'96 park brake disable
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Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 79
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From: Concord Township Ohio
'96 park brake disable
I'm trying to disable the parking brake auto adjuster per the manual so I can replace my rear brake pads. The manual pics are not good and I can't see where your supposed to hold the drive pawl. Plus the hole they are talking about to install the nail or drift to hold it seems to be on the opposite side where the pawl is. Its probably simple but I can't figure it out. HELP :chevy :flag
Racer
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 393
Likes: 1
From: Houston TX
Re: '96 park brake disable (crewzenLT4)
I would recommend not changing your rear pads per the manual. I remove the caliper and bracket together and then just swap the pads. The first time you do this will kind of suck as the caliper bracket bolts have loc-tite. But to change them this way only requires removing two bolts on each side and a little time manuevering the new pads in.
BTW I have change my pads using this method at least 5 times with no ill effects.
Jason
BTW I have change my pads using this method at least 5 times with no ill effects.
Jason
Drifting
Joined: May 1999
Posts: 1,697
Likes: 1
From: Joliet IL
Re: '96 park brake disable (crewzenLT4)
I would recommend not changing your rear pads per the manual. I remove the caliper and bracket together and then just swap the pads. The first time you do this will kind of suck as the caliper bracket bolts have loc-tite. But to change them this way only requires removing two bolts on each side and a little time manuevering the new pads in.
BTW I have change my pads using this method at least 5 times with no ill effects.
BTW I have change my pads using this method at least 5 times with no ill effects.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 799
Likes: 1
From: Fremont CA
Re: '96 park brake disable (crewzenLT4)
Yeah, the manual sucks. If I remember correctly (that may be difficult :) ) you can also disengage the drive pawl by pressing the release button(?) and then put a nail in the hole. Yes, the hole is to the rear of the assembly. I used a flat head screwdriver to push the arm (which holds the brake cable) down.
When I replaced my rear brakes, I just used a c-clamp to compress the caliper piston. Don't overflow the master cylinder! I only had to disengage the auto adjuster to remove the parking brake cables so I could drop the driveshaft.
I hope this helps!
When I replaced my rear brakes, I just used a c-clamp to compress the caliper piston. Don't overflow the master cylinder! I only had to disengage the auto adjuster to remove the parking brake cables so I could drop the driveshaft.
I hope this helps!
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 3,198
Likes: 2
From: Northern CA
Re: '96 park brake disable (jsaunde2)
You could do it that way, or do it the way I did. I just removed one bolt holding the caliper to the bracket. Then swing the caliper away from the rotor and swap the pads. I didn't have to mess with the parking brake (just don't set the brake), if I remember correctly.
PS. There are lots of Jasons in this thread. :crazy:
[Modified by JasonL, 1:11 PM 2/15/2002]
PS. There are lots of Jasons in this thread. :crazy:
[Modified by JasonL, 1:11 PM 2/15/2002]
Safety Car
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 4,212
Likes: 10
From: Sun City West Az
Re: '96 park brake disable (crewzenLT4)
Go with the first recommendation as it is a real breeze if you remove the calipar mounting bracket as 1 unit. That gives you easy access to the pads. Crack the bleed screw while forcing the old pad into the caliper piston. Once the pad bottoms out, close the bleeder and remove the old pads. Use a little locktite on the caliper bracket mounting bolts when you reinstall them.
