Modified TPI, Stall Converter ?
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Racer
Joined: Aug 2007
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From: DRAYTON VALLEY ALBERTA
Modified TPI, Stall Converter ?
I have a FIRST intake, Comp cam, trick flow heads, 1.6rr, 10.5:1 compression, full exhaust. Is a 2400 stall to high for what I have. I have the stock 1550 stall right now, of course it stalls a little higher now with more power, but should I go with a 2000 stall or 2400? What is the general opinion. And these ratings from B and M, and TCI, how are they calculated. I am told my stock 1550 should be more like 1800-1850 with the increase in power, how do I know for sure which one to go with?
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Racer
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I have been told you want your stall about 800 rpm below where your peak torque is. I ran a 2400 stall for years with my TPI. I'm sure it would be fine for your car. You need to get the car on a chasis dyno to really fined out what your motor is doing. Otherwise it is an educated guess.
Racer
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From: van buren ar
then a 2400 stall would probally be to high imo.the reason i say that is because if your driving down the highway below the rpm of your stall your gonna build alot of heat and it could smoke your tranny.converters can be "loose"or "tight".in the most extream situation a loose converter will hardly move the car until it reaches its stall speed.a tight converter my work more like a stock converter,but when you hold the brake and gas it then it comes up on its stall.a loose converter is what i like personally,but for most a daily drivers tighter is the way,it will build less heat and work better on the highway.
Race Director
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then a 2400 stall would probally be to high imo.the reason i say that is because if your driving down the highway below the rpm of your stall your gonna build alot of heat and it could smoke your tranny.converters can be "loose"or "tight".in the most extream situation a loose converter will hardly move the car until it reaches its stall speed.a tight converter my work more like a stock converter,but when you hold the brake and gas it then it comes up on its stall.a loose converter is what i like personally,but for most a daily drivers tighter is the way,it will build less heat and work better on the highway.
Regardless of stall speed, when a lock up style converter "locks up" there is zero slippage, and almost zero heat created.
Even if running a 4500 stall converter, it will behave exactly like stock, once it locks up.
Stall speed is when the impeller is near 1:1 with the fixed fins inside.
A properly built 2400 converter is very efficient. A 9.5 incher will behave like stock.
There are many ways to achieve a higher stall. The easiest is to build a ton of endplay into the converter. This is dead wrong, but it is how sloppy, slushy, crappy converters are set up and sold.
The proper way is by matching the components inside.
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From: Phila., PA burbs
I'm not an expert by any means, but IMO you would be fine with a 2400 stall TC. You have way more mods than my L98 and mine seems to perform pretty well with a 2500 stall. I have 3.33 gears as well. I usually see low 1.7x 60's at the track, but have gone as low as 1.63 in great weather. I've had this set-up for five+ years and have had no trans problems. I'm probably gonna go with a 3000 stall TC when the heads/cam go in. 
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Racer
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From: DRAYTON VALLEY ALBERTA
Ok I can get a B&M 70419 for 304.63 Canadian$$$. This is a 2400, Furnace Brazed, Lock Up, unit. The only thing it doesnt have is the Anti-Balooning plate. What do you think? I like using Summit Racing online to find parts and if I start with Torque Converter selection, then start clicking the selections I want: Furnace Brazed, Lock up, 700R4, and then I select Anti-Balooning Plate, the lowest stall I can get is a 3600 RPM. If I take the Anti-Balooning selection off I get my choices of lower stall. I guess I have bo choice then!!!
Last edited by 87stocker; Nov 26, 2009 at 05:08 PM.
Drifting
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From: Citrus Heights California
I have a basically stock L98 with a few bolt ons. Superam, 1.6 rrs, 2 1/2" dual exhaust. I'm running 3.07 gears with a 2400 9 1/2" Vigilante TC. Stock gears were 2.59. The new gears and TC made a huge improvement in performance. I luv it. I had a tranny cooler installed too.
Last edited by Kool88vette; Nov 26, 2009 at 07:13 PM.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Aug 2007
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From: DRAYTON VALLEY ALBERTA
Where do I find these Vigilant Converters. I googled it and could not find anything. Also I find lots of 12" converters is there any benifit to a 9.5"
Also this is something interesting I found off the B and M site:
Stall speed listings are based on engines producing 230lb. ft. of torque at 2,500 rpm. More torque at 2,500 rpm will give you more stall speed, less torque at 2,500 rpm will give you less stall speed than the stall speed ratings indicated.
I know mine is making quite a bit more than 230 ftlbs at 2500 RPM, as most modified TPI cars are. And from what I have read from the posts, the advertised stall speed of 2400 RPM is working for most. But basicly then if I put one of these advertised 2400 RPM stall converters in "my car" that produces near diesel torque, I will probably have more like a 2800-3000 stall. Is this somthing I should keep in mind and maybe buy a advertised 2000 stall. I wish I could post my dyno graph on here but basicly it makes in upwards of 500 ftlbs at 2500 RPM. What do you think?
Also this is something interesting I found off the B and M site:
Stall speed listings are based on engines producing 230lb. ft. of torque at 2,500 rpm. More torque at 2,500 rpm will give you more stall speed, less torque at 2,500 rpm will give you less stall speed than the stall speed ratings indicated.
I know mine is making quite a bit more than 230 ftlbs at 2500 RPM, as most modified TPI cars are. And from what I have read from the posts, the advertised stall speed of 2400 RPM is working for most. But basicly then if I put one of these advertised 2400 RPM stall converters in "my car" that produces near diesel torque, I will probably have more like a 2800-3000 stall. Is this somthing I should keep in mind and maybe buy a advertised 2000 stall. I wish I could post my dyno graph on here but basicly it makes in upwards of 500 ftlbs at 2500 RPM. What do you think?
Last edited by 87stocker; Nov 27, 2009 at 01:39 AM.
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From: Phila., PA burbs
Racer
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From: Casa Grande Az
Ok I can get a B&M 70419 for 304.63 Canadian$$$. This is a 2400, Furnace Brazed, Lock Up, unit. The only thing it doesnt have is the Anti-Balooning plate. What do you think? I like using Summit Racing online to find parts and if I start with Torque Converter selection, then start clicking the selections I want: Furnace Brazed, Lock up, 700R4, and then I select Anti-Balooning Plate, the lowest stall I can get is a 3600 RPM. If I take the Anti-Balooning selection off I get my choices of lower stall. I guess I have bo choice then!!!
I think you should send PeteK a PM and see what he can do for you. He has sold many of us here (including me) nice custom TCs.
In addition to that , even if you don't go through Pete, I have always heard not so good things about the B&M and TCI converters. You may want to look more towards the Vigilante stuff for the extra money.
Last edited by 92ZR1WANNABE; Nov 27, 2009 at 11:21 AM.
Racer
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From: van buren ar
None of the above it true, and I normally don't make a post to contradict someone.
Regardless of stall speed, when a lock up style converter "locks up" there is zero slippage, and almost zero heat created.
Even if running a 4500 stall converter, it will behave exactly like stock, once it locks up.
Stall speed is when the impeller is near 1:1 with the fixed fins inside.
A properly built 2400 converter is very efficient. A 9.5 incher will behave like stock.
There are many ways to achieve a higher stall. The easiest is to build a ton of endplay into the converter. This is dead wrong, but it is how sloppy, slushy, crappy converters are set up and sold.
The proper way is by matching the components inside.
Regardless of stall speed, when a lock up style converter "locks up" there is zero slippage, and almost zero heat created.
Even if running a 4500 stall converter, it will behave exactly like stock, once it locks up.
Stall speed is when the impeller is near 1:1 with the fixed fins inside.
A properly built 2400 converter is very efficient. A 9.5 incher will behave like stock.
There are many ways to achieve a higher stall. The easiest is to build a ton of endplay into the converter. This is dead wrong, but it is how sloppy, slushy, crappy converters are set up and sold.
The proper way is by matching the components inside.
Race Director
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 12,518
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Torque converters are very complex, for something that is so mechanically simple (only a couple of moving parts). They are also one of the hardest to understand components in a car, especially when modified.
The more efficient a converter is, the more drivable they are at a given stall. In other words, I have seen 2000 stall converters be a slushy mess, and make a ton of heat, but I have seen 3800 stall converters feel near stock, and generate very little heat.
Like any part of the automotive market, there are alot of crap converters out there, and alot of good too.
Converter manufacturers are like engine builders or trans builders. When you find a good one, hang on to him.
