Select Ride Control Help
Thread Starter
Advanced
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 80
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From: Birmingham AL
Select Ride Control Help
Getting code 13,14,32
Have checked some threads on this which were very helpful.
C4Cruiser posted
code 13 Left rear time out ( possible bad actuator)
code 14 Right front time out (same)
code 32 Right Front out of position (maybe broken gear on shock rod)
Z07 freak posted
C4cruiser's FX3 is correct except out of position code = bad actuator and time out codes = problem with the shock
I checked the front actuators by feeling them turn back and forth when the ignition is turned on the left and the right actuator seem the same.
So if Z07freak is right I have 2 bad shocks and not 2 bad actuators. Want to get clarification before I buy shocks.
Any help greatly appreciated.
Have checked some threads on this which were very helpful.
C4Cruiser posted
code 13 Left rear time out ( possible bad actuator)
code 14 Right front time out (same)
code 32 Right Front out of position (maybe broken gear on shock rod)
Z07 freak posted
C4cruiser's FX3 is correct except out of position code = bad actuator and time out codes = problem with the shock
I checked the front actuators by feeling them turn back and forth when the ignition is turned on the left and the right actuator seem the same.
So if Z07freak is right I have 2 bad shocks and not 2 bad actuators. Want to get clarification before I buy shocks.
Any help greatly appreciated.
Race Director
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 10,383
Likes: 4
Pop the actuators off the shocks and eyeball them.
Turn the shock's gear with your thumb and forefinger if it spins with no stops the shock needs rebuilding.
Any gear tooth damage will be immediately obvious.
Bilstien will rebuild the shocks cheaper than and as good as new. Captain Z will rebuild the actuators better than new.
If CaptainZCNC were a forum sponsor I'd link you up. (He may be I just don't know and it's an easy google for you.)
Turn the shock's gear with your thumb and forefinger if it spins with no stops the shock needs rebuilding.
Any gear tooth damage will be immediately obvious.
Bilstien will rebuild the shocks cheaper than and as good as new. Captain Z will rebuild the actuators better than new.
If CaptainZCNC were a forum sponsor I'd link you up. (He may be I just don't know and it's an easy google for you.)
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 1999
Posts: 3,261
Likes: 9
From: sonoma ca
Pop the actuators off the shocks and eyeball them.
Turn the shock's gear with your thumb and forefinger if it spins with no stops the shock needs rebuilding.
Any gear tooth damage will be immediately obvious.
Bilstien will rebuild the shocks cheaper than and as good as new. Captain Z will rebuild the actuators better than new.
If CaptainZCNC were a forum sponsor I'd link you up. (He may be I just don't know and it's an easy google for you.)
Turn the shock's gear with your thumb and forefinger if it spins with no stops the shock needs rebuilding.
Any gear tooth damage will be immediately obvious.
Bilstien will rebuild the shocks cheaper than and as good as new. Captain Z will rebuild the actuators better than new.
If CaptainZCNC were a forum sponsor I'd link you up. (He may be I just don't know and it's an easy google for you.)
http://www.captainzcnc.com/
Thread Starter
Advanced
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 80
Likes: 0
From: Birmingham AL
I contacted CaptainZ. If I need shocks I will have to buy new because I'm using a friends lift and want be able to leave the car until the rebuilt shocks are returned.
Will check out tomorrow and keep you posted.
Thank you
Will check out tomorrow and keep you posted.
Thank you
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 7,706
Likes: 485
From: Everett WA
C4 of Year Finalist (appearance mods) 2019
If your 91 is the same as my 95, then here is where you need to be careful. Each of the actuators has a pig tail on it that ends in a connector that connects the actuator into the car's wiring harness. The front connection is very easy to see however the rear is a bit trickier. If you follow the actuator wire you will see that it disapears into the frame of the car. If you gently pull on the pig tail the wire will pull out (there is some slack in the wire) and you will see the connector. Once you disconnect the actuator from the wire harness you muct be very careful not to allow the harness wire to slip back into the frame or you will not be able to get it when you want to hook back up your replacement actuator
Race Director
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 10,383
Likes: 4
Two bolts hold the top of the rear shock to the frame. The bottom bolt for the shock is obvious. The actuator is inside the frame. Keep a twist tie handy so you can loop the harness and let the end of the tie hang out of the hole while you've got the actuator off.
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 2,240
Likes: 42
From: Baltimore, MD USA
You should be able to manually rotate the small gear pinned to the shock rod 160 degrees.
If you can rotate it further than 160 degrees, the bottom of the small gear has a stop and it usually cracks off.
Captain Z sells a replacement gear for around $20.00. He includes a new roll pin.
Here's a picture from his site.
If you can rotate it further than 160 degrees, the bottom of the small gear has a stop and it usually cracks off.
Captain Z sells a replacement gear for around $20.00. He includes a new roll pin.
Here's a picture from his site.
Last edited by Hooked on Vettes; Aug 20, 2009 at 08:43 PM.
Thread Starter
Advanced
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 80
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From: Birmingham AL
Thank you
Thanks guys with your help a caveman could do this. I really appreciate the help 
The actuator are on the way to CaptainZ . Gears completely gone from the front actuator, back one looks OK. Gear on top of shocks looks good and rotates from stop to stop. So I assume the shocks are goods. Is there any other way to test the shocks?
Thanks again
The actuator are on the way to CaptainZ . Gears completely gone from the front actuator, back one looks OK. Gear on top of shocks looks good and rotates from stop to stop. So I assume the shocks are goods. Is there any other way to test the shocks?
Thanks again
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 2,240
Likes: 42
From: Baltimore, MD USA
Don't forget you must clear the codes after you make any changes or you may be looking at an old trouble code.
You ground Pin C to Pin A on the diag. connector and turn the ignition on just like when you're pulling the codes. Then as any codes are displayed, remove the jumper. Connect the jumper for 2 seconds then remove it. Connect the jumper for 2 seconds then remove it. Connect the jumper for 2 seconds then remove it. Turn the ignition off.
The process to clear the codes is primitive and the 2 second interval is critical or the codes won't clear. You may have to do it a couple of times untill you get the hang of it.
As far as testing the shocks you should be able to turn the shock rod gear 160 degrees with minimal resistance.
With the shock absorber removed from the vehicle, turn the gear on the shock rod all the way in one direction and compress the shock rod. Then turn the gear to the 80 degree position and compress the shock rod. Then turn the gear to the other extreme 160 degree position and compress the shock rod. In each position you should feel a difference in the force it takes to compress the shock rod.
You ground Pin C to Pin A on the diag. connector and turn the ignition on just like when you're pulling the codes. Then as any codes are displayed, remove the jumper. Connect the jumper for 2 seconds then remove it. Connect the jumper for 2 seconds then remove it. Connect the jumper for 2 seconds then remove it. Turn the ignition off.
The process to clear the codes is primitive and the 2 second interval is critical or the codes won't clear. You may have to do it a couple of times untill you get the hang of it.
As far as testing the shocks you should be able to turn the shock rod gear 160 degrees with minimal resistance.
With the shock absorber removed from the vehicle, turn the gear on the shock rod all the way in one direction and compress the shock rod. Then turn the gear to the 80 degree position and compress the shock rod. Then turn the gear to the other extreme 160 degree position and compress the shock rod. In each position you should feel a difference in the force it takes to compress the shock rod.
Last edited by Hooked on Vettes; Aug 20, 2009 at 09:08 PM.
Thread Starter
Advanced
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 80
Likes: 0
From: Birmingham AL
Still need a little help
I received the actuators back from Captain Z what a great forum member to do business with. Reinstalled actuators not having any luck removing codes or Service Ride Control light.
Once the code flashes for the third time I shorted the c connector for 2 seconds three times. the code doesn't go away.
Please advise.
Thanks again
Once the code flashes for the third time I shorted the c connector for 2 seconds three times. the code doesn't go away.
Please advise.
Thanks again
Thread Starter
Advanced
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 80
Likes: 0
From: Birmingham AL
Thanks again
Double checked connectors front one not tight. All lights and codes gone.
I could not have repaired this problem without your help you made it easy and I really appreciate your time and interest.
Thanks to Aaron at Captain Z CNC for going beyond the call of duty.
See ya in Bowling Green
I could not have repaired this problem without your help you made it easy and I really appreciate your time and interest.
Thanks to Aaron at Captain Z CNC for going beyond the call of duty.
See ya in Bowling Green
