I am going to start this project tomorrow and was looking for some tips from those of you who have done this. I have the Energy Suspension master kit and plan on lowering my car at the same time. Who has done the poly bushing install and what were the worst parts?

thanks, Bob

*******UPDATE*******

I spent a LONG time getting the spring out. That sucked! I took the spring all the way out because I am installing a lowering kit while I have everything apart. The bolts that hold the spring retainer on were fused to the spring retainer. It cursed and fought those for hours till I gave up and got the air hammer. Pushed 'em right out and didn't hurt the end of the bolt nearly as much as I had feared. Once the spring was out, the rest was easy. As I had feared to lower ball joints are in need of replacement (one of the reasons I put off doing this for 4 months), so I have to order those. I was planning on using the Autozone Lifetime warranty ones, any experience with those out there? I used the drill/propane method of rubber bushing removal, stinky, but efficient. I am going to post a question about lowering kit install also, so if you have done that, please check it out. time to go to bed. 8 hours to remove spring and remove and kinda clean lower control arms.


[Modified by BobMachus, 10:48 PM 2/11/2002]

 

Aboushings- about the worst part for me was removing the old rubber bushings-drill out all the way around them and then they'll press out a lot easier. Also if you're also doing the rear diff cover to frame- press out the metal sleeve not just the rubber inner bushing. Have fun!!!! But you will notice a diff. after; some folk say it was worth it and some don't- I say it was worth it, but it will squeek after enough miles.

 

Hey bob,
I did the complete rear but still havent touched the fronts yet,but still have the pieces I need,so I can help you on the rears.
Most were about the same for install,since 2 pieces and use alot of marine grease.
(this may be a little long)

The rear camber rods/beams from the bottom rearend to the lower knuckles/spindles,were a little tough.With the new bushings installed,they were a little tight to fit in the knuckle to align with the bolt holes.

On one side, I had to grind down the inner sleeve for the bushings because the sleeve was machined a little too tall or long and had some casting ridges around the edge.
Not really a problem though.

The bushings that go into the rear end lower brackets for the camber rod alignment above the springs,kept pushing themselves out of the camber rod just enough where it wouldnt fit inside the brackets.

I ended up using a pry bar to bend the brackets outward a little and then once the camber rods slipped in there and installed the camber alignment bolt, it squashed it back together tightly on assembly.

Most of my work I found tough was the cleaning of the eye holes for the aluminum suspension pieces.Every bushing I popped out of there had this thick white oxided powder that needed to be cleaned,and a dremel tool with a sanding roll took care of that,but it was alot in my case.My stock bushings were so far rotted and gone it caused the metal breakdown to happen.

Cleaning was pretty much the most work.

Also,Since I didnt have a press at home, for removing the GM bushings, I drilled a few holes around the sleeve and sprayed with Pen. oil..then with a 6 inch puller,I locked the puller in a bench vise and inserted the bushing sleeve hole of the doglegs and camber arms between the puller arms, and then turned the puller with a socket and breaker bar until the sleeves popped out.Once the metal sleeves are out the bushings can be pried out with a screwdriver.
Simple home made press.

Dont forget,depending on your kit, the rear end carrier, when you remove the large bushing,you may need to knock the sleeve out.Cut a thin line inside the sleeve with a sawzall or hack saw and pry with a screwdriver...once you bend the sleeve inside enough, it will loosen then pop out.
My bushing kit require that sleeve to come out.
Hope this helps...Im assuming youre going to do the whole car and not just the sway abrs and etc.
:)

 

Oh well-just saw you're in Co. not So cal.-I was going to offer my 20 ton press for your project- I always feel like I'm cheatin' when I use it! Another thought- might as well do the ball joints and u-joints while it's that far apart unless you just recently did those.......

 

I've taken 2-sets of A-arms and the rear carrier apart and have found the best way to remove the old rubber is with a propane torch. After drilling a number of small (1/8") holes, I still had no play in the rubber. I used a large gear puller on the lower A-arms and was able to pop the large rubber bushings out, but still very tough and the gear puller claws leave small gouges on the back face of the openings. The propane torch method works great and prevents any bending of the upper A-arms. The propane at first seems like it's not working, but after about ten minutes of heating and scraping away the burned rubber with a large throw-away screwdriver the whole bushing gets gooey and then just pushes through. I think the drill holes help a little too and leather gloves are recommended!. After finished, just clean off the brown residue with mineral spirits and a little Mothers aluminum polish. A couple of other tid-bits, be careful when drilling the upper A-arms, there's very little space, and you will see some alum filings from the center rod. Also, do not change the upper ball-joints unless strictly needed. The alum. mounting rivits are nearly impossible to remove without damage. :eek:

 

I'm doing the same job, and haven't started the front yet either as well. I found out the hard way those casting ridges where there, when I was trying to put the knuckle and shaft on, the control arm bolts wouldn't go in. Make sure you test and file down all the sleeves before you start putting stuff on, it will save you some hassle.

Jim-K

 

Also, do not change the upper ball-joints unless strictly needed. The alum. mounting rivits are nearly impossible to remove without damage. :eek: [/QUOTE]
Ahhh, well; you just grind and punch those rivets out and the new ball joints come with bolts instead.

 

RE: Rivits on upper ball joints; I can beat on the rivits all day long with a mini-sledge and thay are not willing to budge; (This is with the ball joints already removed and just the rivits left in the aluminum!!!) I tried drilling the steel in the rivits with a small drill bit, but the material must be hardened steel, and I was not able to keep the bit from moving off-center from the punch mark. I decided to just buy new A-arms with new ball joints already installed.

 

Keep the information flowing, I am aboout to embark on this journey myself, and am very interested in the gory details.
Are all your bushings Poly, or did you go with the rubber for the rear Carrier? That area seems to be a subject of controversy.

 

I went with the poly since I wanted them replaced. I originally wanted to go thruout with rubber to soften the noise and ride, but found out that in order to put rubber bushings in the rear control arms, you buy new control arms. I assumed that, (i might be wrong) to get rubber for the camber arms and rear carrier, means buying these parts new as well. This is not cost effective compared to the ~$250 for the poly suspension and sway bar kits.

Jim-K

 

After I drilled some holes into the old rubber bushings, I used a coarse rotary bit on an air die grinder to remove extra material. That really loosened the tension of the old bushings. I then sprayed it with WD-40 and pried the old bushing out with a dull flat blade srewdriver. It went very easy. I'm sure you could use a propane torch to burn the old bushings out but I personally would discourage that method. I'm not a metalurgical engineer, but I can't imagine the heat from a torch being healthy for the aluminum suspension parts.

 

One more thing, get a box of latex gloves and buy a tub of grease thats used for lubing the new poly bushings. Those little tubes that are supplied is a joke. Pack the hell out of ever bushing before you install it. The grease is super sticky and very hard to wash off your hands. Latex gloves are a must.

 

I'd agree that burning old bushings out of alumnium may not be the safest way to do it.

Also, definitely buy extra grease if you haven't already ordered it. It is truly amazing that they give you so little for what the bushings cost you.

Turpentine is great for cleaning the grease of your hands if you don't go with gloves - keep it nearby that stuff is STICKY.

With regard to lowering: The hardest part now aside from reinstalling the spring is removing the rubber pads from the top of the spring. Before you remove them, measure how high the old pads are before you cut em off. That way, you can subtract the difference in the height of the old ones from the height of the new wedges to get work out how much metal to trim off the spring retainers before you reinstall them. If your car doesn't have the new style spring retainers you may want to order a set of those also.

HTH

 

Good luck with the project.
When I did the suspensions on my '68, I let the local
alignment shop do the upper and lower control arms,
then I picked 'em up after work. No muss, no fuss.
on the strut rods and other bushings, I cut off as much
retaining "lip" from the bushings.
Using the new bushing as a size guide, I chose a deep socket
that was just under the size of the inside diameter of the hole.
I then got a socket that matched the size of the outer dimension
of the hole in the suspension part. Get a long bolt or piece of threaded
rod and some washers and nuts and let the bolt do the work.
By the way, I used a lot of spray type lube during the process.
Just an alternative to the torch.
I don't know if the metal in the parts has been heat treated,
but if it has, a torch "might" change the temper of the metal.
Again, good luck.

 

Jim-K,
OK!!! Thanks