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You may have to pull the engine to install the ATI dampner.
I just noticed that, do they have a hub that I could use, honestly pulling the motor is beyond my ability and free time and I don't have the money right now to pay someone to do it.
Is there another option where the hub and damper are seperate so I can install it without pulling the motor?
From: I have no tolerence for liberals and fools, but sometimes i repeat myself
CI 3-5-7-8-9 Veteran
St. Jude Donor '08
Originally Posted by n1kki6
I just noticed that, do they have a hub that I could use, honestly pulling the motor is beyond my ability and free time and I don't have the money right now to pay someone to do it.
Is there another option where the hub and damper are seperate so I can install it without pulling the motor?
the hub and damper are seperate they bolt together. Use a keyway and some anti-sieze. Get an ARP bolt for the crank
Just talked to the guys at TPIS, sounds like I should be able to just unbolt the headers and lift the engine the few extra inches to get the clearance to get the ATI damper and hub on.
Just talked to the guys at TPIS, sounds like I should be able to just unbolt the headers and lift the engine the few extra inches to get the clearance to get the ATI damper and hub on.
This is getting more and more complicated. Good luck.
Just talked to the guys at TPIS, sounds like I should be able to just unbolt the headers and lift the engine the few extra inches to get the clearance to get the ATI damper and hub on.
I'd replace the seal too. I recently installed an ATI hub on my lt1 but I ended up pulling engine. So I don't know whether I could have gotten damper on the hub. Here's my thread check out pics near end for amount of clearance after hub is installed. Good luck.
Will this ati damper need to be honed at all? I probably wont start on my projects tonight but I am sure by this weekend I will be well under way.
I sent mine to my machinist IOT get it honed and he sent it back saying it was good to go as shipped (factory crank)
So if your crank is good to go for stock hub you may be in luck.
Oh in regards to your spacer question, yes, the ATI spacer should go in unless you have a 1996 with OBD II
Oops sorry I never did mention in this post, its not a stock crank, I did a 383 build. The engine was also internally balanced and the ati damper is a neutral balance, in that case does it matter how I line it up? That could be the other problem, I don't know how the stock one was aligned with the camshaft markings as mentioned earlier and I know after the first time we put it back on I did not align any markings.
I suppose I just need to measure the diameter of the crankshaft, is there a best way to do this?
Any recommendation on the bolt for the crankshaft or should I just get another stock bolt?
If it needs to get honed anyway could I not just purchase a stock hub and damper and get that hub honed?
Last bit of info, the stroke is 3.750, from what I read in another post this should be able to use the stock hub. When it was tuned though the rpm's were raised a bit and the first time it came loose I was just of 6k rpm's and I bumped the rev limiter so the ati is probably still the best choice.
Oops sorry I never did mention in this post, its not a stock crank, I did a 383 build. The engine was also internally balanced and the ati damper is a neutral balance, in that case does it matter how I line it up? That could be the other problem, I don't know how the stock one was aligned with the camshaft markings as mentioned earlier and I know after the first time we put it back on I did not align any markings.
I suppose I just need to measure the diameter of the crankshaft, is there a best way to do this?
Any recommendation on the bolt for the crankshaft or should I just get another stock bolt?
Stock replacement hub should not need honing but is unkeyed. Do you have a vibration issue ???
If it needs to get honed anyway could I not just purchase a stock hub and damper and get that hub honed?
I knew you had aftermarket crank but since you were using stock hub and did not mention having it honed I stated that ; "So if your crank is good to go for stock hub you may be in luck"
The main reason for ATI is better highspeed damping, and keyed hub.
You can always get an aftermarket keyed hub which should fix your problem.
If your not spinning higher than stock, stock damper should be fine.
Good luck
Mike
Last edited by aboatguy; Jun 16, 2009 at 09:35 PM.
I knew you had aftermarket crank but since you were using stock hub and did not mention having it honed I stated that ; "So if your crank is good to go for stock hub you may be in luck"
The main reason for ATI is better highspeed damping, and keyed hub.
You can always get an aftermarket keyed hub which should fix your problem.
If your not spinning higher than stock, stock damper should be fine.
Good luck
Mike
Oops posted just before you, the redline seems to be raise a bit, seems about 6200 but I can check with TPIS from when they did the tune. I am just wonder since I had this problem twice, or even just the first time would that not mean that the stock hub is not sufficient? The first time it did happen above 6k so I suppose right then I should have replaced the hub. Why we didn't was the stock crankshaft bolt had a bent washer when we pulled it off so we assumed the washer had failed and that why the hub shook loose.
I just want to make sure it does not happen again, I will probably start working on it tomorrow night.
Here is what happened to the stock washer, for the replacement bolt I used a grade 8 bolt but it was a bit longer so we put a couple extra washers on, again because at the time we though it was because the washer failed, should I go back to a new stock bolt.
Where would be a good place to get a good hub bolt, can I just go with a strong grade 8 like I did yesterday with some extra washers or should I buy the stock one and washer first to measure it?
Would this hub work, and could I reuse the balancer or should I buy a new one.
From: I have no tolerence for liberals and fools, but sometimes i repeat myself
CI 3-5-7-8-9 Veteran
St. Jude Donor '08
the ATI hub fits the ATI balancer, thats it.
I'm no keyboard commando either. I had the ATI balancer on my 383 LT1 as well. I used an ARP balancer bolt. Once you change to an ATI balancer, the stock washer doesn't work. The ATI unit comes with one
Sounds good. I will get it tore down first and then decide what I am gonna do. Does the pioneer billet steel one work with the stock balancer?
Thanks for all of the help to everyone as well. I can do the work even if it takes a bit of time. I didn't have the car for 2.5 years so I am just a bit anxious. My problems come in with knowing what parts and why to buy and use, but the disassembly and re-assembly I will be fine with.