What problums are you haveing mateing the LS to the 4+3 trans? Melrose or Keisler should be able to set you up with out spending too much money.



http://www.keislerauto.com/gm/gm-par...ypage_acc.html

 

Since nobody else asked I will. Why on earth did you take the front of the car off? You could have left all that together and pulled the motor from the side. Hood can even stay on.

 

I took it off since I pulled it with the tranny. If I pulled just the motor I could have did it from the side but would have had nowhere to go with it since I am working in a car tent in the dirt. Had to pull the nose to get the hoist in close enough

 

I am having problem with just that. the stock fly wheel is a 153 tooth flywheel and the LS is designed for a 168 tooth. I think that maybe the solution to my problem Thanks alot

 

Man, you are working way too hard. Good luck to you .

 

Thanks

 

All I can say is WOW

 

your 5.3 looks suspiciously like a 4.8.........is 5.3 cast in the block somewhere?
I have a 5.3 tahoe, and the throttle body is larger than yours, and the intake looks nothing like yours.....the vortec "hat" on the intake is also of a different design.
My Tahoe is a 2001. and in 2001, they made all the rocker covers of a centerbolt design. Prior to that, they were perimeter like your old engine.
So at least your engine is later than 2000. If the pan is still off of it, it is time to measure the stroke.
most 4.8 engines were in pickups.
Not that you can't get the 4.8 to fire like the big boys, but you may be able to get some green back from the "yard"

 

that would suck

 

http://www.quicktimeinc.com/products.html

They sell a transmission bell housing that "should" allow you to retain the existing c4 transmission and marry it to the Ls-x.

 

keisler is a GREAT vendor, but I've been told that swapping an auto to manual (5-speed earlier c4's) would run about $3,500 dollars! This is by no means a cheap swap! Also keep in mind, that DOES NOT include ALL the items that you will need to make the swap happen.

I asked about this when I was "thinking" of picking up an older c4 and "just swapping the automatic or 4+3 for a tko-500/600", turned out that it was much more practical to purchase a standard-transmission equipped car (if I wanted a standard transmission) than to try and tackle the swap.

i've also been down the "swap is cheaper than building the existing engine" road before, and all I can say (from experience- for me) is that in the end it's MUCH MORE EXPENSIVE to do the swap than to rebuild what you've got. It's all in the details my friend (see dime-and-nickle for this reference)

 

I wish that'd been the case when I started my project.

I considered this, too, but there were so darn many made that it seemed unlikely to have much value as a collector in any reasonable amount of time. Then, I reached a point where going back to stock was way too much work. I mounted the new ECM in the stock site, having my harness modified by Jim's Performance in VA where I bought that ECM.

Part of the reason I went a non-LS route was the tranny-mating issue, as you discovered (and this thread progressed). The intake setup is another problem as the '84 hood hits any later C4 plumbing and altering the new intake to accept the '84 air cleaner is not really an option. I changed to an '87 hood rather than cut the crossbrace on the '84's. (add painting $)

I recommend checking the other driveline components for wear.We found plenty of cracks in the manual's teeth, especially 2nd; then I broke the rear end during mild acceleration. My motor however, makes a LOT more torque.

This is a big project and I admire your doing it, especially as a HS student! I (and others) reached a tough period when the car seemed top have unsolveable run/reliability problems but persistence and encouragement from fellow forum buds, got me through.

The '84 had a lower pressure fuel system, so the pump and ALL rubber in the lines need changing or it will leak/burst. Jim solved my no-start via phone, is how I know this. Luckily, my hose burst inside the fuel tank.

You will also need a very good tuner to 'chip' the engine, especially as you are building a car to drive.

:w

 

Thanks for the info.
Every rubber hose has to be changed to piping or braided hoses?

 

No, just a higher pressure rated rubber hose, like the TPI cars use. Don't forget to change those under the car, where rubber hoses serve as junctions in the otherwise-steel tubing, like at the filter connection.

 

In my CFI to HSR conversion I as well had to go to a better fuel line to make certain I will be able to go from 15psi to a 40 something psi safely. I used this
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/RUS-634140/ for hose
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/AER-FBM1512/- push lok fittings

 

Just an update on the build...

I hit a brick wall trying to attach the tranny to the motor. I have a couple of things to try out but nothing to post picks of yet. Once I get everything worked out I will post pics and most likely put the motor into the car for a test fit. And then its electrical and making everything look good. Like cleaning the engine bay and painting the motor.

So on the to-do list for the rest of this build and in the order that it will be completed in(most likely) :
1. Attach tranny to motor
2. Figure out electrical
3. Try to Make Long Tube Headers
4. Do an LS6 cam upgrade (still debating)
5. Clean engine bay
6. Soda blast Engine
7. Paint Engine
8. Install engine
9. Work out the accessory brackets and Belt layout.
10. Get it running
11. Put car back together
12. Donuts in the parking lot

I will try to post pics of as much as I can

Cory

 

Enjoying reading this thread, nice work so far.

 

Hey that's the exact same to do list i have. Well except the cam, I want to see how much power my ls1 has first. Good luck

 

thanks and you to

 

thanks