It was a relatively painless process.

 

very nice....these are on my to do list. Still not sure if I'll fab my own or I'll just buy a set like these.

 

I agree. A lot of good vendors to choose from. It also looks like a straight forward design as well, so might be worth doing yourself?

Either way, these look great, have you driven it around yet so you can share your thoughts?

 

Its not binding, I took it pretty easy and the handling is not worse...I'll report after camber bracket and alignment.
If your thinking about making the trailing arms by the time you buy quality components and do it right I believe you'll spend about the same amount of money.

Mike

 

I clean up the area a little before going on a drive



Its probably the last time anyone will see them looking nice. So here's another

 

Haha, yep. Breaks my heart too. Go cleaning up suspension parts and they are going to get dirty. I'm jealous these are all the mods I want to do. Looking good.

Are you running Seals It boots on the heim joints? What size/order number if you are?

 

Yes, seals it boots


Rod end Boot RERS 3 - R

 

I think it was two different sizes as one rod end was smaller than the other. Jim at SEALS it broke two packages to give what I needed.
http://www.sealsit.com/rodendboots.asp

 

Is that the packing material, or just replacement rod boots?

Steve, I remember you saying that. How are yours holding up?

 

I dont have them as they didnt fit my narrowed and lowered Vette. Sux for me.
The boots are on Mikes Vette in this write up.

 

Boatguy weekend pack....

You should see the size of the labor day weekend pack.....

 

Only the one size listed on invoice.

 

Damn, I want to come to your parties!

 

Anyone have problems running these without boots on the street? I have read it is not good because all the road grime.

 

I know CentralCoaster is running them w/o

but he's in SoCal

I wouldn't run them in the winter w/o the boots.

 

My rear heims without boots are three years old now and they still seem new.

 

I have been running the Banski kit since spring of this year without boots. No problems at all. They still look new.

I have the full kit and it really stiffened up the rear of this car. Night and day difference in handling. It shows me how bad the front is now!

 

I bought one of the original kits with the 5/8 rodends and the earlier spacers which didn't fit the DRM brackets. So I had Tom ship me out some different ones, not the tapered ones which he doesn't make for the the older kit. I went over the kit again with the new spacers this weekend.
They're going to work out, all I needed was some thick washers no machining. But, the SAE 5/8ths fastners in METRIC holes is just too sloppy for me.

I could go out an buy metric rodends to replace the ones I have, at $80...each (which explains why Tom doesn't just go ahead and run METRIC rod ends) but the holes in the uprights are probably so beat, I think I'm better off keeping what I have and putting steel inserts into my uprights. That means the install is going to have to wait until the car is in my friends shop and I can get it all torn down.

I've also replaced all the bolts with longer ones, I really don't want threads in shear.

The Penske coilovers are going to be TIGHT in there. I may have to relocate the ABS module connections, and the front swaybar.

 

As I mentioned in my email, if there is that much slop between the 5/8 in bolt and the 16 mm hole then those holes in the knuckle have obviously been elongated somehow. 16 mm converts to 0.6299 in, which is only 0.005 in (or 0.125 mm) bigger than the 5/8 (0.625) in bolt. This is the first time in almost 20 cars worth of kits that I've heard of this issue.

How thick were the walls of the liners you had to put in? If you didn't have to drill out the holes in the knuckle, then theoretically the difference in the ID and OD of the liner will tell you how elongated the holes were.

Also as I mentioned, buying a metric rod end wouldn't help because the metric thread on the body wouldn't mate up to the threaded hole in the link body.

Threads in shear shouldn't be an issue. The stock dogbones used bolts that had threads in shear. The stock metric hardware is class 10.9, having an ultimate tensile strength of 150.8 ksi. The Grade 8 hardware I supply has an ultimate tensile strength of 150 ksi (both figures taken from Hardbar USA's Fastener Grading Chart), a difference of only 0.5%.

Looking at the stress on that bolt, the minor diameter of a 5/8-11 external thread is 0.5168 in (as listed in the Machinery's Handbook). Putting that in double shear means the link would have to see an axial force of 62,832 lb to break the bolt. If that amount of force was exerted on a single link, I don't believe the bolt would be the biggest issue. And even the above is a conservative estimate since in reality only one side of the application will have threads in shear. Assuming a double shear condition with only one side being threaded (more likely real world) I'm calculating a force of 77,430 lb would be necessary to break that bolt.

I'm quite confident in the ruggedness of my product and that it was designed to fit the stock mounting points of C4s. No vendor can possibly account for irregular wear or abuse of stock components.

 

Well its been more than six months and THOUSANDS of miles often in miserable conditions and I'm still impressed with the improvement a couple of simple rear suspension mods made not only to the way the car handles and but the improvement in ride/comfort due to better suspension movement..

Mike