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I have a 396 stroker LT4 in a '96. 4 years ago, I was scheduled for surgery that I expected to bounce back from. I filled the tank in the Vette and parked it in the storage unit.
I didn't "bounce back" as I hoped, and the car hasn't been touched in these 4 years.
I'd like to get it home, and get out of the storage fees. I'm up to some limited work, and want to get the car up and running to see what it needs.
I'd like to ask for some advice on a procedure to get it running, and have a few questions..
Any chance the seals will soften up, or should I expect major leaks in every part of the driveline?
I don't know how I'd dispose of a full tank of gas...possible I can run what's in there through?
Any easy way to prime the oiling system w/these motors?
Any advice is apprciated, and it's nice to meet everyone.
At the minunium before you even switch the key, gas should be changed, all fluids changed, along with prepriming the oil system ( with new oil of course). should be done, I know, not what you wanted to hear, but it is the truth. I know, I heard 3 months is the shelf life of the new " reformulated" fuel. this is just the tip of the iceburg, as all maintanence needs to been done fresh.
To prime the engine: Remove the spark plugs & put oil in the cylinders using a pump style oil can. A half dozen pumps will suffice. Leave the spark plugs out.
Change the oil & filter. Fill the new filter with fresh oil on the work bench before installation. Spin the engine with the starter until pressure registers on the gauge then install the plugs.
how to get 16 gallons of gas out of the car safely and dispose
You can use a fluid transfer hand pump like this. Comes with plenty of hose length. Got mine at Wal-Mart for like $6 dollars or something. As long as your catch container is lower than the level of the fuel tank, you won't have to keep pumping by hand the whole time. A few quick pump and the gas will continue to empty itself all the way automatically till the fuel tank reaches bottom, again as long as your catch container is lower than the level of the gas tank being emptied.
Depending on what you use to catch the fuel, about the only thing you might need to do it jack the rear of the car up higher.
Thanks very much for all the replies. After some thought, I answered my own question about the gas and fluids...mechanical and body shops alike use 55 gallon drums w/pumps to drain fuel tanks, and they have haz mat disposal accounts to get rid of the stuff. (I don't have a lawnmower) While there, they could do all the rest of the fluid changes. I'll have to pay two tow bills, but there's a shop between the storage facility and my house, so it shouldn't be bad. I know that getting this thing running again won't be free.
I was hoping there was a way to prime the oiling system to get the oil through the journals, etc, like we used to do with a drill and old oil pump shaft, but guess not. Hate to spin that crank on dry bearings, but using your suggestions should minimize the length of time that occurs.
I'll be imposing on you guys with lots more questions; there's other aspects of the car I want to address once I assess the general condition.. I'll post those in seperate threads.
"I was hoping there was a way to prime the oiling system to get the oil through the journals, etc, like we used to do with a drill and old oil pump shaft, but guess not. Hate to spin that crank on dry bearings, but using your suggestions should minimize the length of time that occurs."
Another suggestion: Fill the engine with enough oil to submerge the crank in oil. Rotate the crank so all the rod ends get oiled. Drain & refill with the required amount.
To prime the engine: Remove the spark plugs & put oil in the cylinders using a pump style oil can. A half dozen pumps will suffice. Leave the spark plugs out.
Change the oil & filter. Fill the new filter with fresh oil on the work bench before installation. Spin the engine with the starter until pressure registers on the gauge then install the plugs.