C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Hard Brake Pedal

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Old Oct 20, 2009 | 10:56 AM
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Default Hard Brake Pedal

Here's the symptom(s): With foot on pedal and engine running pedal feels fine. If I shut off the engine with foot on pedal the pedal immediately goes hard. Also I seem to notice that sometimes the ABS does not make the self test noise in which case I have a hard brake pedal when driving. If the self-test occurs the pedal seems softer.

Any ideas?

1994 coupe
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Old Oct 20, 2009 | 11:04 AM
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When shutting the engine off you should be able to get 3 soft pedals before it get hard, and a vacuum sound as you depress the pedal. If you don’t get that, the booster sounds like it has a leak or the check valve is bad.

The ABS check sounds like another problem.
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Old Oct 20, 2009 | 11:27 AM
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Thanks Colt, I check mine and see. I, too, have been noticing the brake pedal getting a little firmer than I wish for.
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Old Oct 20, 2009 | 11:31 AM
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Hmmmm... I don't hear any of the typical leak noises from the pedal inside the car when engine is running. Must be more likely the check valve then.

I was told that original owner had replaced the booster and it was evidenced by a non-functioning cruise control (brake switch adjustment) and mal-functioning sports seats (from seat removal, air pump hose disconnected and lft/right harness swapped). OO was deceased at time of purchase.
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Old Oct 20, 2009 | 08:25 PM
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Originally Posted by carllangford
Here's the symptom(s): With foot on pedal and engine running pedal feels fine. If I shut off the engine with foot on pedal the pedal immediately goes hard. Also I seem to notice that sometimes the ABS does not make the self test noise in which case I have a hard brake pedal when driving. If the self-test occurs the pedal seems softer.

Any ideas?

1994 coupe
***************************
...sound like it could be the vacuum booster hose or CHECK VALVE.
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Old Oct 20, 2009 | 10:01 PM
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I found the check-valve (12521454) several places but it seems the grommet (14067550) has been discontinued. Do you suppose you can swap out just the valve? I'm assuming here it's just the valve, and they're cheap.
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Old Oct 20, 2009 | 10:04 PM
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Originally Posted by carllangford
I found the check-valve (12521454) several places but it seems the grommet (14067550) has been discontinued. Do you suppose you can swap out just the valve? I'm assuming here it's just the valve, and they're cheap.
*********************
...just pull out the valve CAREFULLY and then inspect the grommet for tears, etc...the valve can be replaced by itself.....
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Old Oct 25, 2009 | 10:57 AM
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Originally Posted by pcolt94
When shutting the engine off you should be able to get 3 soft pedals before it get hard, and a vacuum sound as you depress the pedal. If you don’t get that, the booster sounds like it has a leak or the check valve is bad.

The ABS check sounds like another problem.
I have been told this by another vette owner on here!
So i tried it with my 90 c4, well i only got 1 and a bit presses before it went hard!
and the only time i hear the vacuum sound is when the engine is running and i push the pedal!

I thought this to be strange as it's going against what other are saying should be the case!

So i tried my brakes in a 98 commodore and (with engine off) i got 1 press before pedal went hard, and vacuum noise when pressing it when engine on! (same as the vette)
also i tried a brand new ute and the same thing happenen!

So its seems that a hard pedal should result after 1 press with engine off! and the vacuum(hissing noise) is normal while engine on!


After saying this my c4 pedal needs to be pushed about 1/3 of it's travel before begining to brake! and even then it requires some effort to pull the car up! my guess is it needs bleeding!
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Old Oct 25, 2009 | 11:20 AM
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Sounds like someone slipped a viagra pill in the brake fluid.
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Old Oct 26, 2009 | 09:02 AM
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Originally Posted by Phantom_Vette1
I have been told this by another vette owner on here!
So i tried it with my 90 c4, well i only got 1 and a bit presses before it went hard!
and the only time i hear the vacuum sound is when the engine is running and i push the pedal!

I thought this to be strange as it's going against what other are saying should be the case!

So i tried my brakes in a 98 commodore and (with engine off) i got 1 press before pedal went hard, and vacuum noise when pressing it when engine on! (same as the vette)
also i tried a brand new ute and the same thing happenen!

So its seems that a hard pedal should result after 1 press with engine off! and the vacuum(hissing noise) is normal while engine on!


After saying this my c4 pedal needs to be pushed about 1/3 of it's travel before begining to brake! and even then it requires some effort to pull the car up! my guess is it needs bleeding!
I wish I could take the credit for some revelation of a great technical idea, opinion or discovery. For this tid bit of information has been around since the 60s at least ever since power brakes have been developed. Its pretty common knowledge for thousands of Forum members, as well as millions of other people that have worked on cars.

This feature was built into the brake systems for safety where if the engine died you would not loose you ability to stop the car immediately and would have a reserve of vacuum to give you 2-3 good pumps of braking. This is why there is a check valve to hold the vacuum in the booster. With every pump the pedal does get harder until you deplete the reserve vacuum at pump 4 or so depending on depth of pedal travel and other specific factors.

When the engine runs and you push the brake you can hear a whoosh or vacuum being released. However there is a difference in sound between a normal sound of a booster and one with a vacuum leak from the diaphragm.

If you are experiencing something much different perhaps there is a problem.
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Old Oct 27, 2009 | 09:53 AM
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pcolt94: Okay i have never really got into the braking side of things, i have preferred to have a professional take care of these things! not knowing what i am doing is not that safe, and brakes are very important!
The only reason i have begun to investigate the vettes brakes, is because they don't feel good at all and i know they should be better, so it got me interested in comparing them with other car's brake systems!

And as you say that the 3x pedal thing, before it loses vacuum is normal, well i have found that every system i have checked with concern to engine off and the amount of times the pedal can be depressed, is 1 and a bit! I have checked the vette, a 10 year old car and a new car! all the same!

So if it is common knowledge between members on this forum that it should be 3 presses, then i'm stumped!
I'm not saying that they are all wrong, but maybe, just maybe their cars have a stuffed check valve/booster?

My pedal with engine on is definately not hard, it feels ok just doesn't pull the car up very quickly unless a descent amount of pedal effort is used!
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Old Oct 27, 2009 | 10:33 AM
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Phantom, If you depress the pedal as far as it will go with the engine off.......then you may get less pumps.

Others may just pump it a bit and get three pumps. but if you are pumping iron at that gym and then pushing that pedal....that may explain the difference.

I'm just guessing.
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Old Oct 27, 2009 | 10:49 AM
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Originally Posted by Phantom_Vette1
After saying this my c4 pedal needs to be pushed about 1/3 of it's travel before begining to brake! and even then it requires some effort to pull the car up! my guess is it needs bleeding!
Originally Posted by Phantom_Vette1
My pedal with engine on is definately not hard, it feels ok just doesn't pull the car up very quickly unless a descent amount of pedal effort is used!
Ok, What ever findings you having I’m sure is true as you are experiencing them. But aside from that, the brake pedal does travel some distance (maybe 1/3) before it does start to engage. It’s hard to say if your pedal is the same as others however if the actuator rod in the booster is grossly out of adjustment in might then be engaging to low. However it sounds like your probably OK.

If you don’t know by now than C4s have brake issues. Getting good braking and stopping power can be a problem. After replacing many things in my own car and upgrading the brake system seems like the pad material is a bigger factor than other cars. Last pad I went with was the Hawk HPS which did not work out as I expected although others like them. I ended up with (month ago) Brembo pads which really work well for me. I can really stop quick get rubber squeal and activate the ABS.

If you want to bleed the brakes fine or even replace the fluid. But air in a system will really give you a sponge feel. It never helped me because I never had air. My solution was to find the right or better pads.
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Old Oct 28, 2009 | 03:09 AM
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jhammons01: LOL yes i am talking about full depresses of the pedal!

pcolt97: yes i have come to learn that the brakes aren't as good as had expected(especially for a sports car)

I too think the pedal and rod adjustment seems fine! and it doesn't seem spongy, i am guessing the Previous owner used cheapish pads and/or just haven't bedded in properly!
In Australia on my other cars i use Bendix!, they seem to be a good pad, not too cheap, not too $$$$
I will try to source some to fit the vette brakes!

thanks for your help
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Old Nov 14, 2009 | 09:17 AM
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Hard pedal and hissing from the brake pedal area is FOR SURE signs of a bad booster. But to go a little further, taking away the hissing part, how do identify a bad master cylinder vs booster. I have heard othat pump the brakes with motor off, hold down pedal then start engine, if booster is good then pedal should THEN depress further as your foot is still holding pressure. Also, anyone have a pic they can post of the booster valve your talking about replacing (and the discontinued grommet)? thx!
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Old Nov 15, 2009 | 06:36 AM
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Originally Posted by Phantom_Vette1
So its seems that a hard pedal should result after 1 press with engine off! and the vacuum(hissing noise) is normal while engine on!!
A leaking booster will hiss. A good booster must not. I changed out my bad one years ago and I have zero hiss. You should have no hiss when braking while driving. The only thing a hiss from a booster is, is a vacuum leak.

Originally Posted by Phantom_Vette1
also i tried a brand new ute and the same thing happenen!
What's "ute"?

Originally Posted by Phantom_Vette1
After saying this my c4 pedal needs to be pushed about 1/3 of it's travel before begining to brake! and even then it requires some effort to pull the car up! my guess is it needs bleeding!
There is a rod adjustment that needs to be made when replacing the booster. If out of adjustment you end up with what you describe.
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Old Nov 23, 2009 | 10:52 AM
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Default Hard brake pedal/very little brakes!

I jumped in my 93 C4 and to my surprise I could hardly come to a stop.

I had to press very hard to get it to slow to a stop.

Is this a booster problem?
Thanks
Herb
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Old Nov 23, 2009 | 11:21 AM
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For a '93, and if it happened over night......there is a ABS computer reset technique that I would look at primarily.

I don't know how to do it as I have an '84....but there are many threads on the topic.

ABS Codes....or something like that.
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