C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Can I skip fixing this base porting snafu?

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Old Jul 10, 2009 | 12:48 AM
  #1  
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Default Can I skip fixing this base porting snafu?

In the pic below, you'll see where I was port-matching my Edelbrock base to a 1205 port. This happened when I was radiusing the port ceilings for a smoother transition to the heads. Just before I finished smoothing , I noticed that I'd gone thru the very bottom edge of the injector port(s).

Best I can tell, this won't affect the O-ring seal. That's because I only ground into the floor of these injector ports. I did not remove any of the injector port (cylindrical) walls. IOW, if you look down those ports (where I ground thru), you only see a portion of the very bottom ridge/ring missing.

I placed injectors in those holes so you can see the result. Only the edge of the brown plastic tip is visible thru the hole. Again, the O-ring would sit slightly higher. They should still have an air-tight seal.

Here's a pic:



To repair, I could take to a shop and have them weld the tiny holes. And/or I could even ask for wedges placed on those (and other ports) to aid in air redirection to the heads. (IOW, make little ramps to extend the radius job.)

Or, I could use extreme-high-temp Epoxy for repair and hope it doesn't come loose and fly into the cylinder(s) some day.

Or, I could leave as-is since I doubt any negative affects will come of it.

What's your vote and why? (If you have another idea, please let me know!)
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Old Jul 10, 2009 | 12:56 AM
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What's your vote and why? (If you have another idea, please let me know!)
Cut your fargin fingernails, sheesh!
if the oring seals above the hole leave it alone.
















Last edited by cv67; Jul 10, 2009 at 12:59 AM.
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Old Jul 10, 2009 | 02:16 AM
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Run it if there is enough material around the O-ring seal.....if its paper thin there also I would be more skeptical.

Otherwise go for it and get this project on the road!!

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Old Jul 10, 2009 | 04:26 AM
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since the o-ring seal is above that point, i'd run it, but watch it from the outside.

if there's leaking, after a while, you'd see signs of it. even if under a vacuum, I think some air/fuel vapors would still escape, or seep past and cause dust/dirt to collect.

so, i'd run it.
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Old Jul 11, 2009 | 01:12 AM
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Originally Posted by rpoL98
if there's leaking, after a while, you'd see signs of it. even if under a vacuum, I think some air/fuel vapors would still escape, or seep past and cause dust/dirt to collect.
Your statement above did make me think of something. When making my OP, I was only thinking about the possibility of a vacuum leak -- and that the o-ring seemed positioned well enough to avoid a leak. No big deal.

Now I'm considering the overall pressure inside the runner tubes -- especially at higher rpms and reversion waves. So, the o-rings don't just have to prevent outside air from getting in, they also might have to stand up to pressure trying to push it's way out. Maybe that's what you were thinking above?

Cuisinart suggested using hi-temp Epoxy (like Tony used in his recent miniram project) to seal the holes. But, that could be a trick getting it to grab the surface (or even the hole) w/o protruding thru the hole and preventing correct injector seating.

I might take it to a local cylinder head shop next Tues to see what they think about welding.

Or... since John @ FIC pointed out that w/o injector clips they can be pulled w/o removing the plenum/runners. Replacing an o-ring would be pretty easy.

Still seems like I should just run it.

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Old Jul 11, 2009 | 01:18 AM
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Originally Posted by cuisinartvette
Cut your fargin fingernails, sheesh!
if the oring seals above the hole leave it alone.
Wow! You know...It's not everyone that has the ability to look thru all the complicated subterfuge and see the obvious. You are truly a master of observation.

BTW, the REALLY cool thing is there was a hidden msg here! Upon quoting above, I find this msg..."if the oring seals above the hole leave it alone." But, it was changed to WHITE (colored) text. That's why no one can see it. Clever.
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Old Jul 11, 2009 | 01:25 AM
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Originally Posted by Tony Mamo @ AFR
Run it if there is enough material around the O-ring seal.....if its paper thin there also I would be more skeptical.

Otherwise go for it and get this project on the road!!

Thanks for the feedback, Tony! Had I known you'd see this post, I would have at least finished polishing my (buggered) ports before taking a pic.

You should know I am spending lots of time porting/polishing -- just to take advantage of what you build (and I purchased). Getting into porting/polishing provides me with a new appreciation for the difficulty/complexity of the work you do.

BTW: Your heads do look stupendous. I really can't wait to see how they run!

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Old Jul 11, 2009 | 10:41 AM
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Originally Posted by GREGGPENN
Thanks for the feedback, Tony! Had I known you'd see this post, I would have at least finished polishing my (buggered) ports before taking a pic.

You should know I am spending lots of time porting/polishing -- just to take advantage of what you build (and I purchased). Getting into porting/polishing provides me with a new appreciation for the difficulty/complexity of the work you do.

BTW: Your heads do look stupendous. I really can't wait to see how they run!

I think its going to leak,have it welded,no big deal.
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Old Jul 11, 2009 | 11:17 AM
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My concern would not be of leaking but of that metal breaking off. When you R&R the rail there is quite a lot of force used. If you use it that way be real gentle installing the rail with the injectors on. If it gets jammed a little removing it that metal looks thin enough to bend and/or break.

When I ported mine I didn't do much there. I smoothed the sharp edges, that was it.
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Old Jul 11, 2009 | 12:58 PM
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fix it once and at the best opportune time.
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Old Jul 11, 2009 | 02:53 PM
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you are overthinking this problem. run it.
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Old Jul 11, 2009 | 10:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Aardwolf
My concern would not be of leaking but of that metal breaking off. When you R&R the rail there is quite a lot of force used. If you use it that way be real gentle installing the rail with the injectors on. If it gets jammed a little removing it that metal looks thin enough to bend and/or break.

When I ported mine I didn't do much there. I smoothed the sharp edges, that was it.
I thought about that sliver of metal on the right port (in the pic). Really, I could knock it out w/o changing the situation. The other port is not that thin/weak. And, I don't think there's enough of the bottom seating ring missing for pressure to overcome the sliver anyway. (Over 75% of the bottom rim is still there!)

I did note that you removed material in different areas that me. Your intake ports must sit lower because you removed alot more material at the bottom of your ports. I did not remove any material from the bottom of my ports. To port-match them to 1205's, I had to expand the tops and outer sides.

I also tried to remove material from the outside (vs inside) radiuses. That's suppose to keep air from slamming into outside walls on turns.

Forum members also emphasized that the ceilings of base runners should get the most attention when porting.
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Old Jul 12, 2009 | 12:54 PM
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Originally Posted by GREGGPENN
I thought about that sliver of metal on the right port (in the pic). Really, I could knock it out w/o changing the situation. The other port is not that thin/weak. And, I don't think there's enough of the bottom seating ring missing for pressure to overcome the sliver anyway. (Over 75% of the bottom rim is still there!)

I did note that you removed material in different areas that me. Your intake ports must sit lower because you removed alot more material at the bottom of your ports. I did not remove any material from the bottom of my ports. To port-match them to 1205's, I had to expand the tops and outer sides.

I also tried to remove material from the outside (vs inside) radiuses. That's suppose to keep air from slamming into outside walls on turns.

Forum members also emphasized that the ceilings of base runners should get the most attention when porting.
There is a speed bump on the bottom. But I did spend most of the time with the manifold upside down, working on the top. There is the most airflow at the top, that's why they said to pay attention there. The inside radius tappers up to the top narrowing the port there. The outside radius I made to match the port opening. I didn't want to remove so much there to make a belly in the runner. I didn't think it would be a good idea to make the air curve more. The outside radius did have a kink in it that I smoothed out. I didn't want to make more of an angle in there so I smoothed it the whole way through the runner.
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Old Jul 15, 2009 | 03:05 AM
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Originally Posted by GREGGPENN
I might take it to a local cylinder head shop next Tues to see what they think about welding.
I took it. They said run it. No way they can fix it w/o worsening it. Plus, they agreed I didn't compromise the seal area in the injector bore.

We also noticed I could add silicone sealer around the top edge of each injector hole for a second (back-up) seal. The top of the hole is counter-sunk and fits nicely against the injector base.

Thanks also to you guys -- especially the fingernail suggestion!

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