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I am going to be switching gears and was wondering how much tourqe/Hp. can the D-36 handle? next question is how hard is it to convert? do I need the entire batwing? does it bolt rite in or are there other problems?
My long term goals is a 400-450 hp. engine, would the posi unit hold up? is there even a diffrence in the posi units between the two?
How strong is the 700R? can it be left alone with the hp I am looking at?
My only experience was setting up a Mopar 9 1/4 with a sure grip posi. I would imagine all clutch type units are close to the same other than the size of the clutch packs?
If your going for 400-450 at the crank through a auto , I would say the D36 will probably hold just fine. You will only be getting about 328-369 to the tires at those levels.
I have heard that D36's will hold roughly 400 hp so it should be good as long as you don't get to wild on drag radials or slicks
As for a 700R4 , dunno if a stock unit will hold that power.
Personally I will probably run my D36 until I break it, then I will swap it would.
If your going for 400-450 at the crank through a auto , I would say the D36 will probably hold just fine. You will only be getting about 328-369 to the tires at those levels.
I have heard that D36's will hold roughly 400 hp so it should be good as long as you don't get to wild on drag radials or slicks
As for a 700R4 , dunno if a stock unit will hold that power.
Personally I will probably run my D36 until I break it, then I will swap it would.
I'm running a 383 in my 85. I'm getting about 390rwhp and 420rwtq. The 700r4 in stock form will not hold up to that HP and TQ. I've learned this first hand. I'm having my tranny rebuilt to handle the torque. As for the dana 36....I've been running 3:73 as long as I've had my 383 and since then I've only had to replace the spider gears. A lesson I've learned always use the water box. Never do a dry burnout with BFG Drag radials 315/35/17). To keep from shattering my rear gears I usually launch at 1500rpm. All done on BFG Drag radials 315/35/17.
You can't go wrong if you upgrade to a dana44 .... I plan to someday
Last edited by rssshen vette; Jul 28, 2009 at 07:44 PM.
44 is best, but if you can't plant the power to the ground with sticky compound or track situations, I would not woory too much. I think if you have the car set up good enough to plant the power, than you got problesms, but most people can easily get HP, the problem is transfering it to the ground.
We installed a 3.70 in a Dana 36 with a 383 stroker, motor about 10 years ago. One pass at the track and the side of the carrier blew out. We removed the carrier installed another new one with the same gear and had the same results. 1 new gear one blown up rear! The caps were pulling out from the torque and blowing the side out! (I may still have some pics of this, but it was ugly).
We then converted to the Dana 44 and had great luck but they are not indestructible. The 44 blew up too and we never new if this possibly was from the half shaft twisting off or if the rear end gave out again. I would personally use the 44 but you'll still have to be careful.
You’ll need the rear wing, the rear and the trans member to change to the 44.
If I remember correctly and it’s been a very long time, there is someone making a cast iron version of this rear end on the west coast, it’s been to long.
You’ll need to change the sprag in the transmission to a hardened one if you don’t you’ll tear this out too! As mentioned above the tranny will not hold up unless you beef it up!
On major difference in the 36 and 44 is the bat wing which on the 44 has two thrust pads built in to it. These pads will help keep pressure on the main caps.
Good luck, I’m sure there may be others that will post more info.
IMHO,
Willcox
Last edited by Willcox Corvette; Jul 28, 2009 at 11:13 PM.
i am running an 85 vette with auto a toughened t700r4 and d36 308 rear supercharged and intercooled 8 psi boost its been that way for the past 3 years and do 11.9 quoarter mile and has run without a problem. however a manual trans will be harder on a diff and that is why manuals came with the d44
Everyone on the forum will tell you to go with a D44
'cept me
unless you can get the power to the ground, I have 2.59's in my vert, until I put in my 3.75's and it burns the tires on stock motor. I don't plan on having much traction with 3.75's and over 400 chp.
If you go to the track, and use DR's then I would think at like 450 of so you might be done soon.
If I could do it over I would have saved my money on gears, and install kit, and bought a d44 with 4.11's in it already. for a little over 1k, almost the same as buying gears, and having them installed. and I got my gears cheap compared to most.
Last edited by pologreen1; Aug 7, 2009 at 12:57 PM.