DRM Install - pics :)
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 17,699
Likes: 1,667
From: moraga ca
UPDATE! I now have the bushings, thanks to DRM. Install will continue in the AM (T minus 7 hours)
One last question before the install.
I was planning on using the grade 8 bolts that i bought with a split locking washer and drop it down from the inside of the frame. Is the split washer the best choice to keep things tight?
One last question before the install.
I was planning on using the grade 8 bolts that i bought with a split locking washer and drop it down from the inside of the frame. Is the split washer the best choice to keep things tight?
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 1,324
Likes: 5
From: Charlotte NC
Hey Derrick, glad to see the install is underway. I knew the one needed to be revalved, but the others seemed to be in good order, but I'm no expert. Personally, and I'm sure I conveyed to you, I would have revalved them all anyway just for good measure.
I truly hope you don't feel I mis-represented them?
I truly hope you don't feel I mis-represented them?
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 240
Likes: 0
From: San Diego CA
either that or lock nuts like on our seat tracks where the end it sort of oval to lock the nut in place
So what else has to be done to fit these on? I heard that bolts on the trailing arms need to be flipped ( head in) and the head ground down a bit?
I have yet to do the rear coilovers.
Also are the Poly bushings on the top required? or can you use Stock ones?
So what else has to be done to fit these on? I heard that bolts on the trailing arms need to be flipped ( head in) and the head ground down a bit?
I have yet to do the rear coilovers.
Also are the Poly bushings on the top required? or can you use Stock ones?
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 240
Likes: 0
From: San Diego CA
Hey Derrick, glad to see the install is underway. I knew the one needed to be revalved, but the others seemed to be in good order, but I'm no expert. Personally, and I'm sure I conveyed to you, I would have revalved them all anyway just for good measure.
I truly hope you don't feel I mis-represented them?
I truly hope you don't feel I mis-represented them?
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 240
Likes: 0
From: San Diego CA
Update, update, update, update!!!!
So finally had two days off, today was the first and i finished the rears. Tomorrow i want to do the fronts, i don't know if ill have time tho. 
ENJOY! (questions welcome)
HUGE SHOUT OUT TO RANDY AT DRM! DRM is awesome! In all seriousness tho, they run a great biz. Randy was more than helpfull answering my questions and getting me a spanner wrench within the time frame i needed. Thanks again Randy, i encourage everyone here, if you can support DRM for your corvette needs to go to them. %100 top notch guys over their on the East Coast.
Thanks,
Derrick
PIC TIME, yes!
ENJOY! (questions welcome)
HUGE SHOUT OUT TO RANDY AT DRM! DRM is awesome! In all seriousness tho, they run a great biz. Randy was more than helpfull answering my questions and getting me a spanner wrench within the time frame i needed. Thanks again Randy, i encourage everyone here, if you can support DRM for your corvette needs to go to them. %100 top notch guys over their on the East Coast.
Thanks,
Derrick
PIC TIME, yes!
Last edited by dmukina; Nov 18, 2009 at 03:00 AM.
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Race Director
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 13,956
Likes: 706
From: WI
Safety Car
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 3,525
Likes: 2
From: Houston TX
Drop the bolts into the proper holes through the shock mount hole on the bottom. And if you are really **** like me, tack the bolts with a quick weld.
On a side note, the locking washer should be under the nut, not under the head of the bolt.
On a side note, the locking washer should be under the nut, not under the head of the bolt.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 240
Likes: 0
From: San Diego CA
I put the washer under the bolt head because i had no way of keeping the bolt from turning while i tightened it down. Now a little tack weld was my first choice, but i didn't have a welder handy so i made due. I realize you are right tho.
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 30,847
Likes: 293
From: Boston, Dallas, Detroit, SoCal, back to Boston MA
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 240
Likes: 0
From: San Diego CA
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 2,238
Likes: 10
From: College Station TX
DRM recommends cutting a hole in the frame and dropping the bolts in. I didn't want to do this on my car, so I modified the upper shock mounts by welding the hole closed and drilling a new hole 5/8" forward. This allowed me to use the factory nuts in the frame while still clearing the half shaft.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 240
Likes: 0
From: San Diego CA
Pics welcome
Racer
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 460
Likes: 0
From: MN
I did not have to move the sway bar mounts I used a set of Energy Suspension poly bushings. The bushings have the center offset about 1/4" so when using the original hardware the sway bar can be move forward or backward by the 1/4". I also ground off the ends of the sway bar just enough to clean up the sharp edge and the tip that comes close to the spring.
OK after reading this again I need to say that all of the I's that I used should be We. A fellow Forum member was nice enough to help with this mod and he let me use his garage and lift for the weekend.
Thanks Wdo-Mkr
Racer
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 460
Likes: 0
From: MN
OK here is a picture of my setup.
Notice the sway bar is about 3/16" away from the coil spring at it's closest point.
We did not re-use the original lower mounting hardware for the shocks. We drilled out the existing holes just enough to use a better quality grade 8 bolt.
We had to open up the shock tower brackets to allow for the springs to fit. We used a large open end adjustable wrench to spread them apart.
Notice the sway bar is about 3/16" away from the coil spring at it's closest point.
We did not re-use the original lower mounting hardware for the shocks. We drilled out the existing holes just enough to use a better quality grade 8 bolt.
We had to open up the shock tower brackets to allow for the springs to fit. We used a large open end adjustable wrench to spread them apart.