Best LT1 mods





The cam, headers & exhaust will really wake up an LT1.
Then the dyno-tune would be the icing on the cake.
Also, give Jon at Fuel Injector Connection a call. The Bosch Design III fuel injectors work. He can work up a good price for you.
Use the "Search" feature here to say what other have said about Jon and his injectors.
Save the Wave!
The results are posted on their site, at least they were when I found them a while back.
Basically here's what they did:
Dynoed a stock LT1 - 293/331
Swapped to some ported heads but still with 1.94/1.50 valves 320/339
Removed MAF screen and installed TPIS air cleaner 327/342
Swapped 48mm to 52mm picked up another 7 fl lbs and 14 HP
So in that sequence, there was a definite power improvement.
Can't argue with 14 HP and 7 ft lbs for only $300 or so cost. I've seen dyno results where over $1,000 was spent on a full exhaust upgrade that only showed that amount of power increase. (i.e. Thunder Chicken, an LT1 "F" body)
I may still have the link to the site and will try to track it down if anyone's interested.
Jake
West Point ROCKS!
The results are posted on their site, at least they were when I found them a while back.
Basically here's what they did:
Dynoed a stock LT1 - 293/331
Swapped to some ported heads but still with 1.94/1.50 valves 320/339
Removed MAF screen and installed TPIS air cleaner 327/342
Swapped 48mm to 52mm picked up another 7 fl lbs and 14 HP
So in that sequence, there was a definite power improvement.
Can't argue with 14 HP and 7 ft lbs for only $300 or so cost. I've seen dyno results where over $1,000 was spent on a full exhaust upgrade that only showed that amount of power increase. (i.e. Thunder Chicken, an LT1 "F" body)
I may still have the link to the site and will try to track it down if anyone's interested.
Jake
West Point ROCKS!
First off, I have no clue what dyno they used but a stock LT-1 will not make 291/331 on a respectable dyno. My bud's stock LT-4 struggled to make 300/300 in stock trim.
291rwhp/331 rwtq is "about" 345hp/400tq at the flywheel, and after driving a few LT-1's in stock trim there is no way they make that kinda of power.
It might be a good atricle in regards to what "possible" gains might be had, but I wouldnt want an uneducated reader to think that's what power there car is making because it isn't........
I think you understand.
My 92 with only a Corsa Catback and SLP cold air setup slapped down 3 runs making 278HP /305 Ftlbs.................. through a A4 .....................with 115k on the clock.
But anyway with the head work and larger valves you would see some good numbers by ditching the stock exhaust / manifolds. However I do see that you want to stay away from that and a cam swap.
I guess at that point you could do a 52mm TB however I doubt you would see much if any real gain for the money without the rest of the combination.
Last edited by 92ZR1WANNABE; Jul 4, 2009 at 03:39 PM.
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
Ok, so if i change the complete exhaust system, and the TB and chip..... can I get say...... 45 more ponies?
Last edited by aboatguy; Jul 5, 2009 at 01:30 PM.
You will see (repeatedly) that LT-x's don't do well with JUST a TB upgrade. It will yeild next to nothing. In fact, your throttle response will "suffer" slightly (maybe so minimal that you wont nice).
the above engine had work done, and therefore, the builders realized that the TB could possibly be their next restriction.
roller rockers seem to be a good upgrade, but you'll end up needing better valve springs etc. This "can" be done with the engine in the car (on y-body) with the right tools, but the F-body cowl panel might get in the way.
headers are relatively expensive, but the two-to-one style of the f-body is definitely resitrictive. "true duals" will yield a better gain.
the cam is a "great upgrade", it's just a nightmare to swap on these engines (i.e. all the components that need to be removed just to access the cam).
here is what I suggest (if you don't want to crack the engine block open for cam etc).
-have the intake manifold ported (a little bit of a "creative" mod) by AI or LE
-have the TB opening ported out to 52/58mm at the same time
-purchase your 52/58mm TB
-get magnum or gold series 1.6:1 rockers "if" you can get away with it while the engine is still in the car
-full length headers (power increase is minimal, but I wouldn't even bother with shorties)
-get a shop to fab up "true duals" 2.5" is stock on y-body lt-x, or go 3"
-Electric water pump (frees up some power)-
-"cold air intake" -do some research to see which one has shown true increases. I believe the ones that replace the stock plastic components with alloy cast pieces have shown increase in the f-body forums.
-hi-flow cats
-dynotune
-all else fails, nitrous seems to be a relatively plainless way of getting decent power
First off, I have no clue what dyno they used but a stock LT-1 will not make 291/331 on a respectable dyno. My bud's stock LT-4 struggled to make 300/300 in stock trim.
291rwhp/331 rwtq is "about" 345hp/400tq at the flywheel, and after driving a few LT-1's in stock trim there is no way they make that kinda of power.
It might be a good atricle in regards to what "possible" gains might be had, but I wouldnt want an uneducated reader to think that's what power there car is making because it isn't........
I think you understand.

Jake
West Point ROCKS!
http://www.corvettemagazine.com/1999/oct99/lt1/ltp1.asp
BTW, my Engine Analyzer Pro simulation programs shows similar results; 12 HP going from 48 to 52 and another 8 HP going from 52 to 58mm.
Jake
West Point ROCKS!
When I moved from a 48mm to a 58mm TB, the engine 'felt" dramatically stronger. It accelerated much stronger/quicker. We're talking Seat Of the Pants.
Why? Due to the larger bore of the 58mm TB, for every incremental movement of my right foot on the accelerator pedal more air - as compared to the 48 mm TB- enters the engine.
Using the same pedal pressure that I had become accustom to when I was running the 48mm TB, the car would blast away from a standing position, like at stop lights, and I felt like Speed Racer. I've posted on this a couple of times before.
It was so dramatic that I finally decided I couldn't live with it, so I traded my BBK 58 mm TB with a Forum member for his 52mm. My car then became much more managable and I was better able to modulate the throttle.
According to a program I have that does such things, the calculated airflow CFM is:
48=564
52=693
58=857
Bore Diameters in inches:
48=1.8897
52=2.0471
58=2.2834
Anyway, this is just info I'm passing along.
Jake
West Point ROCKS!
Another option would be gears and/or a stall converter.

Remember... I have done a lot of head work already... porting, polishing, port matching and 202 valves....
So, any already prefabbed Header, true duel exhaust systems out there?
Last edited by pauldana; Jul 5, 2009 at 10:45 PM.
I think since you've gotten the heads ported/polished/etc. that this would be the oppertune time to install complementary mod's
stall converter, electric water pump, shorter rear-end gears, headers, true duals, intake, Tb... this should be a fun mix of parts.













