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I just checked it, the passenger floor is wet, i looked at the hose connections on the engine side of the firewall and its all dry there, the smell of antifreeze when the vents were on got worse with fan speed (had to open windows before i threw up)..looks like its the core for sure then rite?
This is fantastic lol just what i needed right before i put it away for winter.
Been running mine dry for over 5 years now, ha. I just don't drive the car when it's below freezing... or if I do i wear a thick jacket and keep my right leg pressed against the center console where the headers are on the otherside warming it a bit
5 hr job for me. did it a couple months back. turned out great! this was on a 96... I didn't need to remove the dash. Hardest part is getting the blend door actuator arm (white plastic piece) back on.
cost was $43 for the heater core and $15 in food caffeine and nicotine. cheaper than the $1200 the dealer quoted me!!
Gotta replace mine on a 96CE. Do you have any instructions, tips, other things to replace while in there? Any help appreciated...
Don't know if radhunter above has the instructions for the 92-96 but I do if he doesn't. I just replaced the core on my 93 this winter, difficult but doable by non mechanic (me). Email me if you need the instructions, I found someone here who gave me great, detailed instructions. thomasbrammer@sbcglobal.net
Gotta replace mine on a 96CE. Do you have any instructions, tips, other things to replace while in there? Any help appreciated...
My advice as a technician is to remove both hoses from heater core first.Then run your water hose from the house running water through the heater core for about 30 sec to remove all coolant from heater core.Then take an air blower or put your mouth over one end of heater core and blow out the water from heater core the best you can.If you don't first do this step you will have coolant spill into interior when removing heater core and coolant is slimmy.Don't be afraid
Since i don't have airbags and whatnot in the 85, should it be a little bit easier?
I dont' have electonic climate control either.
The core is cheap, but the labor is a bitch...GREAT.
At least i will save like 500 dollars doing it myself
if you want to make it even easier, ditch the breadloaf and put a flat panel in. It looks good and you don't have to battle with putting the nuts on the back of the breadloaf back in. it does suck getting it out though
How about taking the car to a Corvette specialist like TAS auto in Ogden Ut. They charged me $500 plus and did not put the blend door back, and when I asked them to fix it, they basically said to get screwed. Good thing my brothers an attornery because you can't sue for a $500 screwup. But I can for 0...
Small Claims Court. I don't have a lawyer but I do watch Judge Joe Brown.
Seriousl, I had a Jeep dealership screw me over the repairs on a '99 Grand Cherokee - repairs they charged me for but didn't do. I took them to Small Claims Court for the $750 they had charged me. One was replacing the serpintine belt. Prior to taking the JEEP in for servicing, I marked the oil filter and the serpintine belt with a white paint-stick. When I picked the JEEP up the next day, I called them on the fact my repairs hadn't taken place as the same oil filter and serpintine belt were still on the vehicle. The manager came out, cussed me out in front of other customers and told me to never visit his stealership again.
So I did the paperwork for Small Claims, leaked the case out to the local media and went to court. The Judge found in my favor, that made second page news and the owner of the JEEP stealership called me, offering free oil changes for the rest of the life of the Grand Cherokee as an olive branch. I politiely turned him down as for I feared for the lives of me and my family if people in theservice area held a grudge against me for suing and embarassing them.
Some dealerships may even work with you as sending a representative to wait in court for up to half-a-day isn't cost effective.
if you want to make it even easier, ditch the breadloaf and put a flat panel in. It looks good and you don't have to battle with putting the nuts on the back of the breadloaf back in. it does suck getting it out though
Whats the point of taking extra time to fool with the breadbox? No point in messing with it with regards to a heater core change.
My advice as a technician is to remove both hoses from heater core first.Then run your water hose from the house running water through the heater core for about 30 sec to remove all coolant from heater core.Then take an air blower or put your mouth over one end of heater core and blow out the water from heater core the best you can.If you don't first do this step you will have coolant spill into interior when removing heater core and coolant is slimmy.Don't be afraid
That's good advice. Also after the heater core is in and connected. I'd run it real good with the heat on to make sure the new heater core doesn't leak before I put everything back together.
Oh and any advice on what brand heater core? I always hear to get a good heater core as you don't want to do this again. But yet everything is aftermarket, so who knows what is a good heater core? I'd like to find out who made the OEM unit, and see if they still make it.
Well you must have a one kind 96 vette as am doing my heater core rt now and my manual said the 1990 and up models you have remove the top IP panel.
As it is part of the dash below the glove box in front of the heater core box.
5 hr job for me. did it a couple months back. turned out great! this was on a 96... I didn't need to remove the dash. Hardest part is getting the blend door actuator arm (white plastic piece) back on.
cost was $43 for the heater core and $15 in food caffeine and nicotine. cheaper than the $1200 the dealer quoted me!!
How did you do it without removing the upper dash? I'll be doing mine in a week or two, dependent upon weather. With the newer style dash I didn't think there was a shortcut like the earlier style.