C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

rear 1/4 panel replacement

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Old Aug 17, 2009 | 04:30 AM
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Default rear 1/4 panel replacement

I was wondering if anyone has done this and what is involved in doin it? basically the both sides and replacing it as a complete section.
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Old Aug 17, 2009 | 07:26 PM
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Hey Jeff it's a little time consuming but here goes. Remove the rear bumper naturally also the gas lid and plastic piece it bolts to. You also need to pop the rear hatch and remove the rubber weatherstripping around it. The rear inner fenderwells come off also and antenna. There is 1 rivet on the flat back part where the rear bumper bolts to that must be drilled out (near back left corner of the gas tank lid) You will need a very flat chisel or putty knife or wide gasket scraper to break the bonded 1/4 panel off the bonding strips. It is bonded together around the base of the rear hatch where the weatherstripping would sit. And on the left side of the gas door. It also bonds along the top side of the 1/4 panel where it curves. There is a small bonding strip right behind the door. Here is where it gets a little tricky. You need to make a small pie cut in the halo right where the point of the rear hatch window is. If you look close you can see the small lip of the top of the quarter panel tucked underneath the halo piece that needs to be popped out with the putty knife or whatever. If the old 1/4 is allready damaged you might just be able to pop it off with your hands by pulling on it then wiggle it a little at the front and the lip might pop at the halo.Sand off the adhesive on the bonding strips and test fit the new 1/4 see how it aligns with the door before rebonding it to the strips. Body shops sell the new adhesive in a caulking tube. It has 2 parts adhesive and hardner. When you pierce the tube in both places and screw on the tip place it in the caulk gun and when you squeeze it mixes both together at once. Lay a nice thick bead on the strips then set your panel on and press not too hard you don't want to squeeze out all the adhesive. Remember to pop a new rivet in the back to help the alignment. After it all sets up then you can re glass the small pie cut back into the halo panel. Pipe
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Old Aug 17, 2009 | 07:56 PM
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Pipe gave a super description. One thing you need to do is, be sure the the hatch glass has an even gap all around before you bond it all together.
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Old Aug 18, 2009 | 07:42 AM
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i have this book - the pics are not the greatest, but the info will suffice if you study the text and photos in detail. overall, not a bad publication...

http://www.glas-ra.com/v6.html


Last edited by Joe C; Aug 18, 2009 at 07:49 AM.
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Old Dec 4, 2010 | 03:05 AM
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I know this is an old thread, but a heat gun does wonders , specially round the halo and the hatch weather strip area, did both of mine, the first , this way and the 2nd with a heat gun, cut the time in half and all the old glue came off like rubber.
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Old Dec 4, 2010 | 08:33 AM
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Originally Posted by oldalaskaman
I know this is an old thread, but a heat gun does wonders , specially round the halo and the hatch weather strip area, did both of mine, the first , this way and the 2nd with a heat gun, cut the time in half and all the old glue came off like rubber.
Thanks but I patched the spoiler holes in my 1/4 panels.
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Old Dec 4, 2010 | 01:08 PM
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Heard you put a "cut" a line (in the center about an inch high)in the halo to assist the lip in coming out from under it, some people error by cutting the quarter panels lip OFF that goes under the halo.
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Old Dec 4, 2010 | 09:21 PM
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just apply heat to it and work it back and forth, cut about 4"
' below the halo and use that to work it with, doesnt damage the halo, It will blister the paint if youre not carefull
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