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First went to Auto Zone, couldn't get them any more. Went to O'Riellies next, they were now $79 instead of $50 for the cast iron version.
My car has TPIS long-tube headers so there's room to change these out. I just used the old studs, it's a bit tight with that round part sticking out of the transmission but it goes without too much struggling.
I let the front end down off the stands and raised the rear end to assist bleeding. Took about an hour or so before there was a full peddle. Clutch feels much better now
I have read on here, those studs make it almost impossible to get the new cast iron version on. Now there is a little snag I forgot to mention. I used a 1/4" drive deep 1/2" socket (thin wall) and it was still difficult to get the socket in there. Need to take a Dotco and cut-off disc to make room on each ear. That way the socket fits onto the nut without rubbing the slave cylinder. Pics would help show that.
Just changed my slave cylinder on a 96 six speed. Had exhaust off. Don't know if it could be done with exhaust on. Replaced original slave cylinder with cast iron version. Mounting stud length was not an issue. Used a 3/8ths drive, 1/2" socket on an universal joint with two long extensions to remove and install nuts on mounting studs; no problems there.
The easiest and fastest way, IMHO, is to remove the bleeder screw and carefully (6-7 turns) wrap threads with teflon tape and re-install. Empty Master if not already. Using My-T-Vac or similiar, fill thru bleeder screw upwards to the Master so the air naturally escapes. I finally got a firm pedal and it didn't take much time.