Pass Door Interior Light Switch question
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 538
Likes: 0
From: Orlando FL
Pass Door Interior Light Switch question
My 95 LT1's Passenger Door has been giving me a headache. The switch that's for the interior lights isn't working right. I sprayed it down with some electrical cleaner and it worked for about a month. Now it's back to it's old games and seems to be not working right.
Usually just replacing the switch take care of the problem? How the heck do these go bad? All they do is go in and out.
Usually just replacing the switch take care of the problem? How the heck do these go bad? All they do is go in and out.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 5,043
Likes: 8
From: Tampa Florida
If the switch is not worn out/down from age/use there is also the possibility that water water has gotten into the switch over the years and caused contact issues. Using contact cleaner on a plastic enclosed switch is a bad idea as it can crack the plastic or make the plastic switch body brittle and/or fragile. I'd replace the switch at this point.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 773
Likes: 2
From: Minneapolis MN
My 95 LT1's Passenger Door has been giving me a headache. The switch that's for the interior lights isn't working right. I sprayed it down with some electrical cleaner and it worked for about a month. Now it's back to it's old games and seems to be not working right.
Usually just replacing the switch take care of the problem? How the heck do these go bad? All they do is go in and out.
Usually just replacing the switch take care of the problem? How the heck do these go bad? All they do is go in and out.
Last edited by 94vettelover2; Nov 3, 2009 at 03:34 PM.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 773
Likes: 2
From: Minneapolis MN
Plus it will have that nice smell insideAfter that some nice racing seats covered in suede or similar type of fabric(synthetic).
Want my car to be alittle different.I love this car & plan on keeping it forever-this is unusual as I get sick of cars quickly,but these later C4s are awesome(my opinion & no disrespect to other C4 owners).I love everything about my car except chassis stiffness which I partly addressed.
After that some nice racing seats covered in suede or similar type of fabric(synthetic).Want my car to be alittle different.I love this car & plan on keeping it forever-this is unusual as I get sick of cars quickly,but these later C4s are awesome(my opinion & no disrespect to other C4 owners).I love everything about my car except chassis stiffness which I partly addressed.
Drifting
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,363
Likes: 7
From: 1994 LT1 Coupe 6-speed with FX3 & 2000 LS1 Vert 6-Speed with F45 Hunterdon County, NJ
My 95 LT1's Passenger Door has been giving me a headache. The switch that's for the interior lights isn't working right. I sprayed it down with some electrical cleaner and it worked for about a month. Now it's back to it's old games and seems to be not working right.
Usually just replacing the switch take care of the problem? How the heck do these go bad? All they do is go in and out.
Usually just replacing the switch take care of the problem? How the heck do these go bad? All they do is go in and out.
with previous member on all points, they are very poorly made... Suggest trying the NAPA brand as I had same problems with the ACDelco brand.Also, suggest replacing both door switches as if passenger side is bad, driver side isn't far behind, especially since the alarm and the PKE system depends on both switches operating correctly.
Good news though, the switches can be replaced WITHOUT taking the door apart. They can be replaced right through their hole -- procedure is in the FSM or post back and we'll type it out for you...
Last thought, once installed, only GENTLY close the door so that it self adjusts the adjustable 'nose' (i.e. don't slam the door), but if it pushes in too far, a couple of small rubber o-rings (napa again) will keep it sticking out -- also only lube the switches with vaseline, anything else will swell the plastic and increase the sticking of the plunger.
Last edited by theadmiral94; Nov 3, 2009 at 11:13 PM.
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Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 538
Likes: 0
From: Orlando FL
how do you install without removing the door panel? There's a gasket behind my switch that is a pain in the a** to get back flush so the screws will start into it.
I'll have to hit Napa up!!!
I'll have to hit Napa up!!!
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 773
Likes: 2
From: Minneapolis MN
There is a plate that the screws screw into that can fall onto bottom of door that is located on other side(inside door).This is what I remember.Napa does have some good parts,knowedgeable people & products.I'm sure those FSMs are nice to have & I plan on getting one someday but its better in my opinion to ask people here who have done the projects/questions you are asking.
Drifting
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,363
Likes: 7
From: 1994 LT1 Coupe 6-speed with FX3 & 2000 LS1 Vert 6-Speed with F45 Hunterdon County, NJ
'Door Ajar Indicator Switch' Removal (94 FSM 10-6-7)
The procedure is pretty easy and once you read it below you'll likely say 'oh dah'...
The bracket behind/inside the door is a metal bracket which is threaded to receive the screws from the switch and only need be loosely held in place during replacement to prevent it from sliding down the switch's wire forcing door dis-assembly to retrieve.
1. Remove lower screw. Replace with a longer screw (e.g. GM P/N 11503397 or equivalent) started (screwed) into retainer to hold retainer from dropping into door.
2. Remove upper screw.
3. Pull switch (slightly) outward and rotate switch to expose upper screw hole.
4. Reinstall upper screw to hold retainer.
5. Remove (longer) lower screw.
6. Pull switch outward and depress (but don't disconnect) harness lock tab to allow passage of switch and harness through the openning (gently work it out, try to not damage fiberglass or paint as the size of the hole is 'just' enough to all the electrical connector to pass through it).
6. Remove (unplug) switch from harness.
To install, reverse above procedure.
The bracket behind/inside the door is a metal bracket which is threaded to receive the screws from the switch and only need be loosely held in place during replacement to prevent it from sliding down the switch's wire forcing door dis-assembly to retrieve.
1. Remove lower screw. Replace with a longer screw (e.g. GM P/N 11503397 or equivalent) started (screwed) into retainer to hold retainer from dropping into door.
2. Remove upper screw.
3. Pull switch (slightly) outward and rotate switch to expose upper screw hole.
4. Reinstall upper screw to hold retainer.
5. Remove (longer) lower screw.
6. Pull switch outward and depress (but don't disconnect) harness lock tab to allow passage of switch and harness through the openning (gently work it out, try to not damage fiberglass or paint as the size of the hole is 'just' enough to all the electrical connector to pass through it).
6. Remove (unplug) switch from harness.
To install, reverse above procedure.
