of the lifters down. And yes, I did rotate the cam so the lobes were not lifting them. This is the case on 7 lifters. WTF is going on? This can't be normal, can it? HELP :crazy:


P.S. - I took out the big pictures so it won't take so much time to load this page. :D


[Modified by dtorc4, 6:47 PM 2/17/2002]

 

TTT

I know there is somebody out there who knows if the lifters are good or not! :(

 

Oh yeah...

When I measured the pushrod length, it came out to be 7.075". Since pushrods only come in .050" increments, should I get a 7.050" or a 7.100"? Thanks. :cheers:

 

Sorry... can't help ya on the lifter question. I would check with the cam and lifter people... I am sure they can help ya.

the runners look nice painted. Your right, not as nice as 15 hours worth of polishing, but gee, it does look good!

 

Doctc4,
Sorry I have not seen your post sooner. But I have to say that the lifters should move freely up and down in the block! Did you have them out to install the cam? Or was the cam already in? As for the length, Mine cam out to be 7.200", but every setup is different. I got mine from Jegs and they had that exact size. Use a black magic marker to *paint* the valve stems. Do NOT roll the engine over with the pushrod checker installed! This will collapse the lifter. You need to find mid lift and here is the easiest way. With pushrod out begin to turn the engine over. Put a dial indicator on lifter #1 you will see it lift up to a max height. Record this height and divide by 2. This is mid lift. Now turn the engine back and obtain that midlift value again. Put your pushrod checker in FULLY closed. install your rocker so that it is 1/2 way across the valve stem. Then start to extend the checker until it JUST makes contact with the RR. Just to make sure you are in the middle of the valve. I then take the RR and *rub* it back and forth across the valve stem to rub the black magic marker off. Then I remove the RR and check position on the valve stem. It should be Dead center on the valve stem. If not then you need to do it all over again. Also take the checker out and record the length. Each turn is .050". This should land you the correct PR length. It worked for me. If you need anything email me.
-jesse

 

ski, do you have to measure at 1/2 lift? I just measured them at zero lift and extended the pushrod up until it came in firm contact w/ the RR, without preloading the lifter. The RRs lined up on the intake side of the valve like they are supposed to (I checked 6 different lifters, some intake, some exhaust). All came out to be 5.5 turns up from bottom on the checker. This would make the pushrod length 7.075. I called Comp cams and they said it is OK to round it up a hair to 7.100. So I guess this is what I am going to go with. If you think the method I used is incorrect/inaccurate, I will surely redo it. Thanks for the help Ski!!! :cheers: :cheers:

 

Here's an update. I ordered Manley 4130 5/16 7.100" heat treated pushrods, Fel-Pro 1256 intake gaskets, a GM neoprene oil pan gasket, some other stuff, too. I have a stock '90 5.7L oil pan on the way, along with an aftermarket 153 tooth flexplate. I forgot to order an oil pan pickup, so I'll have to get that next week. That leaves me to get a chip burned and I think that's about it!!

I think I am going to intall the timing chain and balancer today. Is this the time when I degree the cam, or can I do that at a later time? Do you think I can install the chain/balancer in a couple of hours (I have to work tonight)? Thanks for the help guys! :cheers: