lcvette

I know this is an old thread, but I was wondering if anyone had any additional input on how they were liking the Banki Kit? I had the absolute best service from Banski on their product and the install went very smooth, I am still finishing the car as we speak, (Twin turbo setup shooting for over 1000rwhp, 939rwhp old setup) but I did the following in conjunction with the full Banski kit:

Banski full kit rear
All new Spicer U-joints including driveshaft
New OEM Wheel Bearings
Full Coil over Suspension kit Front and rear
Del-a-lum Front upper and lower control arm kit
Baer Bump steer kit
New front OEM Wheel Bearings
17x11 rear wheels with 315 Nitto NT01
17x9.5 front A-molds with 275 Nitto NT01
Exotic Muscle Heim Joint adjustable Sway Bar end links
Turnone steering rack and pump upgrade
Custom Delrin Batwing Bushing inserts
Stock refinished way Bars (going to wait and see if these need to be changed before deciding what to upgrade tem too)

So I think I have the suspension covered hopefully for a good solid ride and some HPDE track day handling performance.

I have also relocated some items to the rear of the car to try and improve the front back weight ratio.. will have to wait and see what it end up being after I get the car aligned and corner balanced with me in it.

Has anyone else done these mods that can maybe tell me what kind of handling ride improvement I should be in for over bone stock won out 90k mile suspension?

Thanks guys!

Chris

dizwiz24

I put all the banski components in my rear (including the rubber boots) on my 93 6spd. I did this in 2009. I also put polyurethane batwing bushings in the D44 (though I wish I would have done delrin).

I also relocated my battery to rear storage compt behind pass. seat. That worked out great (still jump-startable).

In addition to those recent suspension components I also have:

-17.5 x 9.5 fronts a-molds (275 Kumho ecsta v700's - discontd)
-17.5 x 11 rear GS OEM a-molds (315 kumho ecsta v700's - discontd)
-Z07 32mm front sway bar w/ exotic muscle heim joint adjustable front links.
-polyurethane power steering rack bushing
-Bilstein Z51 shocks
-zfdoc beam plates

I plan on the Del-alum upper and lower control arm bushings this year also. Ive read that makes a big difference.

Finally, Ive got solid motor mounts from CF member: churchkey
These are sitting aside waiting for me to install.
I expect quite a big difference with those and I hear the vibration isnt really bad at all.

Ive got only -.5 degree camber on the front, and I need to get more negative camber than that. When I do the del-alum bushings, I might look into adjustable control arms at that time.

The banski components surprisingly improved the ride quite a bit. Thats the biggest thing I noticed. Rear adjustments are now simple. Adjust for more negative camber at the track and then adjust it back to save your tire wear on the street (also for more traction at the strip). They also save a little bit of weight (just a couple pounds) vs. stock dog bones, camber, and toe arms.

I still get some right rear kick-out under hard acceleration/upper RPMs if/when the rear breaks loose. Its manageable and I can steer into it being careful not to over-correct. Ive rarely had to abort an acceleration run due to rear kick-out.

Biggest issues I have is the race tires I am using are meant for race. Its a 'hot compound' meant for traction when its hot. So once temps drop below 65F, the rear tires can spin in 1st and even 2nd gear during acceleration. However, with 520 rwhp/500 rwTQ, thats expected. Above 75F, theres no traction issues and my setup with hold 1st gear without issue.

The temp sensitivity of these tires could give me a false-sense of security heading into a corner, w/ cold tires (shouldnt do that anyways) vs. on a hot day with hot tires.

Im a little frustated that tire manufacturers keep dropping 17 inch tire offerings. I believe 18 and 19" wheels/ tires add more wheel weight. unsprung weight is important. The 19s/20s are more for looks.

I work as a tire engineer and can tell you that (under dynamic loaded conditions - like acceleration), a P315/35R17 will have slightly more contact area than a P315/30R18. The overall width of the contact patch is the same, but front/rear footprint is increased. Unfortunately my 'pull(influence)' with the big tire company i work for is not enough to get 17" tires in c4 sizes.

383vett

Can you again explain why you decided to go with the beam plates?

NASCAR314

So is this true that the spacers with the trailing arm kit will NOT fit the DRM brackets??? I have heard the DRM brackets are a bit narrower (where bushing, or rod end and spacer fits).

On another note: I have run the Banski "camber rod kit" for about 3 years now, with heavy autocross usage, and not kept clean, no seal covers or anything, with NO issues. I do not have the trailing arms....yet.

lcvette

Diz and Nascar, that is great info to have, I am very much looking forward to feeling the changes all this work and parts will reward me with. the spring selection on my coil overs is a bit aggressive, so it should handle like its on rails.. just hope its not to jarring.. can always swap springs if it is though with little fanfare!

Chris

astock165

The DRM brackets should be the same width as stock, otherwise the crush on the shoulder of a rubber or poly bushing would be even worse and cause more binding.

I've had a few customers use my kit(s) with the DRM brackets without issue so I wouldn't anticipate any problems. The DRM brackets that I've seen have been approximately the same width.

In addition, even if you did find an issue with the width of the rod end & spacer stack in the DRM bracket, my spacers are stainless steel and can be shortened to accommodate. I've done that for customers in the past. I've also had customers send me their DRM brackets so I can ensure a proper fit and then return everything with their order. I've done that with European customers a few times.

dizwiz24

No, this is not at all true.

In fact, you reminded me I forgot to list the drm trailing arm brackets and camber brackets, in addition to the other suspension mods.

The drm trailing arm brackets allow the front end to pop a little higher into the air for weight transfer. Of course my shocks are autox oriented so they fight some of that advantage, but its still there. I did notice this. The result is better traction during, for example, a sudden low gear acceleration input on a moderately powerful car. Instead of spinning, you are more likely to hook. I did extend bumpstops 1" to prevent twisting up the irs on a hard launch.

The banski pieces fit the trailing arm brackets fine with zero modifications.

As for the drm camber brackets, I did have to grind the corner off one of the brackets, but I would have had to do that anyways even if I kept the stock camber arms. I can't remember what was contacting, but I do remember having to mod that part to get it to work.

terryd1961

Thanking about replacing my stock rocker arms with 1.6-1 rockers on my 84 vet s stock engine 71000 miles on it. wondering if any one on here has don the mod and what were the results ?

aboatguy

I had zero issues concerning the DRM brackets. The pictures in the first post of this thread show drm brackets.....

Tom thanks again for the great C4 products.
Mike

NASCAR314

How do you set the "length" on the rear trailing arms? Do you put the rod end bolt holes same length as stock? or alter the length?

I am thinking about purchasing, and the biggest advantage I can see would be easy rotation for weight transfer to rear under acceleration. (No binding rubber bushings). I also see less rear hub movement from rubber bushing "flex" under load. I currently have poly bushings in the stock dog bones, and they do not move as freely as I would like.

I currently have the Camber rod kit and love it works VERY well!

astock165

To start it's recommended that you do exactly that so the new rod end trailing arms are the same length as the dog bones. There's a write up on that in the instructions that come with the Banski kit.

One trick I've used is to lay the dog bones on a bench with the bolts in the holes sticking up. Then use that as a gauge to adjust the position of the rod ends until they slip over the bolts.

The length of the trailing arms can be adjusted but great care should be taken in doing that and it's not something I've had the chance to do yet myself.

That is the main selling point, adding a little freedom to the rear knuckle to allow the tires to grip better.

Glad you're happy with it.