SO Im pulling the engine.
Nov 8, 2009 | 06:28 PM
Thread Starter
Team Owner
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SO Im pulling the engine.
Yall got me paranoid...
So I pulled the car around to the driveway so I can do it on concrete.
Never pulled an engine out of a C4, how much fun is it to get to all the bellhousing bolts? And where is the best way to hook the hoist up to what is essentially a shortblock?
Looks like a tight fit between the crank pulley and the steering rack...I guess just hoist it steep front first?
Im really going to need some help getting all the hoses and wiring re-routed when I go to put it back together...what a birds nest.
At Summit, what Eagle Street or Street/strip balanced rotating assembly should i look at getting? Im guessing a cast crank, I beam rods, etc will be more than enough for what Im doing.
Nov 8, 2009 | 06:31 PM
Racer
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 389
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From: Howard Beach, NY
theyre not bad when i did mine i went from behind with 3' of extensions for some of them
Nov 8, 2009 | 06:34 PM
Race Director
Joined: Jan 2005
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From: Slidell Louisiana
Quote:
Originally Posted by
DrEvil11417
theyre not bad when i did mine i went from behind with 3' of extensions for some of them
3' extension with a swivel socket makes removing the bell housing bolts relatively simpe.
The TPIS happy hooker is supposed to work with your L98 as it does on my LT1
http://www.tpis.com/index.php?module...y=Happy+Hooker
Best 50 dollar tool I've ever bought it allows me to pull/install my engine whole (even with long tube EM headers)
Mike
Last edited by aboatguy; Nov 8, 2009 at 06:42 PM .
Nov 8, 2009 | 06:51 PM
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 8,838
Likes: 31
From: Australia
Quote:
Originally Posted by
RED-85-Z51
Looks like a tight fit between the crank pulley and the steering rack...I guess just hoist it steep front first?
Crank pulley has to come off to allow to block to come foward off the dowels into trans.Watch hitting the plastic wiper motor cover on the way up ; many have done it
Quote:
Originally Posted by
RED-85-Z51
Im really going to need some help getting all the hoses and wiring re-routed when I go to put it back together...what a birds nest.
Take lots of pics
Nov 8, 2009 | 07:00 PM
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Why are you buying a rotating assembly? If you are freshening it, rings, bearings and gaskets are what you need.
Nov 8, 2009 | 07:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by
Pete K
Why are you buying a rotating assembly? If you are freshening it, rings, bearings and gaskets are what you need.
If Im going through the BS of pulling the block, no way Im putting back the old crank, rods, pistons, etc..
besides, 650-750 isnt bad for a crank, rods, rings, bearings, etc..
Ill go ahead and have the block cleaned, have it bored out, new cam bearings put in, new oil pump..
What's a good oil pump, cam bearings, etc that wont break the bank.
Nov 8, 2009 | 07:31 PM
Thread Starter
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 2003
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Quote:
Originally Posted by
aboatguy
3' extension with a swivel socket makes removing the bell housing bolts relatively simpe.
The TPIS happy hooker is supposed to work with your L98 as it does on my LT1
http://www.tpis.com/index.php?module...y=Happy+Hooker
Best 50 dollar tool I've ever bought it allows me to pull/install my engine whole (even with long tube EM headers)
Mike
Looks like they would bolt in where the 4 fuel rail bolts are in the L98 intake manifold. My intake and heads are off though.
Ill find some bolts to hook too, might make a bracket that goes into a few head bolt holes or something.
Nov 8, 2009 | 07:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by
RED-85-Z51
If Im going through the BS of pulling the block, no way Im putting back the old crank, rods, pistons, etc..
besides, 650-750 isnt bad for a crank, rods, rings, bearings, etc..
Ill go ahead and have the block cleaned, have it bored out, new cam bearings put in, new oil pump..
What's a good oil pump, cam bearings, etc that wont break the bank.
Send me your old used up stuff.
Melling Select Pump
Clevite bearings.
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Nov 8, 2009 | 07:50 PM
Race Director
Joined: Jan 2005
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From: Slidell Louisiana
Quote:
Originally Posted by
Pete K
Send me your old used up stuff.
Melling Select Pump
Clevite bearings.
I believe Pete is trying to infer that your factory rotating assembly is much better than a cheap aftermarket one
Nov 8, 2009 | 07:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by
aboatguy
I believe Pete is trying to infer that your factory rotating assembly is much better than a cheap aftermarket one
Well heck...
If I keep the stock crank, Id at least want to replace the rods and pistons, I have to replace the pistons if I overbore it.
I figured...155K miles..rotating assembly must be about worn out..
Nov 8, 2009 | 07:57 PM
Race Director
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Quote:
Originally Posted by
RED-85-Z51
Well heck...
If I keep the stock crank, Id at least want to replace the rods and pistons, I have to replace the pistons if I overbore it.
I figured...155K miles..rotating assembly must be about worn out..
Don't throw away the old stuff. I would take it off your hands.
Nov 8, 2009 | 08:05 PM
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2000
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From: Australia
Quote:
Originally Posted by
RED-85-Z51
Ill find some bolts to hook too, might make a bracket that goes into a few head bolt holes or something.
Length of chain off the head bolts works for me
Nov 8, 2009 | 08:12 PM
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Holy hell, just priced rods and pistons from Lunati...I think the original rods will be fine..
Nov 8, 2009 | 08:23 PM
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2006
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From: Phoenix AZ
2021 C4 of the Year - Modified Finalist
I'll take what Pete doesn't get...................I need a crank for a spare block
Nov 8, 2009 | 08:26 PM
Race Director
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 10,641
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From: Slidell Louisiana
Quote:
Originally Posted by
RED-85-Z51
Holy hell, just priced rods and pistons from Lunati...I think the original rods will be fine..
Check out SCAT for rods and MAHLE power pack for your pistons and rings
Nov 8, 2009 | 08:44 PM
Drifting
Joined: Nov 1999
Posts: 1,502
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From: Yorktown Heights NY
Pulled mine out on my back with car up on heavy duty jackstands in my driveway after I sent #2 into the oil pan with a little nitrous foopa back in May of 2000.....
And here is proof I got it out all in one piece with the crank pully still in place. Note the special jig on the engine that allows you to tilt the engine to get it out....very important extra $50 tool
Nov 8, 2009 | 09:06 PM
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Team Owner
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That little doodad on there looks like it really comes in handy, Ive seen em, I just dont remember where.
Ill have to check Harbor Freight.
Nov 8, 2009 | 09:34 PM
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 2,141
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From: Pittsburgh Pa
Quote:
Originally Posted by
aboatguy
check out scat for rods and mahle power pack for your pistons and rings
+1.
Nov 8, 2009 | 09:48 PM
Safety Car
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 3,531
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From: Conroe TEXAS!
Cruise-In X Veteran
Quote:
Originally Posted by
RED-85-Z51
Looks like they would bolt in where the 4 fuel rail bolts are in the L98 intake manifold. My intake and heads are off though.
Ill find some bolts to hook too, might make a bracket that goes into a few head bolt holes or something.
What I did...used the old head bolts.
Nov 8, 2009 | 10:00 PM
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 2,141
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From: Pittsburgh Pa