Please elaborate in more detail on that so others don't go away with a misunderstanding.

Jake

 

I don't want to mislead anyone;

acceptable valve timing covers a pretty wide range. consider that most high performance timing chain sets have three key ways cut into the crank sprocket, 4 degrees advance, "straight up" (zero degrees) and four degrees retard, (eight degrees total) depending on the desired engine performance (advance favors high rpm horsepower, retard promotes low speed torque).

with that said, regardless of whether or not the engine will actually run,
if you manage to fill the cylinder with air and gas, and you certainly will to some extent, and the spark plug fires, combustion will occur. if it occurs with a valve open, you may get a back fire through the intake or exhaust, or it may cause the engine to turn over backwards, but something will happen.

if absolutely nothing happens, its because there is no spark or no gas.

and the simplest thing to check, is to check for spark. thats all I meant to say. check the simple easy things first. spark first, gas second; if both these are present, then look at valve timing.

 

What concerned my was when you wrote "regardless of where you installed the timing chain", while technically correct, if you're only concerned about the "CHAIN", it's the position of the gears, which still have to be correctly positioned in relation to each other. Since so few actually degree in their cams, it boils down to a dot to dot thing. So I didn't want some of the younger guys, just now learning all this stuff, to confused the two.

On both non-Opti and Opti engines that alignment is crucial, assuring that the dots on the gears are in proper alignment. Using the old terminology being "one-tooth off" causes starting and running problems.

On Opti engines, however, another equally crucial issue is the positioning of the different year Optis that trip up so many. For the later year Optis, for example, it's selecting the correct clover-leaf opening that's so crucial.

Just didn't want guys to go away thinking they could just install them any-which-way and still be good to go.

Also, I've looked but couldn't find a timing chain set for my 96 LT1 that has three Woodruff camshaft phasing keyways that will fit under my stock timing chain cover without mods. Mods like having to go to an electric water pump, eliminating the CPS, lots of grinding on the cover, etc. If anyone knows of such a set point me in that direction; thanks.

Sorry to be off-topic with all this; Just trying to help.

Jake

 

Well I changed out my fuel filter, and optispark, and checked for compression and I have at least 150 on each cyllinder I'm checking fuel pressure next. running out of things to change. all spark plugs looked carboned up but, no sign of gas?

 

If I would do another build up, I'd stay with the original timing set up.

Do you guys remember the "duck"?

 

well I have ample fuel and the lights light up when I check for pulse with the computer...any ideas how to get it to top dead center?

 

Sure, I know how to do that, but you've hi-jacked this thread. You should start your own thread and include details on what''s going on.

Jake

 

I bought this "kit" also when I had the LT4 hot cam kit installed on my LT1. The kit comes with what is considered to be a non stock (even for LT4) "heavy duity chain & set of sprockets". Also had new ls7 lifters installed at the same time. Back when I bought it, the timing chain kit was $275.00. That was 40K miles ago.

 

HI little new to the whole LT4 but not to the chevy 350. I am in the process of putting an LT4 in my 91 trans am GTA. I was wondering how any of you actually even used a double roller chain? I have deleted the shaft driven water pump and put an electric on. In doing that i wanted to put a double roller chain on but I can not find any that have splines in the center to drive the opti distributor? Im a little confused? All I can find is the heavy duty LT4 chain which was on it when i took it apart.... any help would be GREAT.

 

If you have a true LT4 the opti is driven from the camshaft's dowel pin, and you can run a conventional double roller if running an e. pump. I'm running a Cloyes 9-3145 double roller.

 

I have an LT1 with a Cloyes Double Roller chain and an OBDII style valve cover (has the provision for the crank sensor) and I didn't have to grind on it at all. Granted my LT1 does not actually have the reluctor so maybe that's the difference.

 

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