Went to start the car after a 3 month layup and it fired, ran for less than 2 seconds and died. Tried a few more times and nothing. Next day same thing-ran for 2 seconds then died. Now it will only crank but won't start or fire at all.

I pulled a couple of plugs and there is good spark. The plugs are just slightly moist, not bone dry and light brown as they are after normal running.

I hear a click from the fuel tank area when I turn the key but no hum although I never noticed hearing the fuel pump in the past.

When I press the stem in the Schrader valve on the right fuel rail nothing comes out even with the key turned to 'run' position. Should fuel come out when the key is on?

Is the fuel pump fused in the panel or near the pump? Is there a fuel pump relay?

Thanks in advance for your help

By the way - I checked for codes - there are none, just groups of 12s although the SES Light stays on as long as the key is in run position (engine not running).

Additional info
The fuel pump fuse in the fuse block is good so I checked for power to the connector that is next to the filler neck. I assume this is the pump power. I get nothing with a test light jumping all combinations of the 3 terminals in the connector. There is another fuse listed that is located in the block behind the DIC I guess my next move is dash disassembly unless someone can look at the symptoms and tell me a simple solution.

 

There is a 10 amp fuse marked FP in the fuse block on the right end of the dash. When you turn on the ignition the fuel pump runs for 2 seconds and will run again if the ECM receives timing pulses from the distributor and/or if the oil pressure switch sees more than 4 psi. The fuel pump does have a relay and it is located to the right of the brake master cylinder. It is the rear relay on the firewall, the front relay is the OD relay. With the ignition off, apply 12v to terminal G on the ALDL connector (by your right knee when in the drivers seat), this applies power to the fuel pump and you should hear the pump run and you should read 35-42 psi pressure on the shrader valve at the end of the right fuel rail. Terminal G is the bottom left most terminal.

 

Does the fact that there is no fuel at the schrader valve with the key either on or off mean that the pump is not running? I would think that the 2 seconds of pump operation when the key is turned on would bring fuel to that point. Also, no amount of cranking brings fuel to the schrader.
Does the fact that there is spark indicate the presence of timing pulses from the distributor? I'm just trying to eliminate all te reasons for the fuel pump not running
Thanks

 

Just did one more test. Tried cranking the engine with a test light clipped to the connector at the filler neck. There is power when cranking and the power goes off about 1 second after I release the key. So it looks as if I have power as far as the top of the tank and everything is working properly up to that point. Sounding more and more like the fuel pump.
Any other opinions?

 

Well if you applied 12 volts to the G terminal on the ALDL as jfb indicated that bypasses the entire fuel pump circuitry...the fuel pump should run until you disconnect it, if it doesn't, well time for a new fuel pump!

And you should get a fuel pressure guage if you're going to continue working on you car.

 

I had a similar problem when I let my car sit for 8 months while I was in Afghanistan. There is one more thing that you can do before purchasing a new fuel pump. I found the connector on the inside of the top plate of the sending unit had come apart and was destroyed. I did all the troubleshooting that all this great people on this forum have told you to do. I soldered the wires that were inside the connector to the pins coming from the top connector of the sending unit top plate. That fixed my problem and I've been driving the car for two years since with no issues. If you have any more questions just let me know and I'll be happy to help.

 

My car is a 87 coupe.

 

I did the terminal G thing and was greeted by silence from the back of the car. Looks like it is the pump. I will buy a fuel pressure gauge when I buy the new pump.

On my '81 (carbureted) I have a fuel pressure gauge inline just ahead of the carb. I'm sure there must be a gauge I can leave in place on the schrader valve. Is this something to consider or are there any reasons to not leave a gauge in place on an injected motor?

 

I will make sure to check the connections first before buying a new pump. This is a 21 year old car with 150,000 on it and from what I can tell I am still looking at the original pump. The mount ring and bolts don't look as if they have ever been worked on. Thanks for the heads up.

 

Putting 12v on the G terminal actually connects to the fuel pump motor through the fuel pump relay contacts. It is possible that the relay contacts aren't making connection or that the plug and socket at the fuel tank filler aren't making connection too. I would try jumping 12v to the tan/wh wire at the connector at the fuel tank first before buying a fuel pump.

 

Relays are inexpensive also.

 

Using a test light I have determined that there is power at the connector back at the filler neck. Am I correct in assuming that with power at this plug, if the pump were good it should run?

 

pull the sending unit/pump assy out and check power at the pump itself while a buddy positions the ignition to the on position or you jump it. It's really not that difficult and if you determine that is a bad fuel pump, you already have it out and ready to go. Pull the cover, a few hoses, couple of connectors and the mount bolts and she's out. I remember that once I had to do it on a subway parking lot after she left me stranded again. I was so FREAKING PISSED.

 

Please submerge the pump in something if you're going to do this.

 

Did you fix it yet?