Autocross Upgrades
Thread Starter
4th Gear
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
From: Pickerington Ohio
Autocross Upgrades
I have a 96 Collectors Edition and Autocross in the Ohio Valley Region SCCA. I run in the BSP class because I have already added thicker Antiroll Bars from VB&P front and rear, an SLP cold air intake, and I am also using Nitto NT01 comp DOT tires. I recently aligned the vehicle as well, dialing in -1.5 camber up front, and -1 camber in rear. I have ordered a lowering kit, but not installed yet. My question is that I would like to maybe upgrade suspension bits and maybe other performance mods and wondering if there are any other C4 autocrossers out there that can share their experiences on things that I should do, or things I shouldn't waste my money on.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 797
Likes: 2
From: Westminster MD
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 9,681
Likes: 3,432
From: Akron Ohio
2025 Corvette of the Year Finalist - Modified
2024 C5 of the Year Winner - Modified
2023 C5 of the Year Finalist - Modified
2022 C5 of the Year Finalist - Modified
St. Jude Donor '09-'10-'11
One of the best things you can do is buy the rear end kit form Banski Motorsports Tom's (forum member astock165) product is top notch and better built than any other kit Ive seen. This heim jointed kit really stiffens up the rear suspension and make the car handle better than you thought! 
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 9,681
Likes: 3,432
From: Akron Ohio
2025 Corvette of the Year Finalist - Modified
2024 C5 of the Year Winner - Modified
2023 C5 of the Year Finalist - Modified
2022 C5 of the Year Finalist - Modified
St. Jude Donor '09-'10-'11
Drifting
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 1,554
Likes: 13
From: Romeoville IL
I've done a little. The ride from the upgrade to poly bushings makes a good difference. Biggest suggestion I have is to print the rulebook and make sure what class you want to stay in.
The autocross forum has more info, and guys who do it all the time.
The autocross forum has more info, and guys who do it all the time.
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 30,845
Likes: 293
From: Boston, Dallas, Detroit, SoCal, back to Boston MA
There's a lot of mods you can do in Street Prepared
It all depends on how far you want to go.
The 335's I run on all 4 corners are legal in SP
You can't touch the longblock, but any intake or engine management system are legal
You can run Penske shocks as well
A full cage stiffens it up.
Take a look at this National car
I'm about to install those, it puts you into SSM, where my supercharged stroker motor is legal.
Top National cars have 600+hp to the ground.
It all depends on how far you want to go.
The 335's I run on all 4 corners are legal in SP
You can't touch the longblock, but any intake or engine management system are legal
You can run Penske shocks as well
A full cage stiffens it up.
Take a look at this National car
One of the best things you can do is buy the rear end kit form Banski Motorsports Tom's (forum member astock165) product is top notch and better built than any other kit Ive seen. This heim jointed kit really stiffens up the rear suspension and make the car handle better than you thought!
Top National cars have 600+hp to the ground.
Safety Car
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 4,290
Likes: 6
From: St Marys GA
Poly bushings will help. Also, if you aren't using 17x11 lightweight wheels on all 4 corners, that would be a big benefit as well. I'd recommend Kumho V710's, as they keep their grip a lot longer than the Hoosier A6. That, and as Bad Karma said, know the rulebook inside and out. Oh, and seat time. No substitute for that.
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 2,350
Likes: 228
From: Northeast FL
Poly bushings will help. Also, if you aren't using 17x11 lightweight wheels on all 4 corners, that would be a big benefit as well. I'd recommend Kumho V710's, as they keep their grip a lot longer than the Hoosier A6. That, and as Bad Karma said, know the rulebook inside and out. Oh, and seat time. No substitute for that.
Seat time makes the most difference assuming you're new to this.And as mentioned above check the autocross road race section and learn the rule book inside and out.
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 30,845
Likes: 293
From: Boston, Dallas, Detroit, SoCal, back to Boston MA
Dedicated BSP cars run offset bushings to get more camber in the front.
Though that might be alot more than what you want to run on the street.
They also run springs that would kill your kidneys.
Though that might be alot more than what you want to run on the street.
They also run springs that would kill your kidneys.
Thread Starter
4th Gear
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
From: Pickerington Ohio
I'm using a set of stock C6 wheels I got for free from my dad. I don't think 335's would work without rubbing unless I do a wheel upgrade too. Is this your car? It's pretty freaking awesome, my compliments. What kind of springs and shocks do you use? I'm thinking that should be my next purchase. Maybe rear camber rods and such as well. Your thoughts? I'd like to keep this a streetable car, but that being said, I don't mind a harsh ride. I'm contemplating QA1 adjustable shocks, and a hyperco front spring. But VB&P has a front spring available as well. Since I am new to this, if I spend what little money I have, I want to make sure it helps. I think one of my biggest problems is front dive under braking. I'm hoping the lowering kit will help with that, but I suspect I still either need more spring, shock, or both.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 5,270
Likes: 3
From: Seattle Area WA
People seem to perfer the Koni's over the QA1s for autox, for drag racing it flips and QA1s are perferred. Of course there are Gary's ("Hardbar") Penskes which would be great. I went cheaper (and they don't have Koni yellows for early C4s) and got the VBP Xtreme (Moracco valving) Bilsteins and I have been pretty pleased with them. They make the ride pretty stiff though regardless of the springs. Check the AutoX forum for people who do it as more than a casual thing.
Racer
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 327
Likes: 0
I do alot of autox in either a CSP miata or BSP C4, and it's amazing how competitive these cars can be. You are thinking in the right direction, get more grip, since you probably have more power than you can keep hooked up. There is less drama with either A6's or V710's, allowing you to stay focused on the line. I'm running C5 magnesium wheels (think LIGHT) with 295 fr/315 r, and have more understeer than I like. I wish I had 315's all around like brian. I just bought the vb&p front spring, but haven't installed it yet. Ed
Race Director
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 11,671
Likes: 20
From: Lake Wylie SC
Small note: Keep an eye on your rear wheel bearings as mine had to be replaced after 2 years of auto X. Beware, it's also an addicting sport that cost as much as crack or whatever dope is out there. I quit when SCCA put cars in BSP that I could not compete with. Too political.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 1,172
Likes: 9
From: '88 TPI L98/HotCam Powell, Ohio
Hi Rokgod,
What part of Ohio? I'll be at the NASA event at Mid Ohio August 14-16th racing/instructing. You should come check it out or better yet, enter! The cheap way is to sign up for "Hyperdrive". It costs $59 and you get 30 minutes on track in your car w/ an instructor (as fast as you want/feel comfortable to go) and a 30 minute classroom session. Since you are already an Autocrosser you may want to sign up for a full day Friday, or Sat and Sun. or all 3 in HPDE1 for the first time even w/ your experience.
Let me know if you're interested and I'll hook you up w/ a free 1 yr. NASA membership ($45). Link:
http://www.nasagreatlakes.com/
FWIW I run VBP Extreme springs, 32/26 sways, revalved Bilsteins, poly bushings w/ all stock control arms. My Data Aq. shows me consistantly hitting 1.8-1.9 g's. (A few over 2 g's before she really breaks loose
)
Cheers,
Matt Carlyle
NASA #26 PTA/TTA
What part of Ohio? I'll be at the NASA event at Mid Ohio August 14-16th racing/instructing. You should come check it out or better yet, enter! The cheap way is to sign up for "Hyperdrive". It costs $59 and you get 30 minutes on track in your car w/ an instructor (as fast as you want/feel comfortable to go) and a 30 minute classroom session. Since you are already an Autocrosser you may want to sign up for a full day Friday, or Sat and Sun. or all 3 in HPDE1 for the first time even w/ your experience.
Let me know if you're interested and I'll hook you up w/ a free 1 yr. NASA membership ($45). Link:
http://www.nasagreatlakes.com/
FWIW I run VBP Extreme springs, 32/26 sways, revalved Bilsteins, poly bushings w/ all stock control arms. My Data Aq. shows me consistantly hitting 1.8-1.9 g's. (A few over 2 g's before she really breaks loose
)Cheers,
Matt Carlyle
NASA #26 PTA/TTA
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 30,845
Likes: 293
From: Boston, Dallas, Detroit, SoCal, back to Boston MA
All that would up is that a lot of people are staying home!
Here's a thread on it, LONG THREAD, lot's of BS too
http://sccaforums.com/forums/1/371816/ShowThread.aspx
The bottom line though is just to have FUN.
I've show up to autox's on my worn out all-season tires.
I wasn't the fastest, but I didn't care.
It's nice to get the car out there and have some legal fun with it.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 2,350
Likes: 228
From: Northeast FL
I'm using a set of stock C6 wheels I got for free from my dad. I don't think 335's would work without rubbing unless I do a wheel upgrade too. Is this your car? It's pretty freaking awesome, my compliments. What kind of springs and shocks do you use? I'm thinking that should be my next purchase. Maybe rear camber rods and such as well. Your thoughts? I'd like to keep this a streetable car, but that being said, I don't mind a harsh ride. I'm contemplating QA1 adjustable shocks, and a hyperco front spring. But VB&P has a front spring available as well. Since I am new to this, if I spend what little money I have, I want to make sure it helps. I think one of my biggest problems is front dive under braking. I'm hoping the lowering kit will help with that, but I suspect I still either need more spring, shock, or both.
I used to run the Maracca valved Bilsteins but switched to QA1 double adjustables this year. Took care of the nose dive you mention. And the ride isn't nearly as harsh. (It's an autocross / track only car so no street driving for comparison but some pit areas are pretty rough and the QA1s don't seem to break my kidneys as much).
Try talking to Paul at Van Steel for a spring / shock set up. You need to have pieces that compliment each other. He seems to know what he's doing and doesn't just sell you stuff to make comission on it.
http://www.vansteel.com/
Most of all have fun!
2nd Gear
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
Poly bushings will help. Also, if you aren't using 17x11 lightweight wheels on all 4 corners, that would be a big benefit as well. I'd recommend Kumho V710's, as they keep their grip a lot longer than the Hoosier A6. That, and as Bad Karma said, know the rulebook inside and out. Oh, and seat time. No substitute for that.