Based on your description of not being real happy with the power delivery characteristics of the LS2/3, I would use the SLP. It best matches what you want the car to do. Pick the cam to match the powerband of the SLP and I'm sure you won't be disappointed with the torque. With 315 rear tires, you shouldn't have any problem with traction rolling into the throttle in 2nd.

 

You cant have too much torque available because there is a torque management unit built into the end of your right leg....
Roy

 

Have to follow up on this thread.

Turns out I'm gonna have enough torque! LOL



Talk about having a car that'll flat get up and shoot down the street! This one will. I only have 150 miles on it so far. As such, I only have a few WOT spurts. Even then those bursts have been progressive pressing of the GO pedal vs an outright stab. Even sneaking up on WOT, torque is funtastic.

The one hwy ramp run where I got really close to an outright stab made it feel like I probably will have too much torque in the lower two gears. Unless I'm careful that is. By contrast, a 2-second burst in 1st, 2nd, or 3rd will win pretty much any street-positioning-contest I could even get in. IOW, the race should be over QUICKLY.

Now, I don't drive to race -- even on the street, I'm just saying I'm likely to be happy with the polished torque-out-the-azz setup I was talking about in this thread. It's the intake I showed everyone pictures of in the "It's AHH-LIVE!" thread recently.

To those who voted for the HSR,,,I can also see where it might not be much less (if any) disappointing than the SLP I installed. With the SLP intake, I was worried about hooking. With the HSR intake, I'd be worried about rediculous speeding tickets. By the time redline hits, I'd be WAY over speed limits. So, if I ran it until an HSR runs out of breath,,,I'd be worried about how many mph over the speed-limit I'd be!!! (IOW, that's why I might stick with the SLP intake -- even though it's got too much torque.)

 

This is too much torque:

 

Damn. Is that a U-joint/output shaft assembly that got shredded?

 

Cool!!
Break that puppy in an get us that long overdue burnout video.

 

Glad you like the intake setup Gregg. With siamesed TPI you cant go wrong. It can be custom taylored to act like a superam with rpm ranges between TPI and HSR or siamese all of it and act like a miniram/single plane EFI. Either way torque will be made through out the rpm range, while TPI does have a lot of peak torque and strong lower end torque but nothing after peak.

 

Yep. That halfshaft broke off at both ends and became lodged in the undercarriage fiberglas behind my backbone!

From the time I had the 383 engine put into the car, it has done over $8,000 of damage to the drive train. I've had to replace the left halfshaft twice, the left spindle gear, the innards of the Dana 44, and two transmission rebuilds! . On the other hand, it does a quarter mile in the high 11's, gets 60 foot times in the 1.5's, and goes zero to sixty in the 3's. Ya gotta pay to play.

 

not.

properly designed commercial material handling systems (conveyors) ALWAYS have 'slip-clutch' in the power train to prevent prevent the system from ripping itself apart in the event that a 'blockage' occurs somewhere...your car, if properly designed (at this point, by YOU, since you've chosen to alter it from the oem build with sticky tires/airfoil/etc) should also have a 'torque limiting device' that will not permit the drive train to self-destruct.

tires are the simplest 'torque limiter' available... will require an operator with sufficient ability/intelligence to maintain vehicle control during wheelspin events, or to sense/avoid loss of traction before that becomes problematic.

 

Torque is also known as moment of force. If you have the right combination then you can have almost as much torque as you want.

After driving my friends TT C5 (700rwtq) last year to Bowling Green my motor at the time (340rwtq) seemed like childs play. I am very happy that I upped the cubes from my original plan of a 383.

I am glad you are happy with your combination because that is what counts.

 

Interesting point, but not necessarily apropos. First of all, to achieve reliable quarter mile times (consistent run-to-run times to within a hundredth of a second or so) requires that there be absolutely NO wheelspin. By using drag radials, properly adjusting the tire pressure, doing a burnout, and going on a track that's properly prepared with VHT compound, the tires don't spin at all, even with that 383 torque monster. The proper setup is to have the engine torque matched to the strength of the bottom end. In my case, quite obviously the engine overpowered the remainder of the drivetrain. My personal solution to this mismatch has been to break the weakest parts, replace them with stronger parts, and repeat as necessary until the whole system can withstand the torque. It may not be the cleanest way to do it, but it sure brings a modicum of excitement every time I launch. Allowing for slippage may save the wallet, but it's a losing strategy for bracket racing.

 

Wallet eventually becomes a torque limiter, its my weakest link.

 

old racer's maxim: before you can finish first you first must finish...even c4's are subject to this.

 

Never heard that before. I like it

 

What did your rear wheel horsepower & torque numbers turn out to be?What you think it'd do in the quarter-mile?

 

I'm just now settling on a tune. IOW, for driveability. Not sure when I'll get to the dyno...kinda want the heat to break. I have BLMs close to 128 and open loop running well. I had to lean it out (globally) about 5%. Adjustments to the timing table really helped too. Wish it would idle better though....Guess a small cam with lots of lift just won't get that smooth. (e.g., SR-like cam)

Hard to say what it would do in the 1/4. The 6-spd might slow me down (since I don't necessary want to slam the gears). I just know it pulls REALLY hard and runs more like a track car than a factory car.

Around town, it pulls like it's boosted. Hwy's not too shabby either.

Edit to really answer the point of this thread: The posts by Aurora40 and LT4Bud were pretty accurate predictors of where I've ended up. I haven't even THOUGHT about hammering it in first because smoke/flames would surely be the result. I can be rollling alone and break them loose in 2nd whenever I want. IOW,,,I cannot give it full-throttle in 2nd gear w/o it breaking loose -- even if I'm rolling along and the clutch is fully engaged. 2/3rds - 3/4ths throttle is my limit there.

3rd is stronger than 2nd used to be. 4th is also more fun that 3rd used to be! So, it's hard to call it too much torque. OTOH, it's strong enough that I'm certain damage is possible. I definitely have to be careful about the surfaces I stab it on or the back end would start dribbling like basketballs! And, the back end would shake apart...I'm afraid.

This build was to convert 3rd gear from boring to fun. That's exactly what I accomplished. I actually think I overdid it to a degree. Even with a small 214/214 .544"/.544" (1.6rr) 111LSA cam, I can't get it to idle anywhere near like a stock C6. To get it half-way smooth, I have to set it up to 825 and it's still more noticable than stock cams. OTOH, though 2nd gear has too much power, it's not hard to control with a stick.

FWIW: I'm fairly sure it would break into the 11's with an HSR -- even with this cam. So, balling up some of that power to make more torque should give you a pretty good idea of how strong it feels.

One of these days, I'll get LT4Obssesses over and put him in the car. That way you'll get some feedback from an LT4 owner.

 

Keep playing with it. MAF table 1 and timing helps alot. What rpm you trying to idle at?

 

...completely. Furthermore, if you do end up w/"too much tq", you can always Up shift; or NOT downshift.

I used to have a Trans Am that I auto x'ed a ton. I put a SBC 400 in it, and the combo I had was a tq monster. Unfortunately I never dyno'ed it so I have no hard numbers, but it had more low end tq than my LS2, hands DOWN. Anyway, I had gone form a 350 to the 400 (backed by a BW T5 in both cases) and using the same driving technique, it was absurd on any auto x course. It took me a while, but I finally started getting the car into 3rd gear ASAP in those events, and it made a gigantic difference; I could hook, accelerate from turns, and my placing improved several spots. The car FELT slower, because I wasn't coming out of every turn sideways, tires a-lit and the engien a-roaring....but it was much faster, much smoother, and maintained a higher average speed. If you have too much tq, up shift a gear. That will solve that problem.

EDIT: I think I just typed a now irrelavant post to a very old thread.

 

What kind of tires, and what size, are you running? You might be able to use more of 1st and 2nd with some different tires, or running wider wheels/tires. If you were up for all the engine work, getting some ZR-1 rears in there might be a nice capper.

 

That's what I have. 315/35 Sumi's