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okay, heres an easy one ...
as I replaced my coil , i noticed on the coil bracket a type of module IS THIS MY ELECTRONIC IGNITION MODULE.. i have no fire still after replacing my coil ...Anyone ?
96 LT1
Last edited by ol school; Nov 8, 2009 at 10:08 PM.
okay, heres an easy one ...
as I replaced my coil , i noticed on the coil bracket a type of module IS THIS MY ELECTRONIC IGNITION MODULE.. i have no fire still after replacing my coil ...Anyone ?
96 LT1
That's your ICM (IGNITION CONTROL MODULE).I don't think thats going to help your no fire condition.
My experience when the ICM has failed in my car.It will still start but not run right.Like the timing is off.But maybe it can cause a no start condition.It just did'nt for me.
Actually that might be your problem. My '93 quit while going down the road at 70 mph recently. It created a no start condition- Engine would turn over, had fuel, but no fire. I took the ICM off, took it to the parts house and had it tested- there was the problem. $85 later, the car was running great!
That's your ICM (IGNITION CONTROL MODULE).I don't think thats going to help your no fire condition.
Originally Posted by MK 82
Why not?
The ICM is just an amplifier that takes 5 volt p-p signal and makes 70 volt p-p signal to drive the coil. The ICM can go bad in any number of ways. If it totally crapes out, then there is no drive for the coil hence no spark. It can go bad with heat and shut down the engine or cause poor running. Intermittent starting and probably other strange things.
However the important thing here is to find out if the ICM is getting proper drive voltage. If the drive is there from the PCM and there is no spark, the ICM could definitely be bad given those circumstances. IMHO the ICM is a much higher failure item than the coil.
That's your ICM (IGNITION CONTROL MODULE).I don't think thats going to help your no fire condition.
did some research on this mystery part..
your close, but its actualy called "Ignition Coil Module"
i may replace this weather it fixes it or not, 150,000 plus miles it cant hurt..
I may replace this weather it fixes it or not, 150,000 plus miles it cant hurt..
Sounds logical and makes perfect sense.
However with all the people who have had problems with these ICMs having to change them frequently, there are a lot of new ICMs on the market that are not holding up.
If you got one that is good, I would stay with it due to its track record. If one of those can hold up for years and is good and still works under those conditions, seems like it might be good to stick with.
All I am saying is that a new one might not be as good as a used one in the long run.
Having said allll that stuffff, I have my own good original ICM as a spare.
Sounds logical and makes perfect sense.
However with all the people who have had problems with these ICMs having to change them frequently, there are a lot of new ICMs on the market that are not holding up.
If you got one that is good, I would stay with it due to its track record. If one of those can hold up for years and is good and still works under those conditions, seems like it might be good to stick with.
All I am saying is that a new one might not be as good as a used one in the long run.
Having said allll that stuffff, I have my own good original ICM as a spare.
YEA I HAVE SAVED EVERY SINGLE PART THAT I HAVE REPLACED, UNLESS OBVIOUSLY NO GOOD...
Is there a way of chkn the ICM?
I have heard on the Forum that part stores like AutoZone and others can check the ICM. Don’t know if all the stores have that capability. This is just what I have read never have explored that personally myself.
If they could do a basic functional check, for your basic problem that might be a valuably piece of information. What they can’t do is test them over a heat range or a perhaps an intermittent running condition. It might be worth the effort if you can get a test.
Of course there is nothing like having a spare just to try one. You can just switch over the plug and not even mount it just to see if there is a difference. Don’t run it for any length of time it does get hot fast and it won’t be heat-sinked.
My local Autozone tested mine for me. As pcolt94 says, though, it was just a basic "pass or fail" test. I hope you get your problem sorted out, it's a shame to have a 'vette that's inoperable. the two weeks mine was down killed me.
Strange, pcolt was nice enough to post this here in your other thread about the same thing, and you've ignored both. It's not hard to check it yourself, definitely easier than taking it off and driving to Autozone. At some point you're going to have to do a little work yourself instead of hoping the nice folks on the forum come over and fix it for you.
Otherwise go to a dealership and pay to have it fixed.
Last edited by ScaryFast; Nov 12, 2009 at 04:51 PM.
The ICM is just an amplifier that takes 5 volt p-p signal and makes 70 volt p-p signal to drive the coil. The ICM can go bad in any number of ways. If it totally crapes out, then there is no drive for the coil hence no spark. It can go bad with heat and shut down the engine or cause poor running. Intermittent starting and probably other strange things.
However the important thing here is to find out if the ICM is getting proper drive voltage. If the drive is there from the PCM and there is no spark, the ICM could definitely be bad given those circumstances. IMHO the ICM is a much higher failure item than the coil.
Are you serious? Try reading the answers to your questions.
Strange, pcolt was nice enough to post this here in your other thread about the same thing, and you've ignored both. It's not hard to check it yourself, definitely easier than taking it off and driving to Autozone. At some point you're going to have to do a little work yourself instead of hoping the nice folks on the forum come over and fix it for you.
Otherwise go to a dealership and pay to have it fixed.
I did the chk, it was my ICM, and FYI !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! my car has never been to a dealership.. i do my own work from opti , window guide , fuel pump, injectors,brake job, head replacement, and plenty more , and i also have had nice CF frens that have guided me with there experiance of already doing 1 or more of the jobs i have done..
BUT THANKS FOR YOUR CONCERN !
My local Autozone tested mine for me. As pcolt94 says, though, it was just a basic "pass or fail" test. I hope you get your problem sorted out, it's a shame to have a 'vette that's inoperable. the two weeks mine was down killed me.
are you kidding , it is my DD and i overheated it MY FAULT i didnt change a leaky water pump, and warped the heads .it was down for 2 months, the i got it running, it lasted 3 days then died in the driveway.it's been sitting for 10 days replacing this and that. tonight i replaced the ICM and BAM! it started, yea so tomorrow i wash her up just in time for the weekend.. YES I KILLED ME...!!
Actually that might be your problem. My '93 quit while going down the road at 70 mph recently. It created a no start condition- Engine would turn over, had fuel, but no fire. I took the ICM off, took it to the parts house and had it tested- there was the problem. $85 later, the car was running great!
Thanks I replaced mine tonight , it cranked right up..
My experience when the ICM has failed in my car.It will still start but not run right.Like the timing is off.But maybe it can cause a no start condition.It just did'nt for me.
Indeed, Autozone can test these for free. On some cars, these things are several hundred dollars to just be guessing. And some places won't accept returns on any electrical parts if you guess wrong.