http://www.superchevy.com/technical/...ion/index.html

I read the superchevy version of close to 500hp and over 500ftlbs o torque. What do you guys think of that setup?

Um looking for a budget to reach 400-500hp. Um tired of people only think that dropping a ls1 or ls2 is worth it over modding up an older chevy motor. Pump gas, street driven, couple hits at the strip, 6000rpm, and mostly offroaded i basically want a 12-13sec street vehicle and a torquey offroader . I have a 89 cherokee with an l98 in it with a nv4500 tranny 5spd with stg2 centerforce clutch. If you need more info on it let me know or pics. My friend has been in and out of 302's, i know, damn fords, but i want to do all the work myself and wanted to start collecting parts and um sure he can help. This is not a dd by the way.

So it would half to have a broad cam. Able to be lugged at 1500rpm sometimes with out cam surge and still be ringed out and make power to 6000rpm for races. This isnt your typical v8 jeep that has a ridiculous huge tires and lift kit. It has a mild lift and 31's.
What is the best way to go? 383, heads, cam, intake, tb, crank, rod, rocker, management?

 

Hard call to get both from same engine.Cam required to get 500hp won't be happy at low revs

 

how low can i rev with it still being happy?

 

I hope to come close to 500 hp with my current build. I will probably fall a wee bit short, but it should make tons of torque.
Take a look at the link below, and notice I have put prices on everything.

http://www.corvette-guru.com/modules...post_id=108029

 

12's is not that hard. Mine ran 12.9 this summer and I've put hardly anything into it. Ported SR intake, ported stock heads, stock cam, headers, took out some extra weight. See my sig..

 

But he wants to do it a Jeep used "mostly offroaded"

 

your exhaust will smell so bad at idle, you wont want to drive it. (assuming you have a stickshift, if you auto, you wont idle without an ultra-high stall, low MPG, torque converter).

If you run cats, they may quickly clog up.

I know Im not answering your question, but consider this:

IMHO, 383 is a waste of money, reuse your old crank, go 355 cu. in, put some ported AFR heads on it, put in a moderate cam, forged pistons, strong rods, plan on compression around 9.5:1, longtube headers, and boost it. Run an 8 rib setup (contact blowerworks.net) and 12 to 14 psi boost. You will have a streetable setup that you will be happy.

stroker motors, and gears was what you built 20 years ago if you wanted to race.

Im a big fan of forced induction. Build something forged, strong. Big engine builders have the following saying: if its not blown, it sucks.

 

I think this is the first time I've ever heard someone tell me "it's a waste of time to go with more cubic inches"...

Dude, if you've got an "additional" $6,000-10,000 to supercharge it, go for it! lol... otherwise, if you're like EVERYONE else (on a budget) build it like everyone else has over the last two decades (tried and true).

NA means less things to go wrong.

Get AS MANY cubic inches out of it as possible! 383, 396, 400...

A decent set of heads (195cc head would be a great compromise, support bottom-end, mid-range, and top-end).

A solid-roller cam "might" be in your interest (since it's not a daily driver). The solid-roller combo should make a bit better power. Although I'll leave the cam-profile specs to the experts.

Just change out your final drive gearing to give you that bottom-end power and shoot for something with solid mid-range and top-end.

The proper intake manifold will be critical in determining your power curve.

 

"if" you go with a supercharger, consider the following:

centrifugal supercharger (Vortech, Procharger, Novi) are going to be just about a waste of time for your low-end use... although is setup with a TPI type intake manifold "could" give you the best of both worlds (good bottom-end and good top-end).

positive displacement (roots style-eaton) will give you tree stump pullin' torque, but will run out of steam on the top-end (think along the lines of an MP112 or MP122 head unit). These superchargers will actually support some top-end pulls, but heat soak is an issue.

Whipple/Kenne-bell (screw type blower), not a bad compromise between the above two. Although pretty expensive.

No matter how you look at it, you're going to need MORE supporting mods with a Boosted applcation (correct tune, intercooling, fuel, etc.).

With any boosted application, the combination is some-what inconsistent (based on altitude, temp, barimetric pressure, etc).

you want consistency? Go NA,.

 

Boost would be nice but he is right thats atleast another 4grand and the way the supercharger would sit wouldnt work with my engine bay anyway. Even if i got low 400hp I would be happy. Its a blast with 200hp and 300ftlb which i dynoed with bolt ons on a dynomax dyno. But of course i want more.

 

That's a nice ride. The Corvette superchargers application superchargers for your TPI setup sit on the driver's side and it rotates the alternator around so the ***-end of the alternator is facing the radiator. this makes room to run the pulley.

It looks like you've got some shorty headers, I've say do some simple (tried and true) mods first and see how you like it....

cam
roller rockers
ported runners
ported plenums (upper/lower)

Final drive gears are STILL a great bang for the buck

if that doesn't satisfy you,

go with heads (A good set, don't cut corners on heads dude)
bottom-end

 

Ughhh, I don't get the neah-sayers.

The link posted by the OP shows a 458hp/525tq build with a small 212/218 cam. And, it has less than .500" lift. The heads are extrude honed 113s too. Of course, it's a 383 with headers/exhaust too.

Build a 383 with AFR 195's and an LPE 219 cam. I don't know if/how much that FAST EFI system adds, but unless it's alot, I don't see how you wouldn't surpase the numbers in the article. And, it would idle/smell just fine.

The smaller 219 cam gets your low-end torque. The 20cfm HIGHER flow of the 195's (vs the heads in the article), combined with more lift and duration should get all the HP you want too.

With your goals, that's EXACTLY what I'd do.

 

Pete where did you buy your lifters at for $325?

 

I think the company was called Competition Products. I will dig up the receipt.

 

alright thanks guys

 

so how many cc afr heads should i get?

What comp cam should i go with?

 

the 195's seem to be the head of choice. they are a good compromise between retaining bottom-end and top-end. The eliminator series is what I'm talkin' about here.

AFR is a supporting vendor here. I believe Tony is the name of the rep. you want to talk to him for a cam suggestion. this relationship is CRITICAL to get the desired results. So, unless you're a serious expert of cams and their relationship to a certain casting (Heads) I would ask the experts.

Lloyd Elliot is another supporting vendor that can steer you in the right direction. I'm sure other members will chime in.

 

mine is

The 383 give you almost the same stroke as a big block, hence much more torque. Why build a 355 that is happiest revving high, when you want the grunt down low?

Blown motors are okay but more complex and harder to get to run properly. I went old school, NA and love it. 500+/550+ on pump gas; hell, it even ran okay on crappy Calif. regular when the enroute station had no premium. The engine idles at 900+/-; pulls hard from 1500 to fuel shutoff at 6300. Granted, the ECM makes the magic happen better than a carburetor can.

What's NOT to love? BTW, that smell is liquified 335s!