C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Main caps question

Old Sep 19, 2009 | 04:17 AM
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Default Main caps question

I've acquired a second block for my engine (since my original block can't be repaired). Problem is that this block wasn't assembled when I got it and now I don't know main caps positions.

Is there any way to identify main caps position?
If I switch their positions, is align honing a must?
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Old Sep 19, 2009 | 10:05 AM
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GM stamp numbers the main caps. The stamp is located right on top (right side).

Sometimes the stamps are light and hard to read but they are there.

The rear cap is not numbered but it's position should be evident (its completely different so the oil pump will bolt up).
Will
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Old Sep 19, 2009 | 12:20 PM
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After a little closer examination, I think that I've located numbers 2, 3 and 4 and that's enough.

Other question is, if I put a crank that was in different engine into this
block, does it also require align honing or some other machining?
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Old Sep 20, 2009 | 12:05 PM
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You don't need to fool with the block for a crank change. However, unless you are certain about the pedigree of the new block and caps then it's good insurance to have it done anyway. In fact, even if you do know for certain that you have the caps that go to that block, there could be core shift throwing the journals out of line. Is it worth the $150 or so to make sure?
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Old Sep 20, 2009 | 12:14 PM
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Put in the bearings and crank and torque it down. If the bearing clearance is good and it spins free, its good.
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Old Sep 20, 2009 | 10:06 PM
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How could core shift, which occurs before the block is out of the mold, survive the final factory machining? A crank shaft change could never cause a need for align boring or honing. The main bearing bores can be checked for alignment and corrected if necessary without preforming the operation.

RACE ON!!!
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Old Sep 20, 2009 | 10:48 PM
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Perhaps "core shift" wasn't the proper nomenclature. Engine blocks are known to "adjust" to some extent after undergoing normal heat cycles. That is why engine builders often prefer to choose used blocks for performance builds. Considering the time and money involved in doing such a job, I would prefer to know that everything is correct.
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Old Sep 20, 2009 | 11:03 PM
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Originally Posted by JackDidley
Put in the bearings and crank and torque it down. If the bearing clearance is good and it spins free, its good.
Align hone is obviously the best but if it passes this test you should be safe.
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Old Sep 21, 2009 | 12:24 AM
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Originally Posted by M. Schumacher
Considering the time and money involved in doing such a job, I would prefer to know that everything is correct.
I agree, it is important "to know that everything is correct.". I also agree that dimensions can change through age and repeated heat cycles. However, it isn't necessary to re-bore or hone the main bearing bores in the block Just "to know that everything is correct." and to ensure the alignment is correct. When you check your tire pressure, do you first purge all the air, dismount and remount the tire "to know that everything is correct."? Just because you throw money at something doesn't guarantee it is correct. Have you ever heard of operator error, or "don't fix what ain't broke"?

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