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After reading several threads poor braking and the connection to the ABS system I decided to give it a try. Prior to this my brake pedal felt OK but I could not get the ABS to activate on dry pavement. Today in a light rain I took my 94 out and tried to get the ABS to activate. I had to stomp the pedal as hard as I could to finally get it to activate. The ABS light lit up and I could feel the system working. After this first activation subsequent hard stops activated the ABS much earlier with less pedal effort. There is a difference in the required pedal effort now. Takes less effort to get the ABS to kick in. I will take the car out tomorrow when the pavement is dry and see if there is an improvement in the dry braking.
I have had the car scanned prior to this and there were no codes. I replaced the brake pads, rotors and bled the brakes about 1000 miles ago.
If you haven't activated your ABS in a while go out and try to activate the ABS to make sure it is cycling correctly. Dirty, old brake fluid will affect your ABS.
Don't ignore the fact that you also got a little bit of heat in the brakes as well, which, depending on the pad compound, can make them work better. A street-only pad will have better cold bite, while a more track/race oriented pad will work better after it's come up to temperature. Both will, of course, fall off in performance if they overheat.
Are you planning to re-bleed/flush the system now that you've pushed some of the old fluid out of the ABS module?
This concept of having better brakes after activating the ABS has been in many posts. But your point is well taken. It has also been said the even that there are no codes, clearing module 9.7 makes the braking better. Myth or fact not quite established yet, just all of us hoping for better brakes even if it takes waving a magic wand. I have tried it all.
I just recently changed from Hawk HPS to Brembo pads and have much better results.
Originally Posted by TravisD
Don't ignore the fact that you also got a little bit of heat in the brakes as well, which, depending on the pad compound, can make them work better.
This definitely is true when they get heated. Try your test again before they get to heated. But its nice to have the brakes work the first time.
Guys: The brakes were dead cold. I started it up drove out of the driveway about 1/4 mile and tried to activate the ABS. Did it at 25 mph. The streets were wet so no need to go any faster.
Yes I am going to do a full brake fluid flush after this.
From: 1994 LT1 Coupe 6-speed with FX3 & 2000 LS1 Vert 6-Speed with F45 Hunterdon County, NJ
ram0672,
Found the same result (better brakes after engaging the ABS) on our 94 too and documented it in a very long thread a few months ago.
Unfortunately, I haven't had a chance to re-bleed the brakes since then, but plan on doing it over the winter.
If you do get to rebleeding, suggest doing it just after engaging the ABS and then use only DOT-3 fluid (not dot 3 compatible or DOT 4) and also do bleed the ABS/ASR 'prime pipe' and then the wheels in the FSM order (rr,lr,rf,lf).
One other thing I have also wondered is if the order of bleeding in the FSM might be wrong, so if the improvment doesn't stay (or gets worse), and if you have time to be creative, consider trying the bleeding sequence of ealier C4's (don't remember what it is, but likely it was lr before rr).
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