Passive keyless entry
Long story short, replace the module. It's a 99.9999999999% chance that is what it is. Hope you have an FSM or it cam be a real bear to find all the dash parts and pads you'll need to remove to get to the module. Good luck and feel free to ask any ?'s you might have.

-Dave


Long story short, replace the module. It's a 99.9999999999% chance that is what it is. Hope you have an FSM or it cam be a real bear to find all the dash parts and pads you'll need to remove to get to the module. Good luck and feel free to ask any ?'s you might have.

-Dave


I would suggest a different and much easier and less expensive solution.
Your door ajar switch(es) have gone bad (electrically).
Oddly enough, when they fail electrically (short out internally, usually due to water) they indicate to the PKE/CCM that the door is open, which causes the door locks to cycle. Even more odd is occasionally, this sudden 'signal' that the door is open, can cause the hatch switch, which is on the door, to energize, popping the hatch.
The reason the PKE system is not working now is since the door ajar switch isn't working right, the PKE/CCM doesn't know the door has gone from being closed to being open and then closed again ( basically, it's out-of-sync).
Simple test -- get in car, close door, turn on key (don't start engine), turn on radio, turn off key and remove, radio should continue to play, open door -- radio should go off? if not, door switch is toast !!
Other test is the 'door ajar' light on the dash -- does it go on when the door is open? If not, door switch is toast!!
Other way to test is within the FSM, for the CCM, is the ability to have the CCM display its 'inputs', which can show the 'state' of the door switches...
BTW, how do I know this, cause our 94 did the same thing when we got it 5+ yrs ago, but after switch replacement (a couple of times due to bad switches), all was well with the PKE system.
good news is the door switches can be replaced right through their hole, without having to take the door apart.
Buy them from GM or NAPA, but test them first (some new ones stick or are questionable in their construction). Only use vaseline to lube, other products swell the plastic and make any sticking worse.
BTW, if you have the FSM, the procedure for replacement is in there, if not, post back and I'll type it out for you...
Lastly, you might need to reset everything to restore full functionallity (i.e. pull negative battery terminal for a bit).
Last edited by theadmiral94; Aug 16, 2009 at 11:22 PM.
Not trying to start an argument Admiral, as I have read many many threads that you have assisted people with and you are very intelligent with these things
.A good lesson for all of us. Remember to check all possiblities before spending big bucks on a part that might not be the issue.

-Dave
Turns out my driver side door ajar switch is not working.
I had no idea this switch was tied to my PKE system.
These threads are an invaluable source of troubleshooting information.
Thank you so much for your input guys.

Scott
Last edited by SGAL1; Jan 15, 2010 at 09:27 PM.
However, the hatch thing has me baffled. On 2 separate times while traveling a highway speeds, the hatch suddenly popped opened. This happened several months apart. I was going to adjust the actual locking mechanism at the hatch, but now wonder if I have also solved the popping hatch issue? How are the two related?
If I have violated some protocol about establishing a separate post, please correct me.
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
When i replaced it the orignal screws would not catch any threads in the door so my switch sits loose in the door has anyone else experienced this problem and should i get longer screws?
When i replaced it the orignal screws would not catch any threads in the door so my switch sits loose in the door has anyone else experienced this problem and should i get longer screws?








