^^I'm concerned here. The first thing you should have done is follow the repair procedures for the cluster found on Batee.com.

I assumed you did this based on the fact that you posted links to that sight on your very first post. But later you state that you did not know what to re-solder or what solder points to reflow.

Then you did "something" in post #18, something that I don't completely understand, but it led you to believe that you needed to replace the unit.

OK, Back to square one......Go to Batee.com and follow the repair procedures verbatim. Once this is accomplished, replace the cluster into the dash and tell us what you wind up with.

The reason this should be done.....you in your mind have already resigned the current cluster......no loss now. But you have a chance to save a dime or two and learn something in the meantime. Try to follow the steps of thousands of successful DIYers before you that used Batee.com. If you find that you have successfully repaired your current Cluster, then call it a day.....This attempt will cost you ~$10 and an hour or two....

Your not going to see a hairline crack in the solder itself, but these are the cracks that batee.com calls "Grounding shorts". No visual inspection is required here....just take your soldering iron and a bit of new solder and heat up each solder point......once it flows the hairline crack is gone......if it flows and looks really think after...add a touch of solder.

 

When I wrote the post #18 I had measured all the main pins of the cluster (power and grounds mainly) and all they was ok. Then I unmounted all the cluster's boards and I measured resistances between the lower board and the LCD displays as Batee.com says, and there was all right.

Then I assembled the cluster again and I connected it to 12V and measured voltages across the upper board, and when I touched the main microprocessor I felt my finger burning because the circuit was very hot. Then I disconnected the 12V power and I thought that to repair this cluster is near to impossible, and I wrote the post #18.

I'll try to investigate about the cluster failure deeply, but if the main microprocessor is burned I won't can do anything to repair it... probably the ROM memory is damaged too, and if it's damaged the built-in software will be lost forever.

Cheers!

 

I'll try to add a touch of solder the next week when I'll return to my home (from Monday to Friday I'm out of home). I hope it can resolve something

Thanks!

 

My cluster hase a crack in left side (Spdomtr) Do I have to change the complete closter ?

 

Hello, I think you can find a speedometer display in Ebay easily. My problem is worse than yours

 

Hello to all!

I have bought a "new" cluster and it works good after I have resolder some pins in it. I have a new question, and is that I don't unserstand why the cluster has 2 outputs to ground and they are independent. As I thought that a bad contact on a ground pin would do bad things I have solded and joint the two outputs to ground into the cluster and it works good, but I'm still thinking about the rare duplicate outputs to ground. I think that the ground is the battery negative and it's unique, although there are some wires connected to different ground sources on the car (all them go to the negative battery), so I don't understand the reason for two different outputs to ground... in my cluster won't be as it anymore... it can cause a lot of problems if one output to ground is broken and the other one is correct. What do you think about it?

Cheers!