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Last time I was into the front of my LT4, I put on a new Opti and installed an electric water pump. I removed all the drive mechanism for the old cam driven pump. The timing chain didn't look too worn so I didn't change it but I noticed that it was only a single roller thickness. Is there anything different, that sets it apart from other small blocks after you get rid of the water-pump drive, that would prevent the installation of a regular double roller & sprocket set? Special part#, or regular small block set, or are LT4's stuck with that single row thing they came with?
Yes you can run a double roller timing set, just make sure it is for a roller block. I'm running a Cloyes 9-3145 double roller timing set.
FYI: You may need to do a small amount of clearancing on the timing cover.
I went with the same timing chain. I dont know why but I had to do a huge amount of clearancing on my 95 timing cover. I even went through on one spot.
Last edited by rickneworleansla; Jul 27, 2009 at 03:31 PM.
I went with the same timing chain. I dont know why but I had to do a huge amount of clearancing on my 95 timing cover. I even went through on one spot.
Wow! Where was the clearancing problem mostly located? At the top side or down near the crank, or just all around? Did it affect the opti mounting?
I replaced the stock single roller timing chain in my lt4 with a gm extreme duty chain. It is also a single roller design , but is noticeably larger than the stock chain. It is a definite upgrade.
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I replaced the stock single roller timing chain in my lt4 with a gm extreme duty chain. It is also a single roller design , but is noticeably larger than the stock chain. It is a definite upgrade.
Shows you what I don't know! I thought the LT4 came with that chain in it. Do you know if the chain that Summit Racing offers is the Extreme duty GM chain, or just a stock LT4 replacement single row?
Shows you what I don't know! I thought the LT4 came with that chain in it. Do you know if the chain that Summit Racing offers is the Extreme duty GM chain, or just a stock LT4 replacement single row?
1996 LT4 is not the same as earlier LT1's which is what I believe all the double roller responders have referred to with their experience..
I have Cloyes double roller, electric water pump, removed reluctor ring, reprogrammed to compensate for removal of reluctor ring..
Wow! Where was the clearancing problem mostly located? At the top side or down near the crank, or just all around? Did it affect the opti mounting?
Everything mounted fine after taking a good bit of metal out of the cover. I would grind then test find, then repeat over and over until it completely cleared. I would turn the motor at the crank to test for clearance. I test fitted without the gasket since it is extremely thin. I figured if it cleared without it I would be good when everything was mounted. The chain around the crank gear is where it was rubbing the most. The bolts holding in the cam retainer plate are also extremely close to hitting the cam timing gear. I didn't clearance the bolt heads but some people do.
Last edited by rickneworleansla; Jul 28, 2009 at 01:41 PM.
Yeah, I pulled the front off mine to put on an electric water pump, when the stock Opti got hosed and I removed all that water pump drive stuff while I was in there. I figured the performance engine would have a big whopper chain on it and was surprised to find such a thin chain! I'd read about people buying a new replacement for their LT4's only to find it had just as much slack in it as the chain they were replacing. Mine didn't look too bad so, being a typical tight azz, I left it in there. The cheap photo cells in my MSD Opti can't respond fast enough above 5500rpm (man, it took me forever to figure that out) so I'll be going back in there some day and want to be ready with the right stuff next time.
I bought my gm extreme duty timing chain set from summit; summit part number NAL-12370835, $249.95 (at the time I bought it) plus $11.95 shipping and handling.
I also replaced the water pump drive assembly, gm part number 12551727; in a stock water pump drive the bearing on the after end of this assembly essentially supports the entire water pump drive and any play will allow the water pump drive shaft to wobble and damage the water pump drive shaft seal on the front of the timing chain cover. Mine was definetely shot at 145,000 miles; your experience may differ.
Oh yeah, I wondered about that thing. Don't they put those in almost everything now? Isn't it required by the computer for accurate timing?
The CPS (CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR) os an OBDII thing. It is used by the computer to trace misfire to a specific cylinder. Has nothing to do with ignition.
It must be programmed out.
The LT4 extreme duty chain is pricey but is plenty strong.
I swapped out my optispark, and re checked my sequence for the plugs to it 4x. I then, try to crank it over and nothing. I swapped out my fuel filter, and ignition control module, and still nothing. I pulled plug 4 and checked for spark it is white not really blue. I was wondering if my timing chain might be off a little preventing it from firing and starting well? Any ideas?
regardless of where you installed the timing chain, assuming you have fuel and spark, the engine will fire, it might not run, but something will happen. If it doesn't fire at all, pull a plug wire and see if you've got spark; then go from there
I have spark, yes the engine tries to run. but, it does not. it sounds like it is not getting gas. I've changed my fuel filter, the fuel pump sounds like it is going, I changed out the ignition control module, new starter. Someone told me that the optispark could be bad? How do I check that?
I went with the same timing chain. I dont know why but I had to do a huge amount of clearancing on my 95 timing cover. I even went through on one spot.
I bought a 3145 for the 388 I building for my 96 LT1, but ended up selling it to a Forum member when I realized the clearance issues. I went with a non-roller CLOYES version (forgot the part #).
I would have MUCH PREFERRED the GM LT4 timing chain set but immediate availability was an issue back in 2006 and I needed to finish the engine in order to beat-up on my nephew's GTO. LOL
I went with the same timing chain. I dont know why but I had to do a huge amount of clearancing on my 95 timing cover. I even went through on one spot.
Yea, Rick, I remember all you and your Dad went through when installing that chain set.
[QUOTE=forrestwa;1575139134]I have spark, yes the engine tries to run. but, it does not. it sounds like it is not getting gas. I've changed my fuel filter, the fuel pump sounds like it is going, I changed out the ignition control module, new starter. Someone told me that the optispark could be bad? How do I check that?[/QUOTE]
Go to SHBOX.COM he's got a Opti test procedure among all the other excellent testing procedures.