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From: Life is just one big track event. Everything before and after is prep and warm-up and cool-down laps
Cruise-In III Veteran
Cruise-In IV Veteran
St. Jude Donor '12
Yep, they are hard to come by. When I did my 92 it had the same washers in it.
Couldn't find any replacements, just used some copper ones coated them with RTV (just in case) hasn't leaked in a year of road racing.
That was what I was leaning towards but wanted to get some others input on it. I do not want to reuse the old ones as the rubber is rotted out a bit. Just assume replace everything while I am there.
That was what I was leaning towards but wanted to get some others input on it. I do not want to reuse the old ones as the rubber is rotted out a bit. Just assume replace everything while I am there.
The sealing washers are readily available from the dealer.
Although you haven't mentioned head bolts, as an "fyi" the stock head bolts should not be reused. They are torque to yield.
I guess I will be making a trip over to the Chevy dealer to see if they have the washers. As for the bolts - yes, I have purchased some factory replacements.
Thanks all! I will update once it is all back together.
Although you haven't mentioned head bolts, as an "fyi" the stock head bolts should not be reused. They are torque to yield.
Some folks still think they are, but they aren't TTY. GM recommends a different torque procedure in the 96 FSM, but the bolts themselves aren't TTY.
No explanation was given in the FSM for the change in torquing procedure but my thinking is GM now feels the new procedure results in more equal clamping force, eliminating differences in torque wrench readings.
Now, of course, he can replace them if he wants; it's optional.
Jake
West Point ROCKS! Nation's TOP COLLEGE per Forbes Magazine!! Graduation Day Parade 20 May 2010!!!
Well my recent LT4 purchase looks like it will be costing me even more money. It is a good thing I hardly paid anything for it. Today I diagnosed part of the top end ticking noise I was hearnig at idle.
I removed both valve covers and inspected the lifters. The rocker on the right side of cylinder #7 was very loose. I tried to tighten it but the nut will not go any further. A close inspection showed me that something has got to be wrong in there. I removed the rocker and noticed some wear marks on the roller tip end where it meets springs. I removed the pushrod and it appears to be straight as an arrow. It also appears to be extended the same length as the others eliminating the possibility of a collapsed lifter. I inspected the spring and could not tell if it is broken. It does however look more compressed even though there is no pressure on the top. Can anyone give me any insight to this? At this time I am assuming the worst - a bent valve.
Might check if yours was fixed but there was a recall back in 96' for defective Rocker Arms I believe.
Nice post - I will certainly check to see if my car was serviced on the recall - but regardless - that is/was not my issue. Valve seat fell probably due to overheating. Heads have been done and I should be set. It will be a few days before I get a chance to finish the assembly. Maybe by mid next week. Thanks guys!