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Brake master cylinder

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Old Jul 18, 2009 | 10:32 AM
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mkrail@flash.net's Avatar
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Default Brake master cylinder

I need to R&R my brake master cylinder. Anything that I should be aware of? Do I just go to my favorite parts house and get a remfg unit and drop it in? Any issues on bleeding the antilock brakes?

THX
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Old Jul 18, 2009 | 11:35 AM
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^^You'll get lots of opines as to what is the best.

I did a rebuilt unit and three years later it is working fine.

The Plastic cups on top are a real bear to get off the old one AND get onto the new one. I cheated and out gear oil on the o-rings during assembly...but I thought for sure I would break them while trying to get them off.

If the price difference for one WITH the cups is not too high for you, go ahead and get that M/C

There is a special brake bleed sequence for the ABS that does not make sense at first. I know it is different than the standard "Start from the furthest and work your way back" method of old. So pay attention to that...someone will post it here.

There are codes in your computer that need to be reset....since I don't have ABS, I can't tell you how, I do know you need to reset it or it could lead to a hard brake pedal.

The Bleeding process, if you can figure it out (How to, not the sequence), it shouldn't take you more than 20 minutes, start to finish. You need a friend that listens to you. All the brake Bleeder gadgets are unnecessary in my opinion. Gravity bleed will be mentioned...I cannot for the life of me figure out why someone would allow a simple process to be drawn out .....overnight

Dats all I know for now.
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Old Jul 18, 2009 | 03:34 PM
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thx for the info and the heads up on the cups, i might just get the one that comes complete - looks like I will do more looking into it before jumping into it. Any other info would be great.
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Old Jul 19, 2009 | 12:40 AM
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Let me know what price you find on the kit. I ended up with a reman unit because rebuilding it myself would actually cost MORE.
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Old Jul 19, 2009 | 12:54 AM
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Unless you drain all the fluid out of lines should not have to "bleed" the ABS. Just did a full rebuild on one of my cars; changed out fluid by pumping through until new fluid came out.
The M/C needs to be bled on the bench before reinstall.

Originally Posted by jhammons01
....since I don't have ABS, I can't tell you .
Sums it up basically.

Originally Posted by jhammons01
All the brake Bleeder gadgets are unnecessary in my opinion.
Speed bleeders are the best thing since sliced bread.One man bleeding; forget your friend who can listen, do it by yourself.
Gravity bleed; piece of p..s.
Loosen bleeder at rear,pour brake fluid in M/C, open beer, watch fluid level in M/C and beer can,check for new fluid coming out at bleeder,when new fluid appears close bleeder .
Check beer level , do next caliper
10 minutes max for fluid to run from M/C to furtherest bleeder.

Last edited by rodj; Jul 19, 2009 at 08:11 AM.
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Old Jul 19, 2009 | 04:02 AM
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Originally Posted by rodj
Unless you drain all the fluid out of lines should not have to "bleed" the ABS. Just did a full rebuild on one of my cars; changed out fluid by pumping through until new fluid came out.
The M/C needs to be bled on the bench before reinstall.
Yep, its that plain and simple.

Originally Posted by jhammons01

There are codes in your computer that need to be reset....since I don't have ABS, I can't tell you how, I do know you need to reset it or it could lead to a hard brake pedal.
There is no codes to reset, and there is no special ABS bleeding method. There isnt a special method or codes to reset when you flush or bleed the system any other time, so why would there be this time? Follow the GM service manual for the correct order of bleeding.
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