I cant get the top dead center for #1.........I have it marked and it lines up with the #2 cylinder.....what gives......is that the exhaust stroke??? I have rotated it 360' and that ahouls be the compression stroke which is what I want!!!

Whats UP???? :mad :confused: :mad :cry

 

I'm not sure what your problem is, please explain what you're doing. Are you adjusting rockers?

If the Torsion damper is at 0 degrees, and hasn't slipped, you should be at TDC. The crank shaft is on a 1 to 1 rotation with the torsion damper, so if its at 0 degrees, you're guaranteed TDC with an accurate outer ring.

On the other hand, the cam-shaft is on a 2 to 1 roation with the torsion damper, so piston 1 could be in the compression stroke or intake/exhaust stroke when you're at 0 degrees. If you spin it around again to 0 degrees you may have better luck getting the valves to be closed.

If that doesn't work, check the damper to make sure it is in good shape and not seperating. If you put a new one on, make sure its lined up with the key-ways.

Good luck.

 

I am actually just trying to get TDC so I can remover the distributor from the Lower intake base.... changing gaskets, stock engine and cam......... :confused:


[Modified by KNCRSR5R, 7:57 PM 2/13/2002]

 

Hmmm...why do you need to turn the motor to TDC? I think it will just pull off without any second thought to the valve train.

Are you going off a manual or something?

 

It actually doesnt matter where you remove the distributor as long as you make a reference point and NOT turn the engine over at all while its removed and reinstall the distributor and have it facing the same way wherever you made a reference point.

One time I had the rotor tip facing the wiper motor and I scribed a mark there and removed everything, then on reinstall I aligned it back up where it was and it was fine.That preserves the firing order.

For future reference,
Youre going to find that re installing the distributor to align back up is tricky because the oil pump shaft will move and when you reinstall the dist. it will be point off a bit.Sometimes you need a really long screwdriver to turn the shaft down there and turn it back some and try to drop in again.

For example,When you lift the distributor out,it will "catch or stop" and then a slight turn of it will allow it to come out all the way...thats when the shaft turns at times.
Look at the bottom of the dist. and see the shaft area? Then look down inside the intake hole,youll see the shaft itself and how it "catches" with each other.

As long as you can get the rotor tip close to the reference spot where you removed it on reinstall and re set the timing youll be fine.Sometimes you need to turn the flywheel with a big screwdriver to turn the engine a little more by hand to make the rotor align up to #1 if youre dead set on doing it this way since bumping the starter makes it jump too much.

And Of course youll want to reset the timing anyways no matter how close you get.

Making sense now?

:)

 

Hey Thanks Bill.........makes much better since.......I knew that I needed a reference point.....but I might have misread the Haynes manual. I thought that no matter what you did......first you had to have TDC on #1 so you can get it out.......Thanks again!!!! I thought I was going crazy for about an hour there turning the crank over and over trying to get TDC.....LOL....I could have had the dang thing out already!!!! :crazy:

Thas the way it goes I guess...still learning! :flag

 

4 stroke = 720 degrees or 2 turns. I think you're on the beginning of your intake stroke.

I used to do is this way... Hook up a remote starter, and with the key off and the spark plug out and your finger covering the hole, crank the motor until you start to feel pressure. Then check for the line and your TDC.