C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Coolant Temperature

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Old Dec 9, 2009 | 02:45 PM
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Default Coolant Temperature

I know this has been discussed, and I've spent time in the search mode, but I subscribe to the KISS principle & really would appreciate some simple step-by-step help.

'92 LT1 Analog coolant temperature does not move (remains cold)
Digital coolant temperature reads 207 +/- & fluctuates regularly.

What is not working? & if it is the sender on the right bank of the engine at the back, how the heck do I get to it???

Part numbers or specific technique would really be appreciated.
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Old Dec 9, 2009 | 04:43 PM
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Easy peasy...

It is between and at the same height as spark plugs #4 and #6

This is a pic of an F-Body but the location is the same.



Resistance values at various temps are in the FSM for testing just ohm it and look at the chart.
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Old Dec 9, 2009 | 05:41 PM
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Ground the Sensor Wire and it should peg Max - that will confirm the wiring and display are good. Open, or max resistance is Low/Cold, so make sure it's plugged in.
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Old Dec 10, 2009 | 06:32 AM
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Originally Posted by 94z07fx3
This is a pic of an F-Body but the location is the same.
That would be between # 1 and # 3 plugs
4 and 6 are on pass side
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Old Dec 10, 2009 | 01:25 PM
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Originally Posted by rodj
That would be between # 1 and # 3 plugs
4 and 6 are on pass side
You are right, of course. I believe that on our cars it is on the passenger side though.
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Old Dec 10, 2009 | 02:01 PM
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Originally Posted by 94z07fx3
You are right, of course. I believe that on our cars it is on the passenger side though.
LOL, that's what you get for posting upside down pics!!

I don't know if it is upside down or not....but it's funnier to think of that way.
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Old Dec 10, 2009 | 10:52 PM
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On my '95 LT1 it's between 6 and 8 on the passenger side. I can post a pic if ya'll want

Last edited by twcz71; Dec 10, 2009 at 10:55 PM.
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Old Dec 11, 2009 | 11:22 AM
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TWCZ71 - A picture is worth a thousand words & better if applies to '92 +/-.
I looked at the pic posted & figured I was just not getting it. Glad it wasn't only me.
If it's the sensor on the passenger side between the last two spark plugs nearest the firewall, that's a real pain to get to.

Probably easiest to ground the wire at the sensor, I assume with the key on? This isn't going to mess things up worse is it?

Thanks for the feedback.

One last clarification please: Does the digital temperature gauge read from a different sensor? Because it DOES work!
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Old Dec 11, 2009 | 12:14 PM
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Sensor is a thermistor meaning that the hotter it gets, the less resistance so more of the signal voltage - from the dash - reaches ground. That voltage drop is proportional to temp. Open or full voltage at the gage is cold. No voltage - or signal to ground - is max. Testing it doesn't harm anything. In fact, if it isn't plugged in, you all ready know those results. And yes, start by unplugging/grounding at the Sensor so that you can rule-out wiring and the cluster.
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Old Dec 11, 2009 | 12:18 PM
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Another case of where GM did 'F' body and "Y" body cars differently.

LT1 Vettes have two.

One's in the front of Water Pump which is the digital sender and is also the one the PCM uses.

The other one is for the analog gauge and is in the passenger side head back toward the rear of the head between 6 and 8. It's relatively easy to access; I changed to a new on my son's 96 a few months ago.

The head hole in the driver's side head, toward the front (1/3) takes a pipe plug; nothing, other than the plug, installs there.

I just looked at his stock LT1 heads sitting beside my fireplace (the ones I removed when I installed his new Darts) just to be sure there'd be no confusion here.

Word of caution: Be very careful when changing the one in the Water Pump; the idler pulley can hit it when relieving the pulley's spring pressure and it'll break the sender.

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