C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Begginning Fastguy Method - Heater Core

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Old Oct 28, 2009 | 09:13 PM
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Very good advice!
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Old Oct 31, 2009 | 04:12 PM
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Upon installing the new core, i found that I had to bend some of the pipes...when i bent the top one, the seal cracked where the core meets the pipes. crap.

can i use something to reseal it like JB WELD?
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Old Oct 31, 2009 | 04:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Pwnage1337
Upon installing the new core, i found that I had to bend some of the pipes...when i bent the top one, the seal cracked where the core meets the pipes. crap.

can i use something to reseal it like JB WELD?

ya wanna pull it all apart again in a few days?
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Old Oct 31, 2009 | 06:35 PM
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So i have to take it back for a new one?

There has to be some way to reseal it, how do they reman them?
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Old Nov 1, 2009 | 05:54 AM
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Originally Posted by Pwnage1337
So i have to take it back for a new one?

There has to be some way to reseal it, how do they reman them?
I wouldn't put it back in.
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Old Nov 1, 2009 | 07:31 AM
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Originally Posted by Pwnage1337
So i have to take it back for a new one?

There has to be some way to reseal it, how do they reman them?
The parts are usually soldered at the factory. I've only seen pictures of a core, thankfully I've not had to replace mine yet, but they look like they are all metal. If that's the case a radiator shop might be able to fix it for you. If they try have them pressure test it before you take it.
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Old Nov 1, 2009 | 07:56 AM
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I ran across the same problem where one of the tubes was positioned wrong so it wouldn't go thru the firewall.

I used a propane torch like the plumbers use and carefully heated the joint at the core and moved the the tube to the proper position. Didn't need any extra solder.

Since your tube has broken loose from the core you could try reheating the solder joint and use an acid core solder if needed.
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Old Nov 1, 2009 | 08:22 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by Hooked on Vettes
I ran across the same problem where one of the tubes was positioned wrong so it wouldn't go thru the firewall.

I used a propane torch like the plumbers use and carefully heated the joint at the core and moved the the tube to the proper position. Didn't need any extra solder.

Since your tube has broken loose from the core you could try reheating the solder joint and use an acid core solder if needed.
Great advise but unless you've done it before, it can be tricky, take it to a nearby radiator repair shop and let them do it correctly.

Is the new heater core a GM or is it an aftermarket core? If its an aftermarket one, send it back or throw it away and go for the real GM part that will last unlike the cheapo reproductions that may last 1/3 as long or less then an original.

Make sure you change out your cooling system at least every 2 years with a flush as well. This is what takes out heater cores and radiators, acids build up in your cooling system from so many dissimular metals in your cooling system, leave that in there and it eats from the inside out and usually your heater core is the sacrificial lamb so to speak.

Fastguy method heater core removal/replace just turned into slowguy method, if you take a whack at soldering the broken core and its not right, You'll be doing it again, not a pleasant job, 2nd time around, less pleasant. Take your time and do it right....
'
Good luck
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Old Nov 1, 2009 | 10:25 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by ZRWHAT
Great advise but unless you've done it before, it can be tricky, take it to a nearby radiator repair shop and let them do it correctly.

Is the new heater core a GM or is it an aftermarket core? If its an aftermarket one, send it back or throw it away and go for the real GM part that will last unlike the cheapo reproductions that may last 1/3 as long or less then an original.

Make sure you change out your cooling system at least every 2 years with a flush as well. This is what takes out heater cores and radiators, acids build up in your cooling system from so many dissimular metals in your cooling system, leave that in there and it eats from the inside out and usually your heater core is the sacrificial lamb so to speak.

Fastguy method heater core removal/replace just turned into slowguy method, if you take a whack at soldering the broken core and its not right, You'll be doing it again, not a pleasant job, 2nd time around, less pleasant. Take your time and do it right....
'
Good luck



Its an aftermarket one from GhettoZone.

Yep, when i drained the antifreeze it was brown. I think part of its brownness came from the heater core when it took a ****, because the antifreeze was only about 5 months old. Or maybe the whole block is covered with crud, who knows. I'm going to be building an engine this winter so screw it, I'll just run water through the system until it comes out clear. (about 500 times )

I think I am going to try to solder it, it doesn't look to hard. I will upload a photo to see what you guys think of it.


Update: Here's what it looks like. Excuse the ****ty blackberry photo, but you get the picture.

As you can see it just separated from the solder a little bit. I ran water through it and plugged one of the outlets with my thumb and blew into the other side and a bit of water squirted out.

Last edited by Pwnage1337; Nov 1, 2009 at 10:42 AM.
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Old Nov 1, 2009 | 11:04 AM
  #30  
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a 90-up car would have broke his will real quik
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Old Nov 1, 2009 | 11:05 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by jeffp1167
a 90-up car would have broke his will real quik
what lol? Are they different in terms of heater cores or somethin?
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Old Nov 1, 2009 | 11:15 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by Pwnage1337
what lol? Are they different in terms of heater cores or somethin?
yep much harder! I have to pull mine again to change the climate control motor. But debating weather wearing a winter jacket is a easier solution to the problem.
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Old Nov 1, 2009 | 11:21 AM
  #33  
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bring it back to "ghettozone" and exchange it. looks to me thats the way it came out of the box.
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Old Nov 1, 2009 | 11:36 AM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by jon0108
bring it back to "ghettozone" and exchange it. looks to me thats the way it came out of the box.
The soldered joint clearly broke when i bent it, it didn't come that way. I watched its poor little melted body snap.
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Old Nov 1, 2009 | 03:35 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by Pwnage1337
The soldered joint clearly broke when i bent it, it didn't come that way. I watched its poor little melted body snap.
jon108 is insinuating that " It was that way in when you opened the box" That's your story and stick to it.

It may sound unethical but since the part was manufactured so that it did not fit properly.......it is a manufacturing defect...so its a wash in the Karmic universe.


I don know what I'd do in your position since I would not install a cheap chinese knockoff heater core....I'd use a higher quality one since heatercores are a part I don't want to install twice.

Mike
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Old Nov 1, 2009 | 04:35 PM
  #36  
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If you have electronic climate control, replace the blendoor motor while you have it apart.
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Old Nov 1, 2009 | 05:13 PM
  #37  
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I would take it back, get my money, and order a GM core from thepartsladi on ebay for $38.95 plus shipping and know I had the best I could get in my car..You probably paid that much for the Chinese crap you have now.I like to save money, but this is one place I would get GM only......WW

Last edited by WW7; Nov 1, 2009 at 05:16 PM.
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Old Nov 1, 2009 | 08:45 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by WW7
I would take it back, get my money, and order a GM core from thepartsladi on ebay for $38.95 plus shipping and know I had the best I could get in my car..You probably paid that much for the Chinese crap you have now.I like to save money, but this is one place I would get GM only......WW
Thats where I got mine and thats what I paid for mine as well
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Old Nov 1, 2009 | 11:25 PM
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Originally Posted by WW7
I would take it back, get my money, and order a GM core from thepartsladi on ebay for $38.95 plus shipping and know I had the best I could get in my car..You probably paid that much for the Chinese crap you have now.I like to save money, but this is one place I would get GM only......WW

Originally Posted by ZRWHAT
Thats where I got mine and thats what
I paid for mine as well agree:
I was wondering how the Parts Ladi could sell a genuine GM OEM heater core at that price. So I looked up the ad on E-bay. Well the heater core for $38.95 plus $10.00 shipping is made by Proliance and is not a GM/OEM heater core. They make no claims that it's manufactured in the US.
So I guess both of you could be replacing the heater core in the near future.

Autozone sells a Spectra heater core for $43.00 with a Lifetime warranty. For a warranty claim you can go to any Autozone store. The Parts Ladi has a 2 year warranty thru the manufacturer. So that probably means you have to deal with the manufacturer for any warranty repair/swap and pay for return shipping of the old core.

There was a forum member who purchased an item from the Parts Ladi and it failed. They would not exchange the item under warranty because he didn't keep the original box. That's one of downsides I see with dealing with The Parts Ladi. Who is going to keep the original box for 2 years?

Here's the link for the E-bay heater core listing.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/84-85...Q5fAccessories

Last edited by Hooked on Vettes; Nov 1, 2009 at 11:33 PM.
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Old Nov 2, 2009 | 12:43 AM
  #40  
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Couldn't you reseal it with a propane torch? If you do, pressure test before buttoning everything back up. If you don't have a torch, I'd just go to a radiator shop and have them seal it up (if their price is reasonable).


Last edited by 86PACER; Nov 2, 2009 at 12:52 AM.
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