Forged internals. My AFR heads are basically stock dimension heads so if it fits on the stock heads, it should bolt on.

http://web.archive.org/web/200710210...erlisting.html

 

I wouldn't go with a carburetor unless you are that uncomfortable with the newer stuff. If it is a track car where you have 2 speeds, idle and WOT, maybe. Otherwise, I prefer fuel injection for daily drivers. Carburetors might be simpler from the standpoint that you don't have to understand relationships between this sensor and that but there is definitely a price to pay. If you need more or less fuel at a certain point or more spark or less spark, you are SOL. It doesn't have that level of adjustablility. Kinda like the kids that turn up the timing by advancing the distributor. Great. Now everything is X degrees advanced. If it doesn't need advance at that point, too bad. It is being advanced.

 

for 5gs you can get a ZZ383 and put a stealth ram on it

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/NAL-12498772/

 

mmm so many choices. I am definitely sticking with FI for the simple reason I would like to be able to drive it around....besides the cold nature of most carb vehicles

 

Firts off the 87+ block is almost identicle to the LT1 block. It is a roler cam small block with essentially the exact same specs. Second the only thing that will explode with big HP on your L98 is the same parts that will explode on a LT1. Yes there are a few parts that are definitly not as good. Third the reason why people switch to the LT1 intake and top end configuration(yes that is all that makes it a LT1) is because the L98 is choked to about the 4500 RPM range. That being said there are plenty of parts that will make your L98 very happily spin to 6000 and still be making some decent #'s. You have to consider what you are going to do with the car. Is it a daily driver, or is it a race car. If it is a daily driver then there is no reason why you need to spin it to 7000 RPM to make HP. The L98 is a long runner intake and top end package(yes thats all that makes it a L98) which produces wicked amounts of low end torque. If you expand on that you will have a longer power range, and a really nice streetable car. I have a built TPI car that makes 408hp and 536ftlbs, and I assure you it cost me less to build than it would have a LT1(not in all cases). I am not saying the LT1 intake is garbage, because that would be terribly ignorant. If you look at Nelson Racing's web site, alot of there big # screamer small block engines are using LT1 style intakes.

 

I am going for a nice streetable car with enough power to have some fun at the track for de's

 

I grenaded my l98, the last day I was to have it out for the year, and I am really considering doing a lt1 transplant in my 1986. the only ptoblem I am concerned about is the electronics (dash, electronic climate, ABS) all have me concerned, along with changing to a newer style lt1 era radiator.

 

Why? just get a miniram it is easier all the way around.

 

This would definitely be a nice combo.
However, here are a couple of things you could do to cut cost: 30lb Ford injectors, and cheaper heads that still flow great. Which is about exactly how I did my setup.

I went with a Holley Stealth Ram, 30lb Ford injectors (which equate to 34lb injectors in a chevy; they are cheap and easy to find), I am running 200cc Protopline Aluminum heads (I think Holley /Lunati took them over, but they are a lot cheaper than AFR and flow very similar, if not better). I did this very cam, called the XR282, I believe, from Comp cams....I love it, I installed it at 0 degrees with a double true roller timing set from Summit....I also put retrofit roller hydraulic lifters in to match the cam. TPIS long tube headers -YES, I also love them. Exhaust - tricky...I decided to stick with stock, and put cutouts after the collectors in the front Y-pipe. That way, I can still have the cat, and quite on the street. (I did dual Thrush glasspacks for awhile....they sounded great, but I can't stand driving it for more than 2 hours now).

With this intake you'll have to either get the special Holley stealth ram plenum, talked about on this forum, or cut a hole in your hood and put a scoop on it (I went with the scoop option). You can see in my thumbnail, I also made a custom airbox and used the scoop to suck in air to it, keeping the intake off the ground. A warning: I went through my 4+3 tranny in a hurry, then I installed a 700R4 with shift kit and a 2800 stall converter....that lasted about 6 months before the clutches started slipping. I had to go to a ZF 6 speed swap, b/c it was the only thing that would take the horsepower, and then of course, that made me have to go to 3.75 rear end gears. Oh ya, and all those engine mods will need a tunable ECU, like the Holley 950 Commander Pro, which has been very realible and comes with a brand new wiring harness. It never ends. Once you start modifying....well, it just has to be a hobby! But, I enjoy the heck out of it.

 

I used a calculator similar to the one here and came out with about 36 to 40 pph for injectors at 80% duty cycle.

I think the first 383 I had was the turnkey one from LPE with the 219 cam. Wiped out a stock trans in 6 months. Had a Rossler trans that lasted 3.5 years with me beating on it several times a day on a daily basis unless there was snow on the ground. I also went to 3.45 gears.

Why is that? I had mine dyno tuned and unless the setup was changed, why would you need another ECM?

 

Alot of people drop in a new motor instead of building up there L98 because they can get a crate motor for the same price or just a little more then it would cost to do all the mods to there motor.. When my L98 goes I will be putting in a ZZ4, 355 hp, forged crank,and a whole lot less work then building it myself, and I can get a longblock for $3,249.95.. To keep near the 355 hp you have to upgrade to a different intake, but you would have to do that anyway on a build up. It also comes with a 3 year warranty, if I build it myself Im on my own.It all depends on what you want, alot of guys like doing motor work and enjoy the process..WW

 

From what I have seen, they come with Powdered Metal Rods and Hyper-eutectic pistons. I'd rather go with a completely forged assembly if I were replacing my engine. Also, I think you can get better than the L98 heads.

 

 

i have no idea what im going to make but i went crazy and im doing :

- 0.30 over L98 Block
- Flat top Hypereutectics
- AFR 195 Heads
- Hedman Longtube headers
- Lingenfelter 219 Cam
- Gold Crane 1.6 Roller Rockers
- Comp cams double roller timing set
- Super Ram/Accel Base
- 24 lb injectors
- Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator

I expect 420ish chp...

 

take pics of your build

 

will do !