I can get my 94 to fire up on starting fluid but that's all. I sounds like it want to start but no go. This car has been off the road for 8 years or so maybe the injectors or stuck and if so can I un stick them at home?. Thanks .

I have fuel at the rails and pulse on the injector connectors.

 

If the fuel rail pressure is good then it does sound like an injector issue. Get with Jon at FIC INJECTORS he'll hook you up with some at a good price. The swap should be quick on a 94.

 

What's the fuel pressure at the rails? I just went through something like this and my fuel pump was toast. Might want to check your fuel pump fuse and relay first.

 

How long has the fuel been sitting did you replace the filter? clean the lines?

 

Yep, my gas sat for about 8 months and I had to drain the tank and replace the pump & filter. The pump probably failed while draining the tank, because it was giving me 45 psi last summer before I parked it, but after my little project this spring I only had 20 psi.

A quick check would be to install a fuel pressure guage and hold the fuel return line shut with a pair of vise grips (not too tight, you'll cut the line) and turn on the ignition. The guage should read about 60 lbs with the return line blocked and the pump running. If the pump can't get over 45 pounds like this, it will never supply the 45 pounds you need to run the car. If it gets to 60 pounds with the return line blocked but still won't hold 45 with the line open, then the regulator probably needs adjusted or replaced.

Don't be scared of changing the fuel pump on these cars, it's easier than changing the oil. And it's about $110 for the pump, strainer, and filter at the chain stores. The filter is on the passenger side, right in front of the fire wall on the bottom of the car, just behind the right front wheel. You'll need a line wrench for the gas line nut, and a box end wrench to hold the filter. The fuel pump is directly under the gas fill cap. Four small torx screws will get the plastic piece out of the way, with the hinged lid still attached. Then pull the rubber spill catcher piece up through the square hole. You'll see 8 or 10 bolt heads. Unscrew those, detach the supply line (top front) return line (right bottom rear) and vapor line (left bottom rear) and pull the fuel pump/float/sending unit assembly out. Pop off the old pump & strainer, pop on the new, put it back together and you're done.

 

Thanks for all the help. I will have to buy a pressure guage. What type should I buy and connect it at the fitting on the rail with the black cap on it?.The tank and pump assembly are both brand new,never had fuel in the tank.This engine is installed in an old El camino, sorry guys I should have mentioned that. I am finishing it up for the owner,he got ill years ago and it just sat in his driveway for about 8 years.I have pressure at the fitting but I don't know how much.The more I crank it the more it's starting to hit like it wants to run.Fires right of with starting fluid

 

That is the fitting you need.

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...ressure+tester

 

Well this changes things a little. What electronics are you running? are the injectors pulsing? is there a signal from the ECM? is the fuel pump getting a signal? ect ect

 

"What electronics are you running? are the injectors pulsing? is there a signal from the ECM? is the fuel pump getting a signal? ect ect"
Painless harness and computer for the 94 LT1.Fuel pump is pumping and noid light says injectors are pulsing.Engine sat for years.

 

Sounds like a nice project hope you get it running

 

Ohm each injector...should be around 16 ohms...'94 was still batch fired (4 injectors at a time are pulsed) if I remember correctly. So that a couple of shorted/ out of range injector coils can "knock out " the other 3 in the group...ECM driver will shut down because of the shorted injector(s)...since you say the tank was empty I'll assume you have new/fresh fuel in it now and that what's in the tank is not old and stale

 

Wow, sounds like a cool project. I hope it goes well. Any special performance enhancements for this LT1?

As for the no start, this is going to sound like pretty basic advice but it would have helped me. If the injectors are pulsing at the right time with the right pressure, and the spark is sparking at the right time, and cam timing is set correctly, are you using hydraulic lifters? I was, and I adjusted the valves with no oil in the lifters. Once I turned the engine over and the lifters filled with oil, they were keeping the valves open, which means no compression. Two cylinders were close enough to fire, but 6 had at least one valve open. So I'd hear the numbers 3&4 fire and think "it wants to start, but it just won't go..." and when I sprayed starting fluid down it would sound even closer, but it just wouldn't start until I backed off all the rockers and adjusted them again.

Maybe you're more on the ball than I was, but it had me frustrated so I thought I'd share in case it helps.

 

Thanks for the tips. I will ohm each injector tomorrow and see what I get. I didn't build the motor so I don't know about the valve adjustment but I was concerned with stuck rings from sitting so long. I will check compression tomorrow as well. Thanks to all.

 

I checked the injector resistance today and they all read 11.9 ohms. does this mean anything?.

 

I think the resistances may vary by year/injector brand. Ask Jon with FIC Injectors about the readings. I was also going to ask what fuel pump are you using with the application and does is support enough GPH/flow for the fuel system. Jon's/ FIC Injectors Link: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/memb...injectors.html

 

since all injectors read the same (11.9 ohms)..I'd guess they're ok electrically...I don't think they would all fail in the same way. I'd be curious what the readings would be w/another VOM. You say you have pulse at the injectors, did you use a noid light ? If you do have pulse at the injectors in my mind you've eliminated no spark/spark timing/no compression/tight valves etc.---since it runs on starting fluid. Seems to me it must be no or low fuel pressure (check it w/gauge while cranking) OR if you have pressure..then whatever is being pumped is not really good fuel.

 

the 94 uses multecs of different design than early years.. A normal 94-96 oe injector is 12ohms. 89-93 16ohms. 88 15ohms and 85-87 14.8 ohms. .. The problematic injectors are the multecs installed 89-92, these are used in ALL gm lines including foreign derivatives.. IMO the PO has a set of clogged or stuck closed injectors from sitting for the few years. A new set is on the way

 

Thanks to Jon's help and injectors the car will start and run, but only for about 5 seconds, then shuts off. I t runs real smooth for those 5 sec though.The injectors were the problem but now any clues as to why it shuts itself off?.

Thanks Jon for the excellent service.

 

that's no good, do you have constant fuel pressure for that 5 secs. make sure the fuel pump is running. If its not that then look into ignition.

 

I bought a pressure gauge and it reads 40-48 on first crank. If I crank it again it goes to 55-65 lbs and if I crank again it keeps going to 75-80 lbs. I am doing some trouble shooting today thanks to Jon's help to resolve this condition. That's high pressure.