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Where are the deals? are the around 160 buck metal ones any good rather than 400 for an oem new one? there have to be compromises and what might they be? I am looking for OEM brakes or better and cureently a very hard pedal compared to every car i ever drove.
I have that same high and hard pedal........... I might be in the market for one as well. I will def be trying the cheaper one if I do.............................. But when your booster goes dosent it act like a vacume leak and your idle will change when you hit the pedal???????????? Mine case almost seems like air in the line, Obviosly I will be bleeding the system before I get a booster...........
i need a new booster as well, as my brake pedal is very hard and i got a loud hissing noise when i brake. i dont really notice a change in idle, but my voltmeter usually jumps around a little the first few times i pump my brakes. id be interested in a cheaper version if its good quality also
There less than 200 for the plastics at Checkers Oreillys, and RockAuto is probably the same.
Also, if you have headers, cylinder #7 heats up the brake booster over time and it cracks. Guldstrand found this out during development in a C4 for Gms 315 sized Good Years for the ZR1. He was running a C4 with 383 chevy and headers to get the HP needed to get to speeds etc for testing. Well they broke boosters and then realized they needed heat shielding next to the header, and no more breaking boosters. I use some very good heat shielding that I wrap around the booster.
Ever noticed ZR-1 s have metal boosters.
You can see it a little in this photo
Another couple questions about this problem. I have a 2002 Pontiac GP and when you press on the brakes they feel a bit light for pressure though the car stops well and get progessivly harder the further you go until the ABS locks up. Is this the correct pedal feel for a 91 coupe. I would think so but mine are pretty hard from the beginning. The only way I could set the ABS off was 40 mph in the rain and as hard as I could push the pedal. I find it hard to believe the pads are that gone. I have had the car for a year now and find myself driving it progressivly harder as well so what seemed good for power and braking is getting worse I think out of boredom it all becomes sort of yeah whatever..loLI never thought the tuned port was all that bad until i fixed everything else so it had no shakes vibrations or anything else that would convice you to lift rather than hang with it. Now I can easily get past the initial charge that feels good and get into the black hole at 4500 with no one home in the engine room..LOL Much to do this winter under the hood.
Second there seems to be a couple of low cost solutions for the brake booster. Many sell what looks like the same metal case booster for around 150 to 170 second there are rebuilt booosters for around 125 that look like the stock one. Both have a warrentee that has so many loopholes in it as to not be one anyway. Has anyone run either of these units vs the 400 OEM part? I think Cardone A1 was the company for the rebuilt.
Where are the deals? are the around 160 buck metal ones any good rather than 400 for an oem new one? there have to be compromises and what might they be? I am looking for OEM brakes or better and cureently a very hard pedal compared to every car i ever drove.
Ever think about doing a rebuild and changing the diaphragm.
Ever think about doing a rebuild and changing the diaphragm.
I had thought you needed a bunch of special tools to do the job. Does the FSM tell you how and where do you get the parts? I am going to put a mighty vac on it this morning and assume it should hold vacuum.. Please correct me if I am wrong..
I have never done it. I’m not sure what problems you would encounter but several of the Forum members have done it. I think it is do-able and worth a shot. Don’t know if you need everything the FSM says you do. But I would definitely read that section. That is the dealer way expecting them the have every special tool and adaptor in the FSM.
I melted my stock booster and replaced it with a metal autozone booster. Haven't had a problem since (4years). I believe it was around $160 with a lifetime warranty. No brainer to me
Put the mighty vac on mine and pumped a couple of dozen times and got it down to 20 inches. It slowly leaked down but 1 pump put it right back so i am thinking the mighty vac is leaking and not the booster. What is next ABS ? it will go off in wet weather.. Master cylinder? Hoses? the pads are supposed to be new as of a year ago when i got the car