Rear end
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 3,014
Likes: 18
From: Raleigh, NC
There are some things you can do. Summers Brothers Racing makes some super heavy duty stub axles that would probably live under that kind of power. Some steel or chromoly half shafts would probably live as well. If you put in a new carrier from Toms Differentials, you'd have a pretty stout independent set up.
If you dead hook it on a clutch drop, under full power, I still think you'd probably break something. I think it'll hold up as long as you are resonable with it though.
If you dead hook it on a clutch drop, under full power, I still think you'd probably break something. I think it'll hold up as long as you are resonable with it though.
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 30,837
Likes: 289
From: Boston, Dallas, Detroit, SoCal, back to Boston MA
There are some things you can do. Summers Brothers Racing makes some super heavy duty stub axles that would probably live under that kind of power. Some steel or chromoly half shafts would probably live as well. If you put in a new carrier from Toms Differentials, you'd have a pretty stout independent set up.
If you dead hook it on a clutch drop, under full power, I still think you'd probably break something. I think it'll hold up as long as you are resonable with it though.
If you dead hook it on a clutch drop, under full power, I still think you'd probably break something. I think it'll hold up as long as you are resonable with it though.
Hopefully it will hold together.
I'm be going road racing so I want to keep the IRS
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 3,277
Likes: 32
From: Mission Viejo California
How much does one of these setups run when it's all said and done?
Also, isn't there another manufacturer of aftermaket case? Is it neuman car creations or something like that? I checked the tom's site and it says 2010 eta.
Also, isn't there another manufacturer of aftermaket case? Is it neuman car creations or something like that? I checked the tom's site and it says 2010 eta.
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 30,837
Likes: 289
From: Boston, Dallas, Detroit, SoCal, back to Boston MA
The Newman rear, which does NOT bolt up to our cars is around $4-#5k
I just ordered the 31 spline subaxles @ $1,300
New guts for the rear ~$600
but that doesn't keep you from snapping off the front of the diff where the batwing connects.
There's a C4 in my tuner's shop that just did that.
The C3 stuff can be built to take it, after you stuff a 12bolt in and spend $4k
I just ordered the 31 spline subaxles @ $1,300
New guts for the rear ~$600
but that doesn't keep you from snapping off the front of the diff where the batwing connects.
There's a C4 in my tuner's shop that just did that.
The C3 stuff can be built to take it, after you stuff a 12bolt in and spend $4k
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 3,014
Likes: 18
From: Raleigh, NC
There are some home brew solutions to the nose snapping issue. If there is a cage in the car, supporting the nose of the case with an extension of the cage is a good option. I can also picture a way to support the nose of the case using the bat wing mounts, but I haven't really pursued it.
Another option is to remove the inner stub axles, outer stub axles, and half shafts; then replace the entire assembly with a CV joint. That still doesn't solve the case issue, but it might help to solve the problems outboard of the case. I don't know of anyone that has done this, but I think it would be possible.
Another option is to remove the inner stub axles, outer stub axles, and half shafts; then replace the entire assembly with a CV joint. That still doesn't solve the case issue, but it might help to solve the problems outboard of the case. I don't know of anyone that has done this, but I think it would be possible.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 1,277
Likes: 275
From: Leo IN
Interesting thoughts. Thanks for the ideas!
So.... Something that ran through my head was using a Moser M9 centre section with something like http://www.pstds.com/critical_link_drive_shafts.htm for the half shafts and drive shaft.
Will have to ask about Toms Differentials.
If you can't tell, I want IRS but I want it as darn near bullet proof as possible.
-- Joe
So.... Something that ran through my head was using a Moser M9 centre section with something like http://www.pstds.com/critical_link_drive_shafts.htm for the half shafts and drive shaft.
Will have to ask about Toms Differentials.
If you can't tell, I want IRS but I want it as darn near bullet proof as possible.
-- Joe
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Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 30,837
Likes: 289
From: Boston, Dallas, Detroit, SoCal, back to Boston MA
There are some home brew solutions to the nose snapping issue. If there is a cage in the car, supporting the nose of the case with an extension of the cage is a good option. I can also picture a way to support the nose of the case using the bat wing mounts, but I haven't really pursued it.
Another option is to remove the inner stub axles, outer stub axles, and half shafts; then replace the entire assembly with a CV joint. That still doesn't solve the case issue, but it might help to solve the problems outboard of the case. I don't know of anyone that has done this, but I think it would be possible.
Another option is to remove the inner stub axles, outer stub axles, and half shafts; then replace the entire assembly with a CV joint. That still doesn't solve the case issue, but it might help to solve the problems outboard of the case. I don't know of anyone that has done this, but I think it would be possible.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 3,022
Likes: 3
From: Chandler Arizona
I've heard, from an old school c4 owner, that at one time there was a company that use to make an IRS ford 9" that was suppose to be "bullet proof". I haven't even taken the necessary steps to research this. But it does sound like a pretty cool option.
Although a live-axle rear-end is fun, I still prefer the IRS in the vette' myself.
I also was told by Bill (zfdoc.com) that you can extend the bump stops to prevent the axles from over-extending past fully horizontal. I guess he know's of a few c4 owners (none cf members) that run consistent 1/4 mile times with serious small blocks (in excess of 800lb/tq with NOS or FI) that use this method, and the IRS seems to live.
Although a live-axle rear-end is fun, I still prefer the IRS in the vette' myself.
I also was told by Bill (zfdoc.com) that you can extend the bump stops to prevent the axles from over-extending past fully horizontal. I guess he know's of a few c4 owners (none cf members) that run consistent 1/4 mile times with serious small blocks (in excess of 800lb/tq with NOS or FI) that use this method, and the IRS seems to live.
Safety Car
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 3,525
Likes: 2
From: Houston TX
I have the extended bump stops, as well as the cradle to prevent ripping the D44 apart. I used to break on a yearly basis (average), but have not had issues in the last ~5 years. Knocking on wood.... 
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 3,022
Likes: 3
From: Chandler Arizona
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 30,837
Likes: 289
From: Boston, Dallas, Detroit, SoCal, back to Boston MA
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 1,277
Likes: 275
From: Leo IN
Are you referring to http://www.dtepowertrain.com/dte_c5_diff_strut.htm? I have not seen anything for the C4....
-- Joe
-- Joe
