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It is not required and many of todays gaskets say install " dry". I've done the pan gasket install both ways but have had the best long term results with the following:
I put a very small/thin amount of the "right stuff" on each piece of gasket where the hardware passes through the gasket and on the transition angles where the rear main seal housing makes the transition to the block. I also do the same thing on the corners where the timing cover begins to extend past the block.
Bring the pan down on the gasket evenly and do not over tighten the hardware during the sequence...use a torque wrench if your not equipped with a highly "calibrated" elbow.
RTV on all ''four corners''...permatex ''ultra grey'' or ''ultra blue''...just a small dab, AT OUTER SIDE OF CORNER (engine failures have been traced to excess RTV 'squeeze *****'' clogging oil passages)
Is RTV sealant required on the gasket when I install a new oil pan?
I plan on doing this job as well, I would like to know how you keep the gasket in place while installing the pan. That is of course if your doing this from underneath
I always used a little here and there...slipped the bolts through the holes until it dried. Then it's easy to install without have the gasket move around on you.
I plan on doing this job as well, I would like to know how you keep the gasket in place while installing the pan. That is of course if your doing this from underneath
Fel-Pro one piece gasket comes with little nylon(?) studs that help hold it in place until you start all the bolts. Those plus a smack of RTV in the corners works.
Fel-Pro one piece gasket comes with little nylon(?) studs that help hold it in place until you start all the bolts. Those plus a smack of RTV in the corners works.