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I'm changing wires on my 1989 coupe stock 350. I'm having trouble accessing the passenger side front two plugs. I had no trouble doing the driver side but I can't get to the two plugs in front on the passenger side. Do I need to remove something to get to these two plugs? Thanks for your help.
The old wires are being replaced if you trash them its no big deal, try grabing the boots with a long set of needle nose give it a little twist and pull. They make boot pliers that are for removing the wires also get a set it will help. To avoid this problem when installing the new wires you can use just a small amount of di-electric grease on the clip inside the boot.
Last edited by floridamale; Aug 1, 2009 at 07:39 AM.
The old wires are being replaced if you trash them its no big deal, try grabing the boots with a long set of needle nose give it a little twist and pull. They make boot pliers that are for removing the wires also get a set it will help. To avoid this problem when installing the new wires you can use just a small amount of di-electric grease on the clip inside the boot.
Also a wobble socket extender (about $10) from Harbor Freight or other vendors will help you get in there with your wratchet & socket.
Hmm, I have an 89 and didn't have any problems with the plugs. I do think the wire holders that are bolted on the passenger side are a pain to remove. For some reason, it is hard to get the socket to stay flush with the bolt while you are turning it. I like keeping the wires routed as stock. I had to pull them off cause I am painting the valve covers and replacing the gaskets.
There is a wire holder thing on the back of the passenger head. I just bent the metal piece back so I could pull the wires out.
What spark plugs are you going with? I put in the stock AC Delco plugs in, and a month later I noticed the nut on them were all rusted. I'm gonna swap them out with NGK V-power plugs.
Be sure you order the O.E.M. wire looms and holders, too. Might as well do the job right while you're in there. Plus your new wires won't get singed from exhaust header heat.
You can order them online from Mid-America Motorworks (MAM).
Don't forget the anti-seize compound for your spark plugs (aluminum heads) if you're swapping them out, too.
Be sure you order the O.E.M. wire looms and holders, too. Might as well do the job right while you're in there. Plus your new wires won't get singed from exhaust header heat.
You can order them online from Mid-America Motorworks (MAM).
Don't forget the anti-seize compound for your spark plugs (aluminum heads) if you're swapping them out, too.
If your just changing wires, yank em off-who cares if they break. But, getting the plugs is a PITA-until you know the trick; use a wooble extender like stated above and go in from behind the tire and underneath the splashguard.
If your just changing wires, yank em off-who cares if they break. But, getting the plugs is a PITA-until you know the trick; use a wooble extender like stated above and go in from behind the tire and underneath the splashguard.
If I were going through all the trouble to change the wires, I'd do the plugs, too.
You'll get it! Just takes patience or someone with small hands!
And do one plug wire at a time so you won't cross-wire your engine. It also helps to avoid having distractingly beautiful and mechanically curious slims around you while you're working....
Hey, my assistant didn't look like her. Good thing, I'd never finish my project. Ok, finished plugs and wires today. Removed the wheel well splash guards. Purchased an articulating socket and was able to access cylinders 2&4...those were the tough ones. The right tools help. Next...I'll attempt replacing injectors. Is that one of those projects you start and kick yourself for not paying someone to do it?
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