I recently changed the starter in my car due to it not starting up after the car gets hot. Unfortunately with the new starter I'm having the same problem. I bought a rebuilt cheapo Autozone starter and was wondering if I should take it back and try another starter or if there is anything else it could possibly be? The symptoms are that the car starts fine when cold but if I drive around and get it up to operating temp and shut it off it won't start again. Nothing happens at all when I turn the key and I have to wait about an hour or so for the car to cool down before it will start again.

 

Check the battery cables and connections. Be sure you're getting a good 12 volts to the starter.

 

It could be a bad starter.

When I put long tube headers on my 86' I also installed a generic ministarter. I never could get it shimmed right, so I put on a NAPA 1988+ corvette starter (factory ministarter). That one started the car properly, but the bendix would not retract fast enough, so it would grind after the engine fired. I took that back and got a second NAPA starter. The second unit cranked a little slower than the original, huge 1986 starter, but I thought that was because it was a ministarter. It got worse and worse over time, and developed your symptom of no hot start. I finally took it back, and on the test bench it sounded aweful! NAPA honored the lifetime warranty, and gave me a third starter, and I put a heat shield wrap on it for extra protection. The third starter has been great and spins the motor quickly wether the engine is hot or cold. I made a small video if the engine starting with 200 degree water and oil so you can see if your starter is spinning as fast as it should. PM me if you want me to send you the video.

 

I returned it and got a new starter last night. Put the sucker on and go figure this one needs shims, the other two didn't. It was late after the install and I needed to get to bed... Oh well, I'll take it off when I get home from work today and reinstall it with shims. Heat wrap might be a good idea, thanks square, this thing sits right by the headers and does take a lot of heat. Cross my fingers I hope this one is better than the last one.

 

The saga continues....

So far I have been through 3 starters, a battery and have gone through and checked all my grounds and wires coming from the battery and leading to the starter, yet I'm still having problems. The problem has become more sporadic now, sometimes the starter cranks like a dog, sometimes I get nothing when I turn the key, and on occasion it will fire up normal. Could this be a problem caused by one of the relays or maybe a faulty ignition switch? I have new plugs, wires, distributor and a fairly new ignition control module and am pretty sure I can rule those out. I'm really thinking this may be a starter relay or ingition switch... am I on the right track here or way off base?

 

When nothing happens, are you getting 12 volts to the small wire on the starter when the key is turned to start?

 

You obviously have not hit the problem by throwing all those parts at it. You are actually going to have to make some measurements and see where you are loosing voltage as PAUL suggested. But I will bet when it does not “turn over” there is no voltage to the starter solenoid.

I do not have the specific wiring for the 87 but I think you need it at this point, or be advised of what and where to look at. You will have to diagnose it when its not working. Bringing out some wire connections using long wires might be necessary to have quick and easy access to measurement points.

I would think you have a neutral switch, ignition switch and bad connections to deal with. And possibly start inhibit relay or VATS to consider. Intermittent problems are hard to find sometimes you have to get creative in troubleshooting, but changing parts is obviously not working.

 

Is the security light flashing during the no-start problem?, if so the correct key resistance isn't being seen.

 

Been fighting that problem with my 95. I found a bad start interupt relay on mine, so bad that it allowed the motor to turn over at times without the clutch pushed in. I went over the entire start system with a test light and ended up changing the relay, starter, cleaned all cables, checked ignition switch and thought I had it figured out. Took it to Bowling Green from Nashville, stopped at rest area just south of there and it wouldn't fire. Wouldn't turn over. A few men in a Ford dually helped push it off and we went on to the museum where I parked next to the road on the side of the cafe where the hill is. Got done, rolled it off again and went on home. I had heard that the key could get worn so we stopped and had another one made for 21 dollars. That didn't help and the guy in the dept. said he never saw a key go bad its the security stuff inside the column key switch that wears out. I am fixing to try a VATS bypass to see if that was the problem. This is not a fun problem to have...good luck.

 

I have a 88. I had some of the start no start issues. I tried key pellet by pass. Did not repair problem. I replaced ignition switch with new key as I read a service bullentin that switch wires go bad. No help. Check neutral/park switch, bypassed starter interupt relay and then finaly came across a post where a guy with same problems bought VATS modual bypass and install in his ECM. Purchased this from PCMforless.com. Installed the same and have not had start/ no start problem since. Think it was coincidence?

 

I also have been having starter problems or at least I think thats what it is. If you have seen my "alarm issues" thread dont bother reading any further. Here are the footnotes as of now..

Washed car, dad triggered alarm while wiping car down, then dad tried starting car while alarm was going off, car will not start. When you turn key starter just spins engine doesn't turn over. Took starter off (twice) had it tested and saw the bedix come out and spin. Ordered new starter from Auto Zone to try it...have set alarm again and had it go off so i'm ruling out VATS. Now the variable - got a new flywheel & clutch in the car with about 75 miles on car since pick up. Flywheel has a nick on 1 tooth when I looked. Im hoping the starter solves my problem.

Any other suggestions on what this problem may be, starter related?

 

Hey guys,
The security light is not flashing when I try to turn it over. In a change of events the car will not turn over at all now (hot or cold). I'm thinking I have a gremlin somewhere in the wiring between the starter and the battery as there is no power getting to the starter and when there was it was very low.

For the record the only parts I've thrown at this problem are the starter and battery. I had replaced plugs, wires, distrubutor and ignition module prior to this problem occuring.

Anyway, I'm gonna have to go through it with a meter I guess and try and pin point where the problem is.

EDIT:
I was thinking about it and this problem did not start occuring untill about 2 weeks ago when I replaced my master and slave cylinders for my clutch. In the process I had to take the battery out to get to the master and when I put it back it is when I started having the "no turing over when the car was hot problem". I didn't have it start acting sporadically untill I put a new battery in, after that then I put the old battery back in and now it doesn't turn over period. I'm thinking maybe there is a bad wire somewhere and the removal / reinstallation of the battery is what caused it to come loose or whatever is happening. Anyway. like I said I'm gonna try to chase it down with a meter and taking some measurements.