C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

cold start alternitive

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Old Dec 1, 2009 | 04:54 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by SCCA VETTE
He is getting 0 fuel press on key up. He is only getting fuel press when it cranks and builds oil pressure. This is a sign the relay IS bad. I have had the same problem on MANY GM cars. With the key on and not running the pump should run for a few seconds to prime the system so it will start within a few cranks. If he has a leakdown that is a complete different problem unless the leakdown is enough so it will not even build press. If this were the case the car would never run.
OP sez warm starts are good...warm oil would have less viscosity and need longer crank to build press/trip oil press bypass sw.
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Old Dec 1, 2009 | 05:21 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by redrose
OP sez warm starts are good...warm oil would have less viscosity and need longer crank to build press/trip oil press bypass sw.
UHH I will have to disagree! A oil pump will pump warm oil faster than cold oil. This would be compared to tring to suck a milkshake through a straw compared to a coke. It will take longer for the shake to hit your mouth because it is thicker.

The reason it starts easy when warm is because the motor has already been running and there is press in the fuel rail (another reason I believe he does not have a bleed off problem) allowing the car to start faster and not have to wait on oil switch for fuel presure.
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Old Dec 2, 2009 | 02:19 PM
  #23  
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Not too long ago I was having longer than normal cranking to startup. I checked all of the usual thing fuel pressure at ignition on and all the rest discussed in this thread. Then I thought to check the supply voltage to the ignition system during the cranking sequence. I found 9.25 volts. So I started to ohm the circuits for draw. I could not fing anything. Then I decided to pull the battery to check the jumper post fusible links individually. When I pulled the positive battery cable I found it very corroded. I cleaned it, put everything back together and the engine fired right up.
I would advise running this test to see what the voltage is as the power transistor needs about 2 to 3 amperes to switch current to the coil and that is if the ignition control module is factory. If the ignition control module is a high performance model it could be requiring as much as 4 amperes to switch current to the coil.

Gary
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Old Mar 19, 2010 | 09:48 PM
  #24  
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still taking longer than it should but the problem seems to be slightly better, only 3-5 cranks now to get it to start. have replaced fuel filter, fuel pressure relay, replaced a vac line from the regulator to the intake, tps sensor and cleaned the battery terminals. Over night the pressure will drop to zero The manual says to unplug the ecm so it will pick up the changes made to the spark timing, but I can not figure out how to do this when the car does will not start with the ecm unplugged, am I going about this the wrong way?
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