C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

cold start alternitive

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Old Nov 24, 2009 | 09:56 PM
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Default cold start alternitive

I put new runners on my car that don't have a place for the cold start injector. Is there any alternative for getting it to start easier besides switching the runners back out? Would getting a chip from PCM for less and telling them I no longer have it help me at all?
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Old Nov 24, 2009 | 11:08 PM
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I can't see how a chip would help. It it hard to start in cold weather or all the time?
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Old Nov 25, 2009 | 12:35 AM
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My SuperRam runners do not have a cold start injector hole. It takes a crank or two longer to start, but it should not be a problem. I have been running this for about 3 years.

You could modify the chip to add a little extra fuel at start up, but it is probably not worth the money to have done.
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Old Nov 25, 2009 | 01:06 AM
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You dont need it! Chances are it does not work anyways, most of them do not work and people never know it. When I still had the 9th in mine it always started fine and i found out when I removed it that it had not been working for some time.
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Old Nov 25, 2009 | 08:37 AM
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Originally Posted by John A. Marker
My SuperRam runners do not have a cold start injector hole. It takes a crank or two longer to start, but it should not be a problem. I have been running this for about 3 years.

You could modify the chip to add a little extra fuel at start up, but it is probably not worth the money to have done.
Took 2 seconds to start with stock Prom, took 1 second with custom PROM. Is one second worth it ??
If the rest of my motor was stock, I wouldn't have bothered with a custom PROM.
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Old Nov 25, 2009 | 08:58 AM
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On my 86 I was having some issues with the cold start valve. I had pcmforless burn me a chip that doesn't use it. The car starts better when cold or hot. I don't know what they changed but it was worth it. Oh, I didn't have big starting issues. Just turned over for several seconds before starting. Now it starts right away.
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Old Nov 25, 2009 | 12:08 PM
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right now when i try to start the car cold it takes 30 seconds or more and repeated times turning the ignition, pumping gas and praying. On a warm start it starts up just fine, I didnt have this problem before switching runners and deleting the cold start. Do you think there is another issue causing it not to start cold besides the cold start injector?
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Old Nov 25, 2009 | 12:50 PM
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Why not ask PCMforless? BTW, pumping the gas doesn't help.
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Old Nov 25, 2009 | 03:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Muffin
Why not ask PCMforless? BTW, pumping the gas doesn't help.
i've heard that it doesn't help. whenever i go to start the car it feels like pumping is helping to start though, maybe its just psychological or something.
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Old Nov 25, 2009 | 04:06 PM
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Originally Posted by blakngold4life
right now when i try to start the car cold it takes 30 seconds or more and repeated times turning the ignition, pumping gas and praying. On a warm start it starts up just fine, I didnt have this problem before switching runners and deleting the cold start. Do you think there is another issue causing it not to start cold besides the cold start injector?
Put a fuel gauge on it and see if you are getting pressure with key on or only when it is cranking. Sounds like it is not priming the rails on key up.
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Old Nov 25, 2009 | 10:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Muffin
Why not ask PCMforless? BTW, pumping the gas doesn't help.
Damn! beat me to it
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Old Nov 25, 2009 | 10:54 PM
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What kind of runners did you use? BTW, if you use a chip out of an 89, it eliminates the cold start injector and reprograms the injectors to give more fuel when cold.
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Old Nov 25, 2009 | 11:31 PM
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30 seconds is way too long. You'll go through a starter every oil change. I agree with above, check your fuel pressure. If you have adequate pressure, get chip to give you extra fuel without the 9th injector.
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Old Dec 1, 2009 | 08:56 AM
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Originally Posted by SCCA VETTE
Put a fuel gauge on it and see if you are getting pressure with key on or only when it is cranking. Sounds like it is not priming the rails on key up.
I put a gauge on it this weekend, Did not have pressure when I first started cranking it but it started to build up while i was doing so, after it started and we shut the car off it kept pressure for the rest of the day. any ideas on if there is another problem and what the solution may be?
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Old Dec 1, 2009 | 02:38 PM
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Originally Posted by blakngold4life
I put a gauge on it this weekend, Did not have pressure when I first started cranking it but it started to build up while i was doing so, after it started and we shut the car off it kept pressure for the rest of the day. any ideas on if there is another problem and what the solution may be?
This is the reason why it cranks so long. DO you have a service manual for the car? You need to locate the fuel pump relays.
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Old Dec 1, 2009 | 02:43 PM
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Originally Posted by SCCA VETTE
This is the reason why it cranks so long. DO you have a service manual for the car? You need to locate the fuel pump relays.
Yes I do have a manual, I will check the relays. Also, i know the timing is not quite right yet, how big of a role would that play in it?
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Old Dec 1, 2009 | 04:10 PM
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Originally Posted by blakngold4life
I put a gauge on it this weekend, Did not have pressure when I first started cranking it but it started to build up while i was doing so, after it started and we shut the car off it kept pressure for the rest of the day. any ideas on if there is another problem and what the solution may be?
how long did it sit prior to test ?...after 12 hr sit it should still show 10 psi or you have something leaking, pulsator (inside fuel tank), pressure reg diaphram (pull vac hose and smell for gas, should be none), fuel filter (alum filter bodies are paper-thin and corrosion pinholes occur over time), injector slow leak, etc...after a week most will drop to 0...how long was 'rest of day'?

pedal down while cranking tells ecm the driver thinks the engine is 'flooded' and ecm turns off injectors...rapid enuf pedal pump may be interpreted by ecm as 'pedal down"...a slow leaking injector 'might' flood the engine, hence your 'pedal pump' may be effective...rare but has happened.

chip from an 89 good as stated above.

relay not likely perp.

spark timing error may extend cranking time, esp if retarded.

btw, 'instant start' kills your engine bearings...better for your wallet (not for shop's) if the engine cranks for a few before firing off.

Last edited by redrose; Dec 1, 2009 at 04:19 PM.
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To cold start alternitive

Old Dec 1, 2009 | 04:18 PM
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Originally Posted by redrose
how long did it sit prior to test ?...after 12 hr sit it should still show 10 psi or you have something leaking, pulsator (inside fuel tank), pressure reg diaphram (pull vac hose and smell for gas, should be none), fuel filter (alum filter bodies are paper-thin and corrosion pinholes occur over time), injector slow leak, etc...after a week most will drop to 0...how long was 'rest of day'?

pedal down while cranking tells ecm the driver thinks the engine is 'flooded' and ecm turns off injectors...rapid enuf pedal pump may be interpreted by ecm as 'pedal down"...a slow leaking injector 'might' flood the engine, hence your 'pedal pump' may be effective...rare but has happened.

chip from an 89 good as stated above.

relay not likely perp.

spark timing error may extend cranking time, esp if retarded.
Rest of the day, probably was 8-12 hours later. The car does sit for weeks between starts, but after a week it wasn't this hard to start before we changed the runners. Everything from the base manifold up came off while doing this if that can give you any lead to where a problem might be.
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Old Dec 1, 2009 | 04:29 PM
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Originally Posted by blakngold4life
after a week it wasn't this hard to start before we changed the runners. Everything from the base manifold up came off
aha, new info...possible vacuum leak (gaskets, bolt tighten sequence /torque), if fuel pressure holds 10 psi+
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Old Dec 1, 2009 | 04:35 PM
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Originally Posted by redrose
how long did it sit prior to test ?...after 12 hr sit it should still show 10 psi or you have something leaking, pulsator (inside fuel tank), pressure reg diaphram (pull vac hose and smell for gas, should be none), fuel filter (alum filter bodies are paper-thin and corrosion pinholes occur over time), injector slow leak, etc...after a week most will drop to 0...how long was 'rest of day'?

pedal down while cranking tells ecm the driver thinks the engine is 'flooded' and ecm turns off injectors...rapid enuf pedal pump may be interpreted by ecm as 'pedal down"...a slow leaking injector 'might' flood the engine, hence your 'pedal pump' may be effective...rare but has happened.

chip from an 89 good as stated above.

relay not likely perp.

spark timing error may extend cranking time, esp if retarded.

btw, 'instant start' kills your engine bearings...better for your wallet (not for shop's) if the engine cranks for a few before firing off.
He is getting 0 fuel press on key up. He is only getting fuel press when it cranks and builds oil pressure. This is a sign the relay IS bad. I have had the same problem on MANY GM cars. With the key on and not running the pump should run for a few seconds to prime the system so it will start within a few cranks. If he has a leakdown that is a complete different problem unless the leakdown is enough so it will not even build press. If this were the case the car would never run.
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