Before you ask, I've read all the threads

My '91 will not start when hot (after a long drive), it 'clicks' but no crank.

I'm pretty sure it's not the VATS, tried all those tricksbe and no difference.

I am almost positive it's the starter/solenoid, but before changing them, I saw a post or two about a starter relay.

Could that possibly cause a no crank when hot problem?

 

I'd say not the VATS....or relay it wouldn't even click if that was the case. More than likely you have a heat soaked starter. You might want to have the battery in the car load tested/ checked then check the terminals for tightness from the battery to the starter itself. If the problem continues swap the starter out or give it a "tap" test with a 2X4 the next time it hangs up.

 

I'm betting on the starter....I like the tap test, but I usually use a pipe or something a little more solid than a 2X4. If it were the relay you wouldn't get the "click".

 

for the advice, I'll have to put a big hammer in the back now ;-)

Can you reach the starter to give it the 'raps' from the top or do you have to crawl underneath? I guess a few good raps on the housing will free the 'stuck' hardware?

 

If your going straight to the hammer route...you'll have to get under there and look what your going to hit. Careful what you hit under there. One or two blows tops...then try to crank it again.

 

Gotta watch what you're hitting. Don't short out the terminals. You could get a heat wrap shield and put it around the starter. Summit sells such an item. It's sort of a bag that fits over the starter. This should cure your ills.

 

this it?

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/DEI-010402/

 

The clicking you hear is the starter solenoid pulling in. The starter motor doesn't crank the engine for one or more of several reasons. First, measure the battery terminal voltage with the ign in crank position. If it drops dramatically, you may have a battery at the end of its life or a poor battery cable connection. Remove the battery cables (neg first) and clean the cable lugs, bolts and battery terminals and replace the cables (neg last). Measure the battery terminal voltage under no load, you can tell the state of charge this way. 12.9 v and above, fully charged and 12.0 v and lower, discharged and linear in between. If discharged, charge the battery up. Another reason and the most likely, are burned contacts inside the starter motor. At the end of the starter solenoid stroke, two large copper contacts are forced together that switch current to the starter motor. These contacts get blackened and pitted and eventually will not make a good enough connection to pass the 100+ amps the starter motor requires. If you keep hitting crank over and over and the starter finally cranks the engine, then the copper contacts are your problem. I had this problem several years ago, it took 20 tries to get the starter to crank. You can replace the contacts if you want to repair the starter, otherwise replace the starter.
The only relay in the starting circuit is the start enable relay and if it were defective you wouldn't hear the starter solenoid click.

 

If starter clicks it's getting voltage at the solenoid, so it's not VATS. Large L98 starters are dirt cheap. It's always been the starter solenoid whenever I've had this problem on my cars. On the L98 the easiest way to tap it is with some long extensions from the top. Tap at the solenoid. These things are dirt cheap though, so you might as well just replace it as a unit. I bought my current starter like 7 years ago at Advanced Auto for $35. Still cranks great to this day.

 

Yup, that's the baby. If your problem is a hot start problem, I would go with this.