Speedo problems
Last edited by T. Wayne Nelson; Sep 20, 2009 at 07:11 PM.
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I'm not sure of the wiring on an 85 but another possibility would be the ECM or cruise modules if the speed sensor signal is sent there first.
On my 93 for example the signal is first sent to the ECM for conversion from sine wave to digital then sent to the cruise and body computers, finally the body computer or CCM sends the information to the dash for display. I don't think the 85 has a body computer but it may well send the signal to the ECM first, just an idea, good luck.
I'm not sure of the wiring on an 85 but another possibility would be the ECM or cruise modules if the speed sensor signal is sent there first.
On my 93 for example the signal is first sent to the ECM for conversion from sine wave to digital then sent to the cruise and body computers, finally the body computer or CCM sends the information to the dash for display. I don't think the 85 has a body computer but it may well send the signal to the ECM first, just an idea, good luck.
As a reminder, the speedo acts the same with either of two different clusters in the car. Wiggling the wires and connections between the VSS and the cluster showed no variation on an ohmmeter. Therefore, we are back to either a bad output from the VSS, the unit or the gears, or some other unknown input to the cluster that we don't know enough to test.
Based on the report "I have seen erratic speedo operation with an apple cored gear", I think the next step is to follow the advice and get the car on a rack and check as advised. Some had reported that they thought, if the gears were shot, that the speedo was totally, no go. That was my first thought, too, but it occurred to me that if bumps could cause momentary contact... Hearing that it HAS been observed, means that we have to check it. Thanks again, toptechx6.
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I don't have documentation to prove it to you but the VSS actually goes to both the ECM and dash at the same time...via a splice point somewhere.
To confirm a dual feed: unplug the dash and remove it from the car then hook up a scanner to the car's ALDL connector and start and drive the car and you'll see that you can read the vehicle's actual speed from the ECM scanner.
Below is a 84 digital dash diagram which is virually the same as an 85 for all intents and purposes it clearly shows the VSS feeding directly to the cluster:
Note: don't land the VSS AC grounds with the DC grounds.
To me this sounds like you've got a wiring clusterfuke going on there which is going to take time to go through each circuit. This is kind of how it goes with buying a "pre owned" car....you never know what you got until you really get in there. Sounds like your off to a good start though and CFI-EFI seems to really know his 85's so just with that your better off than most having someone there to hold your hand through your ordeal. Take your time wiring problems can be very frustrating even when they haven't been tampered/butchered by previous owners.
If you haven't already done so take a look at the firewall junction 42 cavity plug "C100" bulk head connector. This connector has caused me some problems over the years. This plug can be trouble to get, to clean and seal but parts of the circuits your dealing with run through this connector. Ensure that the connector has no water in it and that the pins are not pushed back.
Hope this helps...have fun guys,
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
I don't have documentation to prove it to you but the VSS actually goes to both the ECM and dash at the same time...via a splice point somewhere.
To confirm a dual feed: unplug the dash and remove it from the car then hook up a scanner to the car's ALDL connector and start and drive the car and you'll see that you can read the vehicle's actual speed from the ECM scanner.
Below is a 84 digital dash diagram which is virually the same as an 85 for all intents and purposes it clearly shows the VSS feeding directly to the cluster:
Note: don't land the VSS AC grounds with the DC grounds.
To me this sounds like you've got a wiring clusterfuke going on there which is going to take time to go through each circuit. This is kind of how it goes with buying a "pre owned" car....you never know what you got until you really get in there. Sounds like your off to a good start though and CFI-EFI seems to really know his 85's so just with that your better off than most having someone there to hold your hand through your ordeal. Take your time wiring problems can be very frustrating even when they haven't been tampered/butchered by previous owners.
If you haven't already done so take a look at the firewall junction 42 cavity plug "C100" bulk head connector. This connector has caused me some problems over the years. This plug can be trouble to get, to clean and seal but parts of the circuits your dealing with run through this connector. Ensure that the connector has no water in it and that the pins are not pushed back.
Hope this helps...have fun guys,
RACE ON!!!
is the gen 7 setup going to stay in the car?Testing the VSS is easy:
Hook a AC voltage meter up to the sensor's output conductors (with probes or clamps) and spin the input gear. Any AC voltage output should indicate a good VSS. Nothing to really "fail" inside the VSS itself.
I'm not sure what your looking to do with the car but if the car is that bad I think I'd order a "Painless" wiring kit and skip the checks. I've used these wiring kits on applications in the past and they are pain free....an you get to keep your sanity.
Last edited by engle1147; Oct 8, 2009 at 04:19 PM. Reason: more specific
is the gen 7 setup going to stay in the car?Testing the VSS is easy:
Hook a AC voltage meter up to the sensor's output conductors (with probes or clamps) and spin the input gear. Any AC voltage output should indicate a good VSS. Nothing to really "fail" inside the VSS itself.
How often does a VSS go bad, cause, if that is not the problem then the other issues may be a SOB, one would be the Gear and the other is chasing more wiring......
The nutzo crazy part of this whole nightmare wiring fiasco, one problem after another, is that is the DFI CAME with a new harness. The DFI was bought new and installed by people that, in my opinion, shouldn't be allowed to change a light bulb. There are WAAAY too many splices, using inferior blue quick splicers that are failing, one after another with great regularity. Circuits are spliced that never should have been touched. It appears to me that some of these splicers are to repair screw ups during the DFI installation. When the oil pressure gauge failed, he took it back and as a matter of routine, with not one second of trouble shooting, they replaced the sending unit. Amazingly, had they taken 30 seconds to check the gauge readout with the wire disconnected (it should read 80#) and then grounded (should read 0#), they would have (if they understood how it worked) realized that the wire from the sender to the gauge didn't have continuity between the two. It read 80# constantly. The replacement of the sender accomplished nothing, but to generate a repair bill, with no repair. Then, as we started to fix it our selves, we traced the break in continuity to a blue splicer. Why a splice in that circuit is beyond me.
I mentioned earlier, that possibly, there is a wire, we don't know about, that could affect the speedo operation. In your post with the schematics (and my FSM, now that I look) I see in addition to the ckt 400 yellow wire at D11 and the ckt 401 purple wire at C15, a black/white wire (speedometer ground) ckt 153 at D3 . And, while the ground (ckt153) does go through the C100 bulkhead connector, the VSS hi input (ckt 400) and the VSS lo input (ckt 401) do not. They connect through C467 (pins C and D) under the center of the IP. Thanks again, engle1147.
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Beware of shops that claim to be Corvette specialists, this one bled me dry, and will not back up thier work.












